T1R Turbo (Dyno'ed on pg.12) May 1st 2007

[03DSM-RSX]

Originally Posted by damnu

oil return on a SR20 goes into the block, so NOT ALL oil returns are tapped to the pan.

SR20DET's are boosted stock, hence factory setups are different from aftermarket. I guess i have to edit to where "aftermarket turbo setups are returned to the pan"

[quangalang]

My 2 cents: Since the L15's oil pan is aluminum i would assume that it is thick enough to be drilled and tapped then screw in a AN fitting, unlike the B-series motors where the oil pan was just thin steel. i don't see a point in the need to weld an oil return fitting on the oil pan welding cast aluminum isnt that easy let alone one saturated with oil.... idk im just throwing it out there. hehe

[TomiGunz]

Originally Posted by quangalang

My 2 cents: Since the L15's oil pan is aluminum i would assume that it is thick enough to be drilled and tapped then screw in a AN fitting, unlike the B-series motors where the oil pan was just thin steel. i don't see a point in the need to weld an oil return fitting on the oil pan welding cast aluminum isnt that easy let alone one saturated with oil.... idk im just throwing it out there. hehe

Kind of what I was thinking. If a oil filter can let oil pass through it without leaking I'm sure a fitting will work just fine.

But as 03DSM-RSX says, "it's better to weld". Most shops charge about $20 bucks to do.

I would do either way since it's just a oil dump line.

03DSM-RSX, I'm not sure who would put a banjo style connector on the oil pan side of the oil line, so I think you were probably thinking of the wrong type of connector. Just a straight connector to the oil pan so the oil can dump into the pan would be just fine.. this is what I believe..

[jits14]

Originally Posted by TomiGunz

Kind of what I was thinking. If a oil filter can let oil pass through it without leaking I'm sure a fitting will work just fine.

But as 03DSM-RSX says, "it's better to weld". Most shops charge about $20 bucks to do.

I would do either way since it's just a oil dump line.

03DSM-RSX, I'm not sure who would put a banjo style connector on the oil pan side of the oil line, so I think you were probably thinking of the wrong type of connector. Just a straight connector to the oil pan so the oil can dump into the pan would be just fine.. this is what I believe..

When you look at Tig welding aluminum, it aint gonna be cheap. Plus you will have to find an aluminum connector too cause you cant weld aluminum to steel.

[TomiGunz]

I was aware of that. If we did have to weld, I'm sure the T1R kit will come with a connector.

Friend of mine has a R/C boat. The bottom fin on his engine broke. The shop charged him very little to weld that peice back on. Yes it was aluminum.

But I won't say anything more until Ben lets us know what the kit will come with...

[do129]

I got a question for the turbo kit, i live in melbourne australia, and yes of course im really interested with the turbo, after done so much research on turbos, does this turbo kit fit in my jazz? what i meant is my jazz is an australian version, will it perfectly fit in? or i need modified some parts? for example aus jazz brake fluid bottle is located on the left while the us version is on the right will this be a problem on installing the turbo? the piping? and all other stuff? Thx

[03DSM-RSX]

the pan is aluminum, so you'd use an aluminum 10AN male fitting. it'll weld right on.

yes, the aluminum pan is much thicker than the thin steel ones. So welding MIGHT not be needed. But if available then do it.

here are pics of an a2 oil pan, very similar to that of the FIt's pan.

drill and tap for a 1/2 - -10an fitting and screw the bitch in...no welding needed and no nuts in the oil pan...

there is a cap on the fitting b/c the owner does not have the turbo on yet.
you can also see the white teflon tape.


something anyone can do themselves.

as for oil residue on while welding, when you remove the pan, you clean the pan out with brake cleaner. Oil washes right off and pan will be nice n dry.

this is what a banjo return line/fitting looks like. A banjo bolt replaces the stock oil drain bolt and goes into the stock oil drain location, which is at the very bottom of the pan. Not very effecient for turbo oil drainage.


Greddy has used this type of return line on the RSX, not sure about other cars, but this caused a LOT of problems for the users. Most replaced their oil lines with the tap/weld method. Problems included blown oil seals, leaking turbos, oil in charge pipes, excessive oil burn, and even car fires. Greddy's latest turbo kits no longer use the banjo fittings.

[nothx]

Originally Posted by 03DSM-RSX

the pan is aluminum, so you'd use an aluminum 10AN male fitting. it'll weld right on.

yes, the aluminum pan is much thicker than the thin steel ones. So welding MIGHT not be needed. But if available then do it.

here are pics of an a2 oil pan, very similar to that of the FIt's pan.

drill and tap for a 1/2 - -10an fitting and screw the bitch in...no welding needed and no nuts in the oil pan...

there is a cap on the fitting b/c the owner does not have the turbo on yet.
you can also see the white teflon tape.


something anyone can do themselves.

as for oil residue on while welding, when you remove the pan, you clean the pan out with brake cleaner. Oil washes right off and pan will be nice n dry.

this is what a banjo return line/fitting looks like. A banjo bolt replaces the stock oil drain bolt and goes into the stock oil drain location, which is at the very bottom of the pan. Not very effecient for turbo oil drainage.


Greddy has used this type of return line on the RSX, not sure about other cars, but this caused a LOT of problems for the users. Most replaced their oil lines with the tap/weld method. Problems included blown oil seals, leaking turbos, oil in charge pipes, excessive oil burn, and even car fires. Greddy's latest turbo kits no longer use the banjo fittings.

thanks for the info, i can definitely tap a hole for the plug myself, i'd probably buy a new oil pan to do it on so once i had all the parts for the turbo, i could get right to business.

[quangalang]

Another possible problem i see is, since the stock oil pump produces around
70-90 psi, and turbos only need roughly half that(correct me if im wrong), should we have to run an oil pressure regulator or something so it wont leak through the turbo seals and wreck the turbo over time?

[AJ PwR Jr.]

For the oil return line, you will need to take off the oil pan. You will need to drill a hole and bolt the fitting on. It will be different than the Greddy one but something similar.

[damnu]

Yeah i can totally see why the banjo bolts are bad, since the return line is gravity driven, a banjo fitting seems to restrict flow causing all the for mentioned problems.

Originally Posted by quangalang

Another possible problem i see is, since the stock oil pump produces around
70-90 psi, and turbos only need roughly half that(correct me if im wrong), should we have to run an oil pressure regulator or something so it wont leak through the turbo seals and wreck the turbo over time?

Youre suppose to use a restricter on the oil inlet line to restrict flow for the turbo. Depending on the type of turbo, a different size restricter is needed. Ball bearing turbos need less oil flow than journal bearings.

[03DSM-RSX]

^yup. generally, the manufacturer who supplies the turbo kit provides the oil feed line that provides the fine mist of oil the turbo needs. I'm sure AJR will provide everything needed.

If not, Fast-turbo.com specializes in all turbo accessories and lines. they fabricate oil line kits for all types of turbos and cars. you can pretty much get anything you need from them.

[TomiGunz]

Originally Posted by AJ PwR Jr.

For the oil return line, you will need to take off the oil pan. You will need to drill a hole and bolt the fitting on. It will be different than the Greddy one but something similar.

Thanks for the info.. now we'll have someone off our back =)

[firstshadow]

official dynos next week maybe... thats what i heard.

[sLiVeRwOrM]

What happened to the other dynos?!
The first ones were on a mustang dyno so I dunno if they can be fully trusted..

[AJ PwR Jr.]

We are curretnly fixing the boost creep problem and we should be hitting the dyno next week sometime.

[gn-it&rn-it]

will this turbo set-up be compatible with AT Fits??? Suggest tranny upgrades?? and can I add nitrous later down the road???

[dj_buddah]

i am curious ben are you guys going to make turbo exhaust or will the ones you currently have out provide enough back pressure?

also with the kit i am not clear, are you going to provide the Greddy e-manage with this? if so will the seprate greddy boost controller be an option?

[daviddahlb]

Hey Ben,

An important issue is oil starvation during high speed sweepers. Since you have experience with this and the oil pan, do you think it needs baffles added to ensure oil pressure? Because it makes sense to add these baffles when I've got it removed for the oil fittings...

Thanks!

[AJ PwR Jr.]

Originally Posted by gn-it&rn-it

will this turbo set-up be compatible with AT Fits??? Suggest tranny upgrades?? and can I add nitrous later down the road???

This Turbo kit will be competible with AT. Reinforcing the tranny with running low boost is not necessary but it is always good to gave drivetrain components reinforced.

Nitrous is something that i don't recommend. It wears down your engie quickly.

i am curious ben are you guys going to make turbo exhaust or will the ones you currently have out provide enough back pressure?

also with the kit i am not clear, are you going to provide the Greddy e-manage with this? if so will the seprate greddy boost controller be an option?

The T1R 50S will work with this turbo. Actually the 50S sounded a lot quieter comparing to a stock engine. Having a bigger exhaust will make the Turbo spool slower but at the same time you will gain a few more hp,which means the Turbo will lag and we don't want that.

Hey Ben,

An important issue is oil starvation during high speed sweepers. Since you have experience with this and the oil pan, do you think it needs baffles added to ensure oil pressure? Because it makes sense to add these baffles when I've got it removed for the oil fittings...

Thanks!

When I was trying the Fit with stock engine, I don't have any issues with that but ofcourse with more power things will be different.

By looking at the oil pan and the oil pick up, since the oil pan depth is so deep on the Fit and and I don't think there will be any issue about that.