INSTALL HELP: Spoon Engine Torque damper

suketoborudo00 · #1 (**permalink**) 12-04-2008, 11:47 PM

I think I should learn this valuable tip each time I try to install something, but I never stick to it..
"to save many hours from trips to the store, make sure you got the RIGHT tools before you start"
otherwise this kind of stuff happens.. lol

So, to save you guys time if you don't have tools accessible already, this requires a few hand tools:
-screwdriver/pliers (to remove the plastic lock nut holding the plastic molding)
-17mm socket (for the spoon assembly nuts)
-10mm socket (for the top plate bolts)
-14mm deep socket (for the engine mount nut)
- 10" socket extender
- hex wrench #6
-torque wrench (40lbs for the engine nut; 25lbs for the spoon nuts; 10-20lbs for the top plate assembly)

Here is the instructions that made no sense except for the pictures.. but with this great forum and its members, everything was cleared up! Thanks Fitinfit and Ben!

1) this requires the plastic lock nut to be removed to lift the plastic molding upwards for the top plate to be installed. This plastic molding can be trimmed to have a 'cleaner' appearance, this will require extra tools.
The windshield hose will need to be unbolted as well, the other two mounting bolt holes are covered by two black stickers seen in the photo.

tools used:

2)before I install the top plate, I took the advice of fitinfit

and turned the wheel this way to get better reach under the car. it really helped!

3) Looking under the car, the bolts can easily be spotted. the hard part was getting the nut up there without dropping it. Once the nut is screwed on, tighten the bolts to 10-20lbs of torque. (I just tightened as tight as I could because I got the torque wrench after this step)

Top plate installed!! Easy

Not sure if this is a concern, but the top plate seems like it is touching the pipe in the picture. I am thinking the damper is going to move back and forth, but then the steel plate shouldn't be moving which means it wont be moving the pipe too right? I'll periodically check to make sure there isn't any rubbing going on.

4) Installing the lower piece was tricky at first, but it was easier than I expected. The engine mount nut is going to be taken off. No engine support is needed. Here are the tools I used: (make sure you aren't using any small socket adapters like I did or else the first picture posted will occur

)

Once you have the nut removed put the plate on like so..

You can notice the nut is not fully screwed on. I am not sure if this will be a problem, but it did feel pretty secure once I tightened to 40lbs of torque with my new trusty torque wrench.

The most concerning part was probably the lower piece. But it isn't hard at all (a monkey could do it according to some people

).

5) Spoon damper installation. Pretty much bolt on. Unscrew the top piece to lengthen the damper rod to match the two steel plates, then screw on the allen bolts. There is a 17mm lock nut on the lengthening rod that is supposed to be tightened to 25lbs of torque i believe.

6) there is two spoon stickers included, I believe to stick on the damper. I did put on on, but didn't take a picture, maybe I'll take a picture later of the whole engine bay to show matching blue intake and damper

but for now, I will test and report any differences I feel. Hopefully there is a positive difference, so I know I installed it correctly

Quick review: it really dampens!
2008 fit sport AT
The difference is definitely noticeable!
-There is less jerking during shifts when accelerating fast. Especially when shifting at high revs.
-Downshifting has less jerking as well. I tried to downshift at the earliest point to see max jerkiness, the ETD does reduce it significantly!
-no vibrations noticed or increased noise yet.

One potential issue is the lower plate installation.

Fitinfit said I am missing a bolt where the screwdriver points to. PMed Ben about it, hopefully he has the answer.

The bolt seems long enough for just the original mounting plate and the nut to be fully screwed on. The nut was able to screw on about 85-90%. you can compare the two before and after photos above.

fitinfit · #2 (**permalink**) 12-05-2008, 12:59 AM

1. yes the plastic needs to be trimed off.2. turn the wheel fully should help access those holes, but it still was pain in the ass for me...good luck

suketoborudo00 · #3 (**permalink**) 12-05-2008, 01:02 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by fitinfit

1. yes the plastic needs to be trimed off.2. turn the wheel fully should help access those holes, but it still was pain in the ass for me...good luck

Thanks for answering my questions! Should help a bit when attempt tomorrow

kelsodeez · #4 (**permalink**) 12-05-2008, 01:32 AM

take pictures of the brackets and post them. just to make sure you have the brackets made for usdm. the jdm one will not work and you will get frustrated trying to figure out how it bolts up.

suketoborudo00 · #5 (**permalink**) 12-05-2008, 01:47 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by kelsodeez

take pictures of the brackets and post them. just to make sure you have the brackets made for usdm. the jdm one will not work and you will get frustrated trying to figure out how it bolts up.

updated with bracket pictures. I'm pretty sure it's USDM, it says it on the box, and i got it from the AJR christmas special. For the bottom bracket I think I'm holding it the correct way if I was to install it, but I couldn't find the location to bolt it to. It was kind of dark so I'll try and see in the morning

suketoborudo00 · #6 (**permalink**) 12-05-2008, 07:15 PM

Added some more pictures and some questions in first post, but here's the questions in case you miss it..

Questions about bottom piece now..
1) is the bottom piece placed [in the picture below] where it should be installed correct?
2) how come I'm missing a bolt where the flat-head is pointed at?
3) and where can I get it?? was I supposed to have it there in the first place?
4) Do I have to support the engine with a jack before I unbolt (the pointy bolt in the picture)? I don't want the engine falling or anything

kelsodeez · #7 (**permalink**) 12-05-2008, 07:21 PM

i think you might have the jdm piece. the usdm bracket is supposed to bolt onto the engine block and not the engine mount.

suketoborudo00 · #8 (**permalink**) 12-05-2008, 07:35 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by kelsodeez

i think you might have the jdm piece. the usdm bracket is supposed to bolt onto the engine block and not the engine mount.

awe craps.. can u take a picture of your to compare if you have it installed?

im gonna give them a PM about this issue before I install more

kelsodeez · #9 (**permalink**) 12-05-2008, 07:59 PM

i dont have one anymore because it wouldnt fit with my intercooler piping. but when i had one, i never even installed it because i got the jdm piece just like you did.

suketoborudo00 · #10 (**permalink**) 12-05-2008, 08:29 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by kelsodeez

i dont have one anymore because it wouldnt fit with my intercooler piping. but when i had one, i never even installed it because i got the jdm piece just like you did.

Im waiting on some PM responses, but I've been searching to compare product images online. It seems like I have the correct USDM version according to the AJracing website here.

and here's the other version that I could find. this one really looks like the JDM version, because the top piece looks like it is installed for the left side of the car.

I wish the instructions where in English, it probably says what I need to do lol

kelsodeez · #11 (**permalink**) 12-05-2008, 08:36 PM

yea, actually i think im wrong. the bracket in the instructions has two holes on the bottom bigger tab. the one you have only has one. just email ben at aj or call them and they will be able to help you for sure.

trancedsailor · #12 (**permalink**) 12-06-2008, 02:39 AM

damn it looks way more complicated than I thought lol

B1str0 · #13 (**permalink**) 12-06-2008, 02:45 AM

should of got the ingalls imo.. mines went in fine and works great

Sam Misled · #14 (**permalink**) 12-06-2008, 02:54 AM

is this really worth the money? anyone know?

suketoborudo00 · #15 (**permalink**) 12-06-2008, 02:56 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by trancedsailor

damn it looks way more complicated than I thought lol

haha I think it seems that way because the instructions are in Japanese and i don't understand Japanese

once I get some answers from the AJracing team or fitinfit about the lower piece installation, it should clear up all the confusion I'm having

suketoborudo00 · #16 (**permalink**) 12-06-2008, 02:58 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Sam Misled

is this really worth the money? anyone know?

I think only about 4 people on this forum that post about it knows for sure. I will know soon [hopefully] when i finally get this installed.

Sam Misled · #17 (**permalink**) 12-06-2008, 03:00 AM

let me know when you do man. I am very interested in these, and htey look sexxxay! haha

suketoborudo00 · #18 (**permalink**) 12-06-2008, 03:06 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Sam Misled

let me know when you do man. I am very interested in these, and htey look sexxxay! haha

well, I think from the members I have asked about the ETD from both Ingalls and Spoon, they both do the same thing.. so either one you're going to get the same results. Only difference is brand name and look. Which is why I choose Spoon lol, but Ingalls specifically makes these and I was about to buy it too but I didn't because AJR is having a christmas sale for about the same price.

If you are intersted and don't want to wait for my confusion to clear up, get the Ingalls one. Bistro seems to recommend it over Spoon on installation opinion. I think I would have to second that too (for now

)

kylerwho · #19 (**permalink**) 12-06-2008, 03:10 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by suketoborudo00

Lower piece
Questions about bottom piece now..
1) is the bottom piece placed [in the picture below] where it should be installed correct?
2) how come I'm missing a bolt where the flat-head is pointed at?
3) and where can I get it?? was I supposed to have it there in the first place?
4) Do I have to support the engine with a jack before I unbolt (the pointy bolt in the picture)? I don't want the engine falling or anything

5) can you guys give some names for the bolts I speak of too lol

1. the plate looks to be installed in the correct position.
2.the jdm l15 has something else mounted there. i think you should have recieved a bolt with the etd. if not its a 10x1.25 bolt i think. metric of course.
3.i am pretty sure they should have sent one with you but your local hardware store should have metric bolts
4.i would put a small block between the lower cross member and the engine to prevent the engine from moving cause you will have a fun time jacking the engine bak up if it slips out of place.
5.i would say a 10x1.25 hexhead bolt should do it. probably 1.5 inches long.
hope this helps.

suketoborudo00 · #20 (**permalink**) 12-06-2008, 03:14 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by kylerwho

1. the plate looks to be installed in the correct position.
2.the jdm l15 has something else mounted there. i think you should have recieved a bolt with the etd. if not its a 10x1.25 bolt i think. metric of course.
3.i am pretty sure they should have sent one with you but your local hardware store should have metric bolts
4.i would put a small block between the lower cross member and the engine to prevent the engine from moving cause you will have a fun time jacking the engine bak up if it slips out of place.
5.i would say a 10x1.25 hexhead bolt should do it. probably 1.5 inches long.
hope this helps.

YEAHHHH!! I'VE BEEN WAITING FOR SOMEONE TO ANSWER THAT! THANKSSS

So does that mean every other USDM fit has a missing bolt there? (for my question number 2)