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Out of curiosity, what else is wired together with that fuse #8? i'm wondering what else is beign disabled. I can't get any information from Mitchell On Demand so i can't answer that question myself.
You can also disable if you have access to a scan tool. You just have to make your PCM think you are in a country that doesn't require DRL's like Mexico. In fact with the new Honda's you might just be able to disable it manually. Granted pulling the Fuse is pretty easy.
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97 SFGT NA ( 165 whp 159ftlbs to the wheels)
07 Fit Sport 5M Blk
Wife's Lovely 07 Uplander grocery getter
JDMish - You're right. For people running low beam HIDs, this should prevent the DRL warning light from coming on. And you'd definately need to do this first before putting in a hi/lo type HID bulb. I forgot about the application of this to HIDs since I'm usually against retrofitting HIDs in DOT reflector housings. But I found the Fit's low beams actually have a fairly sharp cut-off almost e-code"ish". Anyone have photos of their HID setups from aiming distance at a wall so I can see if there is a lot of glare? or is the cut-off retained? I'm assuming that if the HID bulb is made so that the position of the light source is maintained, it should be ok.
Startroops - What do you need to fog lights to do? I don't have fogs on my LX, but I did rewire my previous Audi front and rear fogs to run completely independently from the low/high beams. Maybe I can offer some suggestions?
Toy Yoda - DRLs are usually fairly independent systems. As I mentioned in my post on my blog, I did test all light functions on my Fit after I pulled fuse #8, and parking lamps, low beams, high beams, all work, and it doesn't feel as if my parking brakes are locked on (the only other thing that might be in the system usually) So I'm satisfied with that. As I said, If you pull te 10 amp fuse from slot #18 without removing #8, the DRL warning on the dash comes on. But if both fuses are pulled, then there are no warning light, same as if you just remove #8 alone. So #18 is definately wired after #8. And with the amperage, I'm assuming #8 fuse is simply in-line for a trigger wire, say, coming from the ignition or the parking brake handle, telling the DRL when to come on. The actual DRL curcuit, is probably connected through the #18 fuse.
MarkB - Yeah, I was wondering if that was possible as well. Coming from a VW/Audi background, I know that with the new Golf/Jettas, you ca disable their DRL system with a VAG-Tool. But since pulling the fuse worked, as you said, it's easy enough.
Sam - Sorry, without a manual, I'm not going to dig out the entire DRL curcuit. All I did was pull a fuse. I have no idea which relay is the actual DRL relay, or where all the wires are going.
IIRC, all cars that are sold are required to equip with DRL and enabled at the factory, but I don't think that all cars on the road are required to have DRL enabled. (at least i see by average 2 cars per day without their DRL, and those are newer models!)
I believe the cops won't be a problem if you haven't done anything stupid. I once disabled my smart's DRL for almost 6 months with no problem.
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Toy Yoda, I'm not sure why our cars would be different. However, I have only Fuse #8 removed on my car, and I still got the seatbelt reminder chime.
Normally this is not a problem for me as I almost always wear my seatbelt, even just to move the car down the block. Force of habit I suppose. However, the other day when I was moving some DIY shelving with the seats in "Long Mode", the weight of the package was enough for the front passenger seat to think someone was sitting there, and triggered the seatbelt reminder chime.
For an easy fix during the trip, I just buckled in the passenger seatbelt anyways. But this is silly because that means the passenger side airbags are activated, even though no one's sitting there.
Anyways, I remembered you saying something about this chime being disabled with the DRL fuse pulled. So I thought maybe it's just the driver side that's disabled. So I tried it after I got home and guess what, I still got the seatbelt chime.
U sure your chime was disabled because of the DRL fuse?
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R.K., All cars sold in Canada has been required BY LAW to have DRL since 1990. Any newer cars that you see without DRL either have their bulb filments burnt out, been deactivated by the owner, or was a US import that had a "temporary" DRL put in just to pass inspection for licensing. Also, keep in mind North American DRLs can run almost ANY light up front. Low beam, high beam, fog lights, even turn signals (21w, not 5w parking lights)
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Bengolf, I believe the DRL on the Fit runs part voltage to the high beam filment of our H4 bulbs. So if someone had a low beam only HID conversion, it should not light up from the DRL. But you would get the DRL warning light in your dash. So pulling fuse #8 takes care of that.
yeah, i've been trying to figure out what's going on too. Sometimes my seatbelt chime will go off and sometimes it won't. When i wrote teh post originally, it was just one of those times that it didn't go off. Wierd!! Sorry!!!
Just a quick update. Today I received the Helms Service manual my sister ordered for me for xmas. I took a quick look at the DRL diagram to get a better understanding of what exactly I did.
The system consists of a Control Unit with what looks like pre-wired low-beam cut relay, and a DRL relay mounted on the side of the unit. All mounted above the gas pedal towards the right of the steering wheel column, and connected with a 14-pin harness.
Fuse #8, (7.5A) comes from the ignition switch to trigger the control unit for the DRL. So by pulling this fuse, we're basically hiding the fact that the vehicle is actually on from the DRL system, so the system never arms.
Fuse #18 (10A) is the source power for the output of the DRL unit. This is why if you only pull this fuse and not #8, you'll get the DRL light in the dash, because the system is armed, but there's no power output.
And nothing connected to the seat sensor harness or seatbelt sensor.
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