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breaking into high 15 sec 1/4 mile with 09 Fit, in theory

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  #41  
Old 09-11-2014, 01:37 AM
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easiest ways to ditch weight is lighter rims, car audio battery (mine is SVR copy of Kinetik HC600), and remove back seats

BTW my tiny battery that I swapped from my 26R still keeps all the lights on even when the subs hit loud.
 
  #42  
Old 09-11-2014, 09:16 PM
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Hey does that 26R battery fit in the battery tray, by chance?
 
  #43  
Old 09-11-2014, 10:07 PM
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I wouldn't call SVR a copy of anyone. They were a huge player 10 years ago and wildly ahead of the curve for cold cranking amps then (my testing put their output way above oddessey). I used SVR for my EV racing, and in fairness my racecar has an oddessey just because of availability at the moment. I know there are some pretty exciting new offering that have come out in the past decade but price per pound, I would still put my money on SVR.

Yes I believe you would have to make a bit of a jig for an SVR/other to sit in for it to work with the stock tray. It's not rocket surgery, a couple hours and some scrap wood and basic cutting tools will net you something usable.
 
  #44  
Old 09-11-2014, 11:57 PM
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Originally Posted by spryter
Hey does that 26R battery fit in the battery tray, by chance?

I made a piece of wood that fit the stock tray perfectly, so the battery wasnt just sitting on the edges.

It was a snug fit between headlight and intake side of battery tray. Didnt use a tiedown at all, the battery is almost double factory weight lol.

Damn thing NEVER skipped a beat starting the car! Even at 40 below zero last winter
 
  #45  
Old 09-12-2014, 12:01 AM
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Originally Posted by bensenvill
I wouldn't call SVR a copy of anyone. They were a huge player 10 years ago and wildly ahead of the curve for cold cranking amps then (my testing put their output way above oddessey). I used SVR for my EV racing, and in fairness my racecar has an oddessey just because of availability at the moment. I know there are some pretty exciting new offering that have come out in the past decade but price per pound, I would still put my money on SVR.

Yes I believe you would have to make a bit of a jig for an SVR/other to sit in for it to work with the stock tray. It's not rocket surgery, a couple hours and some scrap wood and basic cutting tools will net you something usable.

I have a piece of wood sitting on top of the battery and currnetly using stock battery tiedown.

I dont know anything about SVR, other then this battery starts my car, lets me play boom boom noises from the subs, and is tiny.


If it struggles at all this winter im throwing in a Kinetik HC800 to replace it. Ive had the SVR for 1.5 years, no idea how long previous owner had it.
 
  #46  
Old 09-12-2014, 12:03 AM
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Originally Posted by 13fit
easiest ways to ditch weight is lighter rims, car audio battery (mine is SVR copy of Kinetik HC600), and remove back seats

BTW my tiny battery that I swapped from my 26R still keeps all the lights on even when the subs hit loud.

Everything that 13fit says above. I'm currently using an Ballistic Evolution battery. Weight is 2.3-2.5lbs. It is tied down with a huge, thick tie-wrap.
 
  #47  
Old 09-12-2014, 12:54 AM
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"Starts at 40 below" are the kinds of words I need to hear when talking about batteries. "Starts at 50 below" is ideal, but I realize not a lot of people could verify that for me.
 
  #48  
Old 09-17-2014, 03:35 PM
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I'm actually wondering if the lightweight is such a good idea, drag racing wise. Weight reduction is great overall period but taking weight off the front end has its drawbacks.

I'm leaving my stock battery in tonight to see if there is even a tiny bit of improvement in my 60ft time. The only thing different I'm doing tonight is keeping this battery in and increasing the rear tire pressure to max. I'm trying to prevent rear-end squat during take-off (Or minimize it as much as possible). My 60ft times will tell that tale.
 
  #49  
Old 09-17-2014, 09:32 PM
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you will get more response and a better time if your mounts were stiffer, rather then 20 pound difference in battery.

handling-wise, I wanna put the battery in the back, the rear end gets super squirrely under braking on these cars.
 
  #50  
Old 09-27-2014, 09:19 PM
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Originally Posted by 13fit
you will get more response and a better time if your mounts were stiffer, rather then 20 pound difference in battery.

handling-wise, I wanna put the battery in the back, the rear end gets super squirrely under braking on these cars.
Stiffer mounts? That's interesting! Maybe I'll look into it.

Ran a 16.1 and 16.0 at Cecil County drag way this Friday. Temp was in the mid- high 60's. 15's are so close, I can taste it. I'm gonna break into it damn it. Baby steps! I got a couple tricks up my sleeve. Maybe I'll test this Wednesday or Friday.


It is all I can think about now…..kinda an obsession. It must be done! Hahaha!
 

Last edited by Myxalplyx; 09-27-2014 at 09:27 PM.
  #51  
Old 09-27-2014, 10:57 PM
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The stiffer mounts help because you have a moment where the power is twisting the mounts and flexing them rather then putting the power down right away.

Sometimes those few milleseconds of zero wheelpower add up to a tricky launch, or a rough shift.

Plus the car feels better! you touch the throttle, the car actually does something right away, rather then going OH SNAP you wanna move, I gotchoo!
 
  #52  
Old 09-27-2014, 11:42 PM
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Originally Posted by Myxalplyx
I got a couple tricks up my sleeve. Maybe I'll test this Wednesday or Friday.
Talked to your friend Sneaky Pete? :P
 
  #53  
Old 09-28-2014, 04:02 PM
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Originally Posted by spryter
Talked to your friend Sneaky Pete? :P
You are not not talking about nitrous are you?

That's not a nice thing to say now....
 
  #54  
Old 09-29-2014, 01:49 AM
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Maybe I am. Who wants to know? ;-D

Realistically, though. Have you considered removing the spoiler and just plugging the holes for the hardware before going to the track (to keep any potential rain out)? When you're as close as you are to reaching a goal, it may be all the difference. Who knows if the spoiler even has any effect on drag with how small it is.
 
  #55  
Old 09-29-2014, 11:04 AM
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Originally Posted by spryter
Maybe I am. Who wants to know? ;-D

Realistically, though. Have you considered removing the spoiler and just plugging the holes for the hardware before going to the track (to keep any potential rain out)? When you're as close as you are to reaching a goal, it may be all the difference. Who knows if the spoiler even has any effect on drag with how small it is.

When I start getting really desparate, maybe I'll resort to that. Trying to fine tune what I have already (Intake, exhaust, weight, etc). Thanks for the suggestion though.


In the meantime, I take Sneaky Pete suggestions seriously.
 
  #56  
Old 09-29-2014, 09:35 PM
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I did a little research on each company, and there are pros and cons to each. What it boils down to is this: NOS is more expensive, but they make a wet kit, and an extra unit that lets you control at what stage the throttle is open to allow the nitrous system to activate. The NX system is cheaper, and has lots of jetting options, but doesn't have the TPS switch, and they make no mention of whether its a wet or dry system (if I had to guess, I'd say dry just by the price). Zex has the NMU and lots of fail safes in place, but their kits are dry shot only, and you have to jet a minimum 55 shot as far as I can tell, which may be more air than the car can really safely handle.

For my money, I would spend a little more and get the NOS system. It just seems to be the most well built to me.
 
  #57  
Old 09-29-2014, 10:40 PM
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The only nitrous kits to get on a setup with no tuning solution is the kits that include an extra fuel injector. Otherwise you will run into severe reliability issues if you do not know exactly when to hit the button. too much engine load or not enough rpms means a BOOM sound and the screeching pain of your wallet.
 
  #58  
Old 09-30-2014, 12:02 AM
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Hence the NOS kit. Its a wet kit as mentioned, meaning it adds fuel as well as nitrous oxide. Just as long as you don't spray huge amounts (probably not much more than a 35 shot to be safe), you shouldn't have issues.
 
  #59  
Old 09-30-2014, 01:34 AM
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With proper setup and enough fuel, Im sure these motors would survive even a 100 shot.

I think nitrous is cheating though. Cant say you hit the 15s with spray.

It would be fun though!
 
  #60  
Old 09-30-2014, 02:04 AM
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Originally Posted by 13fit
With proper setup and enough fuel, Im sure these motors would survive even a 100 shot.

I think nitrous is cheating though. Cant say you hit the 15s with spray.

It would be fun though!
I'm joking around about nitrous. Not adding that to the Fit. Man....I hope I don't.

As for the 15s N/A.....this is going down, THIS week damn it. Too bad it's raining Tuesday and Wednesday nights. I may be able to go Friday night and see. Gawd...just give me two 15.9's. We can do this.
 

Last edited by Myxalplyx; 09-30-2014 at 02:06 AM.


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