breaking into high 15 sec 1/4 mile with 09 Fit, in theory
#1
Join Date: Mar 2007
Location: Winthrop Harbor Illinois/ Presque Isle Wisconsin
Posts: 1,251
breaking into high 15 sec 1/4 mile with 09 Fit, in theory
Don't worry you can shoot holes in the numbers, but not easily in the difference that modifications make.
Using the LRT calculator found about 2/3rds of the way down this page
Stealth 316 - Formulas for 1/4 mile ET & mph vs. hp & wgt
(power to weight calculator to aproxamate 1/4 mile times)
stock GD3 manual sport, 2471Lbs + 150 lb driver, 109 HP = 16.680 et 82.495 mph
stock GE8 manual sport, 2520 lbs + 150 lb driver, 117 HP = 16.457 et 83.808 mph
Proposed mods
replace wheels with forged saving 8 lbs per wheel, replace crank pulley (unorthodox) saving 4.85 lbs. Now this is static weight savings AND rotational weight savings. Friends who race tell me this will free up 5HP easily as rotational weight eats up HP like crazy. Plus projected HP gain from intake and catback of 5 additional HP.
Remove spare and jack, 12 lb lighter battery bring total static weight loss to 80 lbs......so here goes with the new projected numbers.
moded GE8 sport manual 2440 LBS + 150 lb driver, 127 HP = 15.987 et 86.700 mph
a modded GD3 would have a similar improvement within a couple of tenths of the GE8
Just doing this for fun, not really going to drag race, some numbers on HP are a guess but I think they are very conservative and realistic.
.
Using the LRT calculator found about 2/3rds of the way down this page
Stealth 316 - Formulas for 1/4 mile ET & mph vs. hp & wgt
(power to weight calculator to aproxamate 1/4 mile times)
stock GD3 manual sport, 2471Lbs + 150 lb driver, 109 HP = 16.680 et 82.495 mph
stock GE8 manual sport, 2520 lbs + 150 lb driver, 117 HP = 16.457 et 83.808 mph
Proposed mods
replace wheels with forged saving 8 lbs per wheel, replace crank pulley (unorthodox) saving 4.85 lbs. Now this is static weight savings AND rotational weight savings. Friends who race tell me this will free up 5HP easily as rotational weight eats up HP like crazy. Plus projected HP gain from intake and catback of 5 additional HP.
Remove spare and jack, 12 lb lighter battery bring total static weight loss to 80 lbs......so here goes with the new projected numbers.
moded GE8 sport manual 2440 LBS + 150 lb driver, 127 HP = 15.987 et 86.700 mph
a modded GD3 would have a similar improvement within a couple of tenths of the GE8
Just doing this for fun, not really going to drag race, some numbers on HP are a guess but I think they are very conservative and realistic.
.
Last edited by Tork; 02-26-2009 at 02:14 PM.
#2
Don't worry you can shoot holes in the numbers, but not easily in the difference that modifications make.
Using the LRT calculator found about 2/3rds of the way down this page
Stealth 316 - Formulas for 1/4 mile ET & mph vs. hp & wgt
(power to weight calculator to approximate 1/4 mile times)
stock GD3 manual sport, 2471Lbs + 150 lb driver, 109 HP = 16.680 et 82.495 mph
stock GE8 manual sport, 2520 lbs + 150 lb driver, 117 HP = 16.457 et 83.808 mph
Proposed mods
replace wheels with forged saving 8 lbs per wheel, replace crank pulley (unorthodox) saving 4.85 lbs. Now this is static weight savings AND rotational weight savings. Friends who race tell me this will free up 5HP easily as rotational weight eats up HP like crazy. Plus projected HP gain from intake and catback of 5 additional HP.
Remove spare and jack, 12 lb lighter battery bring total static weight loss to 80 lbs......so here goes with the new projected numbers.
moded GE8 sport manual 2440 LBS + 150 lb driver, 127 HP = 15.987 et 86.700 mph
a modded GD3 would have a similar improvement within a couple of tenths of the GE8
Just doing this for fun, not really going to drag race, some numbers on HP are a guess but I think they are very conservative and realistic.
.
Using the LRT calculator found about 2/3rds of the way down this page
Stealth 316 - Formulas for 1/4 mile ET & mph vs. hp & wgt
(power to weight calculator to approximate 1/4 mile times)
stock GD3 manual sport, 2471Lbs + 150 lb driver, 109 HP = 16.680 et 82.495 mph
stock GE8 manual sport, 2520 lbs + 150 lb driver, 117 HP = 16.457 et 83.808 mph
Proposed mods
replace wheels with forged saving 8 lbs per wheel, replace crank pulley (unorthodox) saving 4.85 lbs. Now this is static weight savings AND rotational weight savings. Friends who race tell me this will free up 5HP easily as rotational weight eats up HP like crazy. Plus projected HP gain from intake and catback of 5 additional HP.
Remove spare and jack, 12 lb lighter battery bring total static weight loss to 80 lbs......so here goes with the new projected numbers.
moded GE8 sport manual 2440 LBS + 150 lb driver, 127 HP = 15.987 et 86.700 mph
a modded GD3 would have a similar improvement within a couple of tenths of the GE8
Just doing this for fun, not really going to drag race, some numbers on HP are a guess but I think they are very conservative and realistic.
.
THIS stuff is very heady and my brain hurts just trying to get wrapped around it!
BUT...
With the HP increase caused by replacing the crank pulley, and losing the weight with the rim swap, spare/jack delete and battery retro, I feebly IMAGINE that your math IS correct.
Except for the cost factor, turbocharging it would certainly increase output more than changing out the crank!
OR, one could simply buy real FAST CARS to begin with, and cut out all this bull$hit!
...Keep in mind the KISS theory, TORK...
Instead, install the Tri-Phase unit and add at least a few extra HPs!
Do the Blitz TB mod and be quicker "off the line."
About the wheels...I can't wait to swap my steelies for my Del Sol mags simply for the increased good looks!
The "good looks" factor has gotta be worth an extra 5-10 HPs.
#4
Join Date: Mar 2007
Location: Winthrop Harbor Illinois/ Presque Isle Wisconsin
Posts: 1,251
Always thought provoking Craig......
No..... changing the crank "pulley", not the crank, like $200, one bolt, done!
and the other method to my madness is the benefit of better MPG (10% could be possible)
Unlike forced induction, this is for the purist, taking an efficient vehicle and making it more efficient.....which might be exactly what K.I.S.S stands for.
keep it simple stupid (well the 2 S's part of that may Fit me pretty well)
so it is really meant for MPG and over-all efficiency of the car, just used 1/4 mile times to illustrate the effects of the mods.
No..... changing the crank "pulley", not the crank, like $200, one bolt, done!
and the other method to my madness is the benefit of better MPG (10% could be possible)
Unlike forced induction, this is for the purist, taking an efficient vehicle and making it more efficient.....which might be exactly what K.I.S.S stands for.
keep it simple stupid (well the 2 S's part of that may Fit me pretty well)
so it is really meant for MPG and over-all efficiency of the car, just used 1/4 mile times to illustrate the effects of the mods.
#6
Always thought provoking Craig......
No..... changing the crank "pulley", not the crank, like $200, one bolt, done!
and the other method to my madness is the benefit of better MPG (10% could be possible)
Unlike forced induction, this is for the purist, taking an efficient vehicle and making it more efficient.....which might be exactly what K.I.S.S stands for.
keep it simple stupid (well the 2 S's part of that may Fit me pretty well)
so it is really meant for MPG and over-all efficiency of the car, just used 1/4 mile times to illustrate the effects of the mods.
No..... changing the crank "pulley", not the crank, like $200, one bolt, done!
and the other method to my madness is the benefit of better MPG (10% could be possible)
Unlike forced induction, this is for the purist, taking an efficient vehicle and making it more efficient.....which might be exactly what K.I.S.S stands for.
keep it simple stupid (well the 2 S's part of that may Fit me pretty well)
so it is really meant for MPG and over-all efficiency of the car, just used 1/4 mile times to illustrate the effects of the mods.
Where can I get a pulley? I'm good with a wrench!
MAN, you think a lot!
I thought you had kids.
Where and when do you find the time?!
#7
Join Date: Mar 2007
Location: Winthrop Harbor Illinois/ Presque Isle Wisconsin
Posts: 1,251
I like this idea a lot, is she cute, you got pics?
#8
Join Date: Mar 2007
Location: Winthrop Harbor Illinois/ Presque Isle Wisconsin
Posts: 1,251
Here is a great site to read up on them (if you want and got a few minutes) and great quality. Unorthodox Racing
other ones available in the mid/high $100 range. I can give you that info
yeah well I was with my 7 & 12 year old daughters tonight watching the school basket ball game, but I was thinking about cars part of the time.......and there was this cute mom also.......
other ones available in the mid/high $100 range. I can give you that info
yeah well I was with my 7 & 12 year old daughters tonight watching the school basket ball game, but I was thinking about cars part of the time.......and there was this cute mom also.......
#9
Here is a great site to read up on them (if you want and got a few minutes) and great quality. Unorthodox Racing
other ones available in the mid/high $100 range. I can give you that info.
other ones available in the mid/high $100 range. I can give you that info.
Are ya talking about...Pulley Set (Stock Diameter) at $240ish?
Remember, I have a 2008 GD-3!
#10
Join Date: Mar 2007
Location: Winthrop Harbor Illinois/ Presque Isle Wisconsin
Posts: 1,251
yeah but 10% off free shipping and dont take the little alternator pully, you dont need it. I bought a 'blem' pulley(small flaw in the anodize but it looked perfect) for my Maxima a few years ago for $120
great car!!!!!!! Same gain applies!!!!! Hey, we are high rollin biotches
great car!!!!!!! Same gain applies!!!!! Hey, we are high rollin biotches
#11
yeah but 10% off free shipping and dont take the little alternator pully, you dont need it. I bought a 'blem' pulley(small flaw in the anodize but it looked perfect) for my Maxima a few years ago for $120
great car!!!!!!! Same gain applies!!!!! Hey, we are high rollin biotches
great car!!!!!!! Same gain applies!!!!! Hey, we are high rollin biotches
Not being able to see pictures of it makes my head hurt, sorta like your initial post!
#12
Don't worry you can shoot holes in the numbers, but not easily in the difference that modifications make.
Using the LRT calculator found about 2/3rds of the way down this page
Stealth 316 - Formulas for 1/4 mile ET & mph vs. hp & wgt
(power to weight calculator to aproxamate 1/4 mile times)
stock GD3 manual sport, 2471Lbs + 150 lb driver, 109 HP = 16.680 et 82.495 mph
stock GE8 manual sport, 2520 lbs + 150 lb driver, 117 HP = 16.457 et 83.808 mph
Proposed mods
replace wheels with forged saving 8 lbs per wheel, replace crank pulley (unorthodox) saving 4.85 lbs. Now this is static weight savings AND rotational weight savings. Friends who race tell me this will free up 5HP easily as rotational weight eats up HP like crazy. Plus projected HP gain from intake and catback of 5 additional HP.
Remove spare and jack, 12 lb lighter battery bring total static weight loss to 80 lbs......so here goes with the new projected numbers.
moded GE8 sport manual 2440 LBS + 150 lb driver, 127 HP = 15.987 et 86.700 mph
a modded GD3 would have a similar improvement within a couple of tenths of the GE8
Just doing this for fun, not really going to drag race, some numbers on HP are a guess but I think they are very conservative and realistic.
.
Using the LRT calculator found about 2/3rds of the way down this page
Stealth 316 - Formulas for 1/4 mile ET & mph vs. hp & wgt
(power to weight calculator to aproxamate 1/4 mile times)
stock GD3 manual sport, 2471Lbs + 150 lb driver, 109 HP = 16.680 et 82.495 mph
stock GE8 manual sport, 2520 lbs + 150 lb driver, 117 HP = 16.457 et 83.808 mph
Proposed mods
replace wheels with forged saving 8 lbs per wheel, replace crank pulley (unorthodox) saving 4.85 lbs. Now this is static weight savings AND rotational weight savings. Friends who race tell me this will free up 5HP easily as rotational weight eats up HP like crazy. Plus projected HP gain from intake and catback of 5 additional HP.
Remove spare and jack, 12 lb lighter battery bring total static weight loss to 80 lbs......so here goes with the new projected numbers.
moded GE8 sport manual 2440 LBS + 150 lb driver, 127 HP = 15.987 et 86.700 mph
a modded GD3 would have a similar improvement within a couple of tenths of the GE8
Just doing this for fun, not really going to drag race, some numbers on HP are a guess but I think they are very conservative and realistic.
.
Has anyone been able to achieve a high 15 second 1/4 mile run in the Honda Fit? Manual tranny and/or automatic? I'm talking about being naturally aspirated. I thought I read about forced induction Fits running mid to low 15's. I'm very curious about this as I'd like to try to achieve this goal. Thanks!
#14
I've ran high 15.9s three times in my 13 5 speed got intake (k&n) and full exhaust (two inch pipe from first cat back and stock wheels all about getting as little wheel spin as possible had my tire pressure low launched at about 2500 3000 rpms thought that would help but the haters will ask for time slips video blah blah I went on the track as a joke with a friend and his 700 hp car 15 seconds is not something you wanna have record of lol he was fast enough to roll his window down and look back for me to finish somewhere on this site there's a guy with just a diy intake and muffler was able to run 16.2 with time slips so 15.9 with full exhaust and a real intake it can be done with not to much work
Last edited by HONDA4LIFE420; 09-03-2014 at 05:31 PM.
#15
I've ran high 15.9s three times in my 13 5 speed got intake (k&n) and full exhaust (two inch pipe from first cat back and stock wheels all about getting as little wheel spin as possible had my tire pressure low launched at about 2500 3000 rpms thought that would help but the haters will ask for time slips video blah blah I went on the track as a joke with a friend and his 700 hp car 15 seconds is not something you wanna have record of lol he was fast enough to roll his window down and look back for me to finish somewhere on this site there's a guy with just a diy intake and muffler was able to run 16.2 with time slips so 15.9 with full exhaust and a real intake it can be done with not to much work
In general, yes! For a naturally aspirated Fit, No! Baby steps! There are no mods for the naturally aspirated 2015 Fit, let alone forced induction. Doing what I can with what I got. The difference between slow and very slow could impact how I pass a vehicle or merge onto a highway. This is not for everyone, only those that care (Like the original poster).
#16
Also wanted to add that if you did lightweight pulley and lightened flywheel and a good clutch and some wheels and tires made for drag like 14s spoon makes a throttle body and add a throttle spacer stripped the back seats spare/jack removed ac and power steering and washer fluid tank wipers and motors make tire pressure low up front high in the rear it was cold outside warm track and had just enough gas like gas light on I would be very interested in what's possible wouldnt be surprised you gave a turbo fit a hard time
#17
In general, yes! For a naturally aspirated Fit, No! Baby steps! There are no mods for the naturally aspirated 2015 Fit, let alone forced induction. Doing what I can with what I got. The difference between slow and very slow could impact how I pass a vehicle or merge onto a highway. This is not for everyone, only those that care (Like the original poster).
#18
i dunno man. with bisimoto working on a GK SEMA car, i'm quite curious what Turbo they come out for it. not to mention Spoon is also forced to work on a stock engine, not a K20 drop in. i'm getting excited of the USDM aftermarket possibilities for the GK. this guy might end up giving the GE to the wife, and me with a GK =p
#20
Check this out and vote for Kenny!
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