Conversation Between Bassguitarist1985 and Tom Spahr

I have some youtube videos discussing my install I still need to edit down. Will be available soon. Using the Metra aftermarket harness connector parts is fairly involved. You need to add 4 pins to the male connector in order to retain your steering wheel controls for the 15' Fit. You will also want to make such an install modular and use proper sized molex connectors should you need to bypass or disconnect components.

All this I have done and shown on my thread, but not at the level of detail you need unfortunately. I can provide you with the connector schematic and pinout so you can follow it. It took me a good 2 hours taking my time between adding the necessary pins to the male plug, and soldering all the necessary wires over to the female plug while adding molex interconnects for the processor/amplifier splice in. Its the most tedious part of the job, the rest is very straight forward.

Thanks for the info! I guess I'm a little more of a noob than I'd like to think.

Are there any good tutorials about how to build/tap off the harness? I'm assuming that there is the 12V lead would run to the LC2i first, then jump to the sub? Also assuming placement of the LC2i would be best nearest the sub, and run both to a common ground?

Sorry for the 20 questions. If there are good tutorials you are familiar with, that is greatly appreciated. Since this is new, I can't "picture" a lot of this in my head, but want to take the time to think and build everything before I start tackling the installation.

Thanks!
Tom

Tom,

1. Plenty! The driver seat you will need to raise vertically one click to so to clear the sub. I will be posting pictures very soon. I just completed the entire stereo system this weekend. Spent the past two days tuning and dialing the sound in. I would highly recommend two units, the sound is amazing!

2. You would need to still make a harness: HU-->Female Conn--->Male Connector---> Body harness. This way to can tap the front left and right channels to feed the sub.

I used an LCQ-1 to convert the speaker level from the HU to line level w/EQ. The HU has a severe rolloff of the bass frequencies below 100 HZ. If you tap directly off the speakers without some sort of bass compensation the subs will be very weak turned all the way up.

My recommendation: Build the interface harness, buy a LC2i interface to take speaker level to line level, and connect the sub input to that. It has bass freq compensation and will give you the input level you need to drive the sub properly.

First, thanks for the replies you've posted to my questions...very helpful!

I'm in a dilemma that I think you've worked through. Any help is appreciated. With respect to the Kenwood KSC-SW11:

1) I will only be installing one; are you installing under either the driver/passenger front seat, and did you find there to be adequate room?

2) I like your plan to not alter the original harness by splicing. How hard would it be for me (not a total electronics noob, but not having fun with the harnesses) to modify what you have done to only run speaker level and "on" runs from the modified harness to the sub? And did you end up with a speaker level run to the sub, or did you end up with a transformer that knocked the signal from speaker to line level?

Thanks for helping with the (hopefully not totally) stupid questions in advance!

Tom