Maintenance tips for Honda Jazz/Fit GD1
#1
09-17-2009, 05:49 PM
Maintenance tips for Honda Jazz/Fit GD1
I'm compiling a list of tips and tricks that I've had to learn whilst modifying my Jazz.
Adding keyless entry or adding additional fobs to open the car can be achieved by:
1) buying a replacement fob off ebay or your honda dealer
2) insert the existing key for the car into the ignition
3) turn the key in ignition until just before starting the engine then pressing the lock button on the new fob you are trying to program.
4) return the key to original position when the key is first inserted
5) repeat steps 3 and 4 two more times, if done successfully the doors should have now locked! and the new fob can be used for keyless entry!
Installing OEM foglights
1) Make sure you buy a kit that is complete i.e foglights, mounts, new indicator stalk (you need this as this has the foglight switch for the front), wiring loom for lights and connections for the stalk, and some other parts that I'll photograph.
2) Having assembled all you parts you'll need the right tools and a good sense of what you are doing not that the manual I had helped at all.
3) Tools needed:
PHILLIPS HEX HEAD screw driver (6mm I think will check)
12mm socket
Phillips long and short handled screwdrivers
Sharp knife or Stanley
Small Flat headed screw driver
4) As you will have to remove the steering wheel you MUST disconnect the BATTERY as we wouldn't want the air bags to go off.
Resetting the car after changes to the ABS or SRS i.e. when you disconnect any of those sensors or the lights appear on you dashboard.
(Applicable only on models with electric windows).
Simply put the key in the ignition turn to allow windows to work, wind down passenger window, then wind back up holding the button in the up position for 3 seconds when at the top and then push to put the window down on "auto" mode. If the window goes down on it's own then it's worked if not repeat and hold for longer. This resets the system and should clear all the lights, failing this re-check you connections.
Aux input for OEM intergrated Stereo This allows you to plug in toys like your MP3 Player etc.
Basically do as they say
http://www.hondafitjazz.com/audio.htm
I also salvaged a jumper from an old computer to connect pins 1+2 to enable the Aux function and used the Audio cable that normally runs from the back of the CD-ROM drive to the motherboard or sound card as this has the correct spacing and number or pins (4) to perfom the connection duties to pins 3,4, and 5.
Props to the these dudes: http://www.hondafitjazz.com/audio.htm
Finally Sorted the EGR Valve issue!!!
I've read a lot about issues regarding the (EGR valve) Exhaust Gas recirculation Valve.
Firstly I'll explain what it is... This little nuisance is designed to lower the emissions that you car produces by feeding in some of your exhaust fumes back into the inlet manifold to be re-burnt thus reducing the emissions. The obvious bad points to this are you are basically putting hot dirty gases into the engine!!! Thus comprimising combustion and performance and ultimately life of the engine.
The issues that people have spoken about are that if you blank it off then you get engine warning lights and some rubbish about lowered engine pressure. This is not my experience as I'm assuming those that have blanked it off in the past have just removed the valve and added a plate, by doing this there is nowhere for the electrical connector to connect to and the electrical circuit is broken and this will inevitably throw a CEL (Check Engine Light) error.
To overcome this what I propose is simply slipping a blanking plate under the valve and maintaining the circuit thus the valve is manually over-ridden and the ECU will have no electrical issues.
The EGR Valve is located on the left of the engine at the front (will try to find a picture/link)
1.) Parts needed:
EGRV Gasket (or appropiate equivalent)
Thin metal plate about 2mm thick is enough
2.) Having assembled all you parts you'll need the right tools and a good sense of what you are doing.
3.) Tools needed
12mm socket wrench possibly with extention (accessing the bolts is annoying)
11mm or 10mm spanner/socket to remove a plate that holds the wire that runs to the valve that gets in the way of the bolts that hold the valve on.
A wide bladed chisel if you are planning to re-use the existing gasket.
metal cutters/angle grinder
File
Pencil
Drill with metallic bits sizes 2mm, 5mm, 8mm
Metal tap
4.) Now you've got your stuff together
remove the plate to the right of the EGR Valve that holds the wire running to the valve as this gets in the way of the bolts that hold the valve on.
Remove the connector at the top of the valve by simply unclipping this.
remove the first 12mm bolt at the front before the one at the back as the bolt at the back was harder to access and when removing this it actually removed the EGR Valve as my socket was stuck between the bolt head and the valve.
Now carefully remove the valve especially careful if you intend to reuse the gasket (three layer construction) I found that the top of the three layers of the gasket had stuck in part to the base of the EGR Valve so using the wide chisel head I carefully scrapped the metallic substance off and put this back with the rest of the gasket providing a flat smooth top.
Take the EGR Valve place on your metal sheet draw round this with a pencil marking the centre holes with the tap.
Now drill with the 2mm then the 5mm then the 8mm, by going up in small increments the finish is better.
Quick tip the 12mm bolts that you have removed can be use if you have the apprpiate nuts to not hold the EGR Vlave to the metal plate.
Use a file or angle grinder to go round and create the shape of the plate you need.
now just put it all back together, Sorted!!!
This should sort out everything and you'll have no engine errors and smoother starts.
Will update this thread as I go doing this at work in my spare time and will update with pics and any other new ideas please keep this thread clean and not full of silly comments.
Any other tips you have please PM me and I'll update accordingly and give props to the sender.
{PeACe}
facelift to 2005/2006 OEM Sport UK/JDM Model
71103-SAA-Z00 MESH, FR. BUMPER (£65.63)
(The large grille that fits behind the number plate in the front bumper)
71105-SAA-Z00 COVER, R. FR. BUMPER DUCT (£8.99)
71106-SAA-Z00 COVER, L. FR. BUMPER DUCT (£8.98)
(The 2 smaller grilles that fit either side on the front bumper)
The other 2 items that I required to complete the transformation were:
71121-SAA-901 BASE, FR GRILLE (£46.06)
This is the black mesh that holds the Honda logo on
And
71104-SAA-Z00-ZC COVER, FR TO*B92P* (£11.97)
Which is the Tow eye cover for the 2005/06 Sport Bumper
All parts are priced before VAT (tax) of 17.5%
I've priced the items at the cost that I paid on 11/01/10
Bad news my GD1 2002 in mint imperial green is toast after it's epic journey to Latvia in 2 days with 3 hours sleep (in Poland) one way 1800 miles and it's historic top speed achievement of 135MPH (admitedly downhill and possibly with a tail wind) it has met it's match with a hedge in Yorkshire that has left it crippled, yet not completely out as I plan to use it as a track car with an internal rollcage that will remedy any issues with the dents to the chassis after it rolled!!! into a hedge Pictures and video to upload later. I'm sure most of you are not overly impressed, yet the point behind this rant is that to achieve cost effective purchases don't neglect out Canadian cousins as thet have a brilliant postal system like ours that does not charge you, your inheritance to deliver a $10 item from the North American Continent. Equally if you are savvy like I am and willing to take a risk ask the sender (in Canada) to send the item as a gift and of a value of $20 as this will avoid all custom charges and the £8 Roymail handling charge for custom goods.
Gearbox impovement:
Well have fitted M-Factory LSD and close gear ratio box, had to update the gearbox mounts as the torque prooved too much for the originals so filled the old mounts with poly-urethane semi-rigid plastix resin. Result: much stronger mounts; smoother gear change; less wheel hop.
Had reports of people looking to solve high idle issues please use these links to trouble shoot:
The Idle Air Control Valve:
http://www.hondafitjazz.com/manual/A00/HTML/97/SAA2E97A20336100000DAAT00.HTML.
To troubleshoot that (IACV) problem:
http://www.hondafitjazz.com/manual/A00/HTML/98/SAA2E98K72100081143FAAT00.HTML.
I would also suggest to check the condition of the EGR Valve (Exhaust Gas Recirculation) Valve.
As these are expensive to replace I would recommend the mod further down the page to bypass the valve altogether not that I have anything against polar bears.
B-boystance
All this information is valid and to keep it available to everyone please add comments od bump it up share the wealth knowledge is power so if you have story or experience about your Honda Jazz please get in touch.
Sidenote you may or may not ne aware but all Honda Jazz GD models require a change to the electric window switches as the OEM ones have been recalled as they can under certain condistions cause fires. You've been warned get in touch with yor local dealer it's free!!! Lives aren't soo cheap.
Adding keyless entry or adding additional fobs to open the car can be achieved by:
1) buying a replacement fob off ebay or your honda dealer
2) insert the existing key for the car into the ignition
3) turn the key in ignition until just before starting the engine then pressing the lock button on the new fob you are trying to program.
4) return the key to original position when the key is first inserted
5) repeat steps 3 and 4 two more times, if done successfully the doors should have now locked! and the new fob can be used for keyless entry!
Installing OEM foglights
1) Make sure you buy a kit that is complete i.e foglights, mounts, new indicator stalk (you need this as this has the foglight switch for the front), wiring loom for lights and connections for the stalk, and some other parts that I'll photograph.
2) Having assembled all you parts you'll need the right tools and a good sense of what you are doing not that the manual I had helped at all.
3) Tools needed:
PHILLIPS HEX HEAD screw driver (6mm I think will check)
12mm socket
Phillips long and short handled screwdrivers
Sharp knife or Stanley
Small Flat headed screw driver
4) As you will have to remove the steering wheel you MUST disconnect the BATTERY as we wouldn't want the air bags to go off.
Resetting the car after changes to the ABS or SRS i.e. when you disconnect any of those sensors or the lights appear on you dashboard.
(Applicable only on models with electric windows).
Simply put the key in the ignition turn to allow windows to work, wind down passenger window, then wind back up holding the button in the up position for 3 seconds when at the top and then push to put the window down on "auto" mode. If the window goes down on it's own then it's worked if not repeat and hold for longer. This resets the system and should clear all the lights, failing this re-check you connections.
Aux input for OEM intergrated Stereo This allows you to plug in toys like your MP3 Player etc.
Basically do as they say
http://www.hondafitjazz.com/audio.htm
I also salvaged a jumper from an old computer to connect pins 1+2 to enable the Aux function and used the Audio cable that normally runs from the back of the CD-ROM drive to the motherboard or sound card as this has the correct spacing and number or pins (4) to perfom the connection duties to pins 3,4, and 5.
Props to the these dudes: http://www.hondafitjazz.com/audio.htm
Finally Sorted the EGR Valve issue!!!
I've read a lot about issues regarding the (EGR valve) Exhaust Gas recirculation Valve.
Firstly I'll explain what it is... This little nuisance is designed to lower the emissions that you car produces by feeding in some of your exhaust fumes back into the inlet manifold to be re-burnt thus reducing the emissions. The obvious bad points to this are you are basically putting hot dirty gases into the engine!!! Thus comprimising combustion and performance and ultimately life of the engine.
The issues that people have spoken about are that if you blank it off then you get engine warning lights and some rubbish about lowered engine pressure. This is not my experience as I'm assuming those that have blanked it off in the past have just removed the valve and added a plate, by doing this there is nowhere for the electrical connector to connect to and the electrical circuit is broken and this will inevitably throw a CEL (Check Engine Light) error.
To overcome this what I propose is simply slipping a blanking plate under the valve and maintaining the circuit thus the valve is manually over-ridden and the ECU will have no electrical issues.
The EGR Valve is located on the left of the engine at the front (will try to find a picture/link)
1.) Parts needed:
EGRV Gasket (or appropiate equivalent)
Thin metal plate about 2mm thick is enough
2.) Having assembled all you parts you'll need the right tools and a good sense of what you are doing.
3.) Tools needed
12mm socket wrench possibly with extention (accessing the bolts is annoying)
11mm or 10mm spanner/socket to remove a plate that holds the wire that runs to the valve that gets in the way of the bolts that hold the valve on.
A wide bladed chisel if you are planning to re-use the existing gasket.
metal cutters/angle grinder
File
Pencil
Drill with metallic bits sizes 2mm, 5mm, 8mm
Metal tap
4.) Now you've got your stuff together
remove the plate to the right of the EGR Valve that holds the wire running to the valve as this gets in the way of the bolts that hold the valve on.
Remove the connector at the top of the valve by simply unclipping this.
remove the first 12mm bolt at the front before the one at the back as the bolt at the back was harder to access and when removing this it actually removed the EGR Valve as my socket was stuck between the bolt head and the valve.
Now carefully remove the valve especially careful if you intend to reuse the gasket (three layer construction) I found that the top of the three layers of the gasket had stuck in part to the base of the EGR Valve so using the wide chisel head I carefully scrapped the metallic substance off and put this back with the rest of the gasket providing a flat smooth top.
Take the EGR Valve place on your metal sheet draw round this with a pencil marking the centre holes with the tap.
Now drill with the 2mm then the 5mm then the 8mm, by going up in small increments the finish is better.
Quick tip the 12mm bolts that you have removed can be use if you have the apprpiate nuts to not hold the EGR Vlave to the metal plate.
Use a file or angle grinder to go round and create the shape of the plate you need.
now just put it all back together, Sorted!!!
This should sort out everything and you'll have no engine errors and smoother starts.
Will update this thread as I go doing this at work in my spare time and will update with pics and any other new ideas please keep this thread clean and not full of silly comments.
Any other tips you have please PM me and I'll update accordingly and give props to the sender.
{PeACe}
facelift to 2005/2006 OEM Sport UK/JDM Model
71103-SAA-Z00 MESH, FR. BUMPER (£65.63)
(The large grille that fits behind the number plate in the front bumper)
71105-SAA-Z00 COVER, R. FR. BUMPER DUCT (£8.99)
71106-SAA-Z00 COVER, L. FR. BUMPER DUCT (£8.98)
(The 2 smaller grilles that fit either side on the front bumper)
The other 2 items that I required to complete the transformation were:
71121-SAA-901 BASE, FR GRILLE (£46.06)
This is the black mesh that holds the Honda logo on
And
71104-SAA-Z00-ZC COVER, FR TO*B92P* (£11.97)
Which is the Tow eye cover for the 2005/06 Sport Bumper
All parts are priced before VAT (tax) of 17.5%
I've priced the items at the cost that I paid on 11/01/10
Bad news my GD1 2002 in mint imperial green is toast after it's epic journey to Latvia in 2 days with 3 hours sleep (in Poland) one way 1800 miles and it's historic top speed achievement of 135MPH (admitedly downhill and possibly with a tail wind) it has met it's match with a hedge in Yorkshire that has left it crippled, yet not completely out as I plan to use it as a track car with an internal rollcage that will remedy any issues with the dents to the chassis after it rolled!!! into a hedge Pictures and video to upload later. I'm sure most of you are not overly impressed, yet the point behind this rant is that to achieve cost effective purchases don't neglect out Canadian cousins as thet have a brilliant postal system like ours that does not charge you, your inheritance to deliver a $10 item from the North American Continent. Equally if you are savvy like I am and willing to take a risk ask the sender (in Canada) to send the item as a gift and of a value of $20 as this will avoid all custom charges and the £8 Roymail handling charge for custom goods.
Gearbox impovement:
Well have fitted M-Factory LSD and close gear ratio box, had to update the gearbox mounts as the torque prooved too much for the originals so filled the old mounts with poly-urethane semi-rigid plastix resin. Result: much stronger mounts; smoother gear change; less wheel hop.
Had reports of people looking to solve high idle issues please use these links to trouble shoot:
The Idle Air Control Valve:
http://www.hondafitjazz.com/manual/A00/HTML/97/SAA2E97A20336100000DAAT00.HTML.
To troubleshoot that (IACV) problem:
http://www.hondafitjazz.com/manual/A00/HTML/98/SAA2E98K72100081143FAAT00.HTML.
I would also suggest to check the condition of the EGR Valve (Exhaust Gas Recirculation) Valve.
As these are expensive to replace I would recommend the mod further down the page to bypass the valve altogether not that I have anything against polar bears.
B-boystance
All this information is valid and to keep it available to everyone please add comments od bump it up share the wealth knowledge is power so if you have story or experience about your Honda Jazz please get in touch.
Sidenote you may or may not ne aware but all Honda Jazz GD models require a change to the electric window switches as the OEM ones have been recalled as they can under certain condistions cause fires. You've been warned get in touch with yor local dealer it's free!!! Lives aren't soo cheap.
Last edited by B-boystance; 03-02-2014 at 11:40 PM. Reason: new information
#5
09-30-2010, 06:54 PM
Finally got my arse into gear here's the thread of mod pics so far..
honda jazz | Facebook
Follow the above link. The photos show some of my car and the one I rolled and the mods I've done.
honda jazz | Facebook
Follow the above link. The photos show some of my car and the one I rolled and the mods I've done.
Last edited by B-boystance; 03-09-2011 at 03:22 PM.
#6
09-30-2010, 11:48 PM
Sidenote you may or may not ne aware but all Honda Jazz GD models require a change to the electric window switches as the OEM ones have been recalled as they can under certain condistions cause fires. You've been warned get in touch with yor local dealer it's free!!! Lives aren't soo cheap.
Anyway good input. +rep
#9
03-15-2011, 06:09 AM
Not sure we need them as much in England though lol 
Status update on vehicle
and the image most of you will see:
Status update on vehicle
and the image most of you will see:
Last edited by B-boystance; 07-14-2011 at 07:16 PM.
#11
01-10-2012, 08:19 AM
thank you for the tips, i'm considering to do the EGR mod ^^
nice looking and colour too, i'm using an irish red pearl honda jazz, don't laugh..
it's just because i like the colour ^^
nice looking and colour too, i'm using an irish red pearl honda jazz, don't laugh..
it's just because i like the colour ^^
Last edited by Jazz_Pinkz; 01-10-2012 at 08:22 AM.
#12
01-17-2012, 07:33 AM
another gearbox
Right well again the gearbox has failed this time after putting in the LSD, short gear ratio box and lightened flywheel. First the gearbox mounts failed as the rubber tore to pieces. Overcame this issue with polyurethane resin injected into the remenants of the mounts. Applied spoon engine torque dampner too, this to later become the victim of the clutch release bearing that melted/collapsed and tried to throw the engine from its mounts instead snapped the engine toque mount in half. A brief note as the 1.3 has a terrible gearbox unlike the 1.5vtec the gearbox on the 1.3 is pathetic the bearings are too small and can't accept the extra load and torque I've put through them. See dyno link of car dyno'd with broken rubbers in the gearbox mounts. Honda Jazz Dyno-Run - YouTube
So next I suppose is the engine swap that's the only sensible way forward to maintain BHP improvements with Honda reliability. I wouldn't normally complain but this is my 6th gearbox, faults ranging from synchros being destroyed to other collapsed bearings normally on the input shaft.
So next I suppose is the engine swap that's the only sensible way forward to maintain BHP improvements with Honda reliability. I wouldn't normally complain but this is my 6th gearbox, faults ranging from synchros being destroyed to other collapsed bearings normally on the input shaft.
#13
01-18-2012, 09:59 AM
So, do you plan to import a 1.5 vtec gearbox ? It's better to swap the engine too..
Hehe, just a suggestion for you.. ^^
Hehe, just a suggestion for you.. ^^
#14
01-21-2012, 01:53 PM
1.5 vtec gearbox on L13a engine?
I don't think that the 2 will make a happy marriage. I have had 5 Honda Jazz'sssss now and still have 2 of them. I will have one street namely the one in the pics and then look at dropping a K20a in the other 
Hasport next stop after house is bought.
Hasport next stop after house is bought.
#15
01-21-2012, 09:58 PM
it's sound better... using a K20A in a fit like what J'S racing did..
waiting to see a project thread from you then ^^
wow you are such a honda jazz loyal customer.. haha
here in some southeast asia market the engine choice are 1.5L i-DSI or 1.5L VTEC, and both has the same manual gearbox.. even the ratio.. despite a 20 HP gap between them.. haha and i got the 1.5L i-DSI engine with manual gearbox..
waiting to see a project thread from you then ^^
wow you are such a honda jazz loyal customer.. haha
here in some southeast asia market the engine choice are 1.5L i-DSI or 1.5L VTEC, and both has the same manual gearbox.. even the ratio.. despite a 20 HP gap between them.. haha and i got the 1.5L i-DSI engine with manual gearbox..
#17
06-14-2012, 10:51 PM
Can you use stock LSD from L13a in L15 gearbox
Well,
As far as I'm aware there wasn't a stock LSD in the L13a engined Jazz/fit, I do know that the bearing diameters and depth are different on the L13a Gearbox than the L15. I am currently running an M-Factory forged limited Slip Differential that I bought for my L13a gearbox and had to get the thing reduced as the bearings in the bellhouse weren't as big as their sister L15 gearbox's. I wasn't able to increase the stock bearing size either as the bellhouse was to thin to modify the bell house and swap the bearing to match.
hope that answers your question, edit original response as it contained an error.
Cheers,
Andrew (B-boystance) keep it real
As far as I'm aware there wasn't a stock LSD in the L13a engined Jazz/fit, I do know that the bearing diameters and depth are different on the L13a Gearbox than the L15. I am currently running an M-Factory forged limited Slip Differential that I bought for my L13a gearbox and had to get the thing reduced as the bearings in the bellhouse weren't as big as their sister L15 gearbox's. I wasn't able to increase the stock bearing size either as the bellhouse was to thin to modify the bell house and swap the bearing to match.
hope that answers your question, edit original response as it contained an error.
Cheers,
Andrew (B-boystance) keep it real
Last edited by B-boystance; 06-18-2012 at 10:18 PM.
#18
08-04-2012, 06:03 AM
Busy year
Well where to begin, I'll start with my first fault and work through all the pics for you guys including the mods I've done along the way.
My car's clutch release bearing collapsed!!! melted as its made of plastic
photo's of recovery trusty AA man on hand
UP
UP
AND AWAY
IT'S LIKE CAR BONDAGE
My car's clutch release bearing collapsed!!! melted as its made of plastic
photo's of recovery trusty AA man on hand
UP
UP
AND AWAY
IT'S LIKE CAR BONDAGE
#19
08-04-2012, 06:10 AM
Ride Height
This is what it looks like when you've loaded the car with its own weight in victorian slate
#20
08-04-2012, 06:17 AM
New Grill Mugen replica, the only replica part as every UK JAZZ/FIT owner will testify parts are impossible to come across and importing often doubles the cost of the item, come on HONDA UK make modification viable like in Japan!!!
