8000 lb. Ramp System 29.99 SET
#23404.
12,000 lb. Car Ramps #23405...39.99

You can find them at walmart or any automotive store.
8000 lbs is more than sufficient for our car.

 

I really don't like using those ramps...the main reason is that the car isn't level when draining oil. Also in my opinion it is just not necessary if you have a lower-profile oil pan. But just my opinion.

 

FWD cars are a pain on ramps, I shot one from under the car and across the room years ago during some wheelspin trying to SLOWLY climb up one....either that or you chace them around if your floor is smooth....

 

It's really easy...

1st change 15% oil life, 5,280miles, mobil 1 5w20, oem filter.

2nd change 15% oil life, 10,879miles, motorcraft syntetic blend 5w20, K&N HP-1010 filter.

The ramps seem like a great idea, since it could be kind of hard to get in a good possition to make force with the rachet to loose the bolt.

BTW I'll go back to mobil 1 as soon as i get the money, since now I have 12,575 miles and 80% oil life, and the mobil 1 filter is cheaper than the $12.95 K&N one.

 

The oil drains out the back of the oil pan. When it is up on ramps, it drains more of the old oil out of the engine. Why would this be a bad thing?

 

I think and noticed the same!!!!!!

But since I don't want to start a "I AM THE ONE WITH THE REASON" debate, I think that I look prettier when i do not talk.

 

Does anyone know exactly how much oil the fit takes for an oil change?
The manual says 3.8quart including filter , 3.6 without filter and 4.4 total with oil remaining in engine? Ill be doing my first change at around 4500 miles with amsoil 5-30 and an amsoil filter.
and info would be great.

 

I have Ryhno Ramps (exactly like the Gorilla Ramps), but the front lip of my Sport Fit will scratch against it. My last civic could. So I ended up getting an old change at Walmart using Mobile 1 until I can figure out how to remove the front lip.

 

Don't remove the lip just to change oil! I have a low profile floor jack that reaches the front crossmember without problems. Also, many autocrossers build low stepped ramps from stacked strips of plywood... they end up with ramps much lower than the Rhino Ramps that allow them to get jacks under really low cars.


Why are you asking for an exact amount when you've already found it in the manual? Oil changes vary slightly. No one can tell you it will take exactly 3.765 quarts. Just follow the manual's recommendation. Assuming you change the filter, do this:

Put in 3.8 quarts of oil or slightly less.
Close everything up and start the engine. Let it run at least until the oil pressure light turns off and you have normal oil pressure (a few seconds).
Stop the engine, wait a few minutes, and check the oil.
Add oil until the level is correct on the dipstick.

 

I'm asking because the owners manual lists from 3.8 to 4.quarts, thats approaching a quart difference, forums are for asking questions and sharing opinions and info. all my other vehicles simply give you the amount of oil you put in and thats it. thought it better to be safe than sorry.

 

sorry i meant to say 3.8 to 4.4 quarts.

 

I usually pour to the lowest point of the "bar" on my dipstick, then when i get my car off the ramp, i recheck, if it hits about half to 3/4 of the "bar" im okay. If it's too much, its easy for me to drain since I use the Fram EZ-Drain

 

thanks fm2 where is a good place to pick up one of those fram ez drains?? I looked in wallymart and couldnt find it.

 

My mistake, it's the FRAM SURE DRAIN

You can only get it on ebay. Do a search for "fram drain". Make sure you get the SD-2 size as that's the thread size for honda pans. It comes with a brass washer, and it worked fine on my car, but when I installed it on my sister's Honda Accord, there was a leak. I had thought that the idiots at the quicky lube shop had stripped the pan. The dealer checked it out and by using a crush washer that can be purchased at any honda dealer, it'll fix it. So, give it a try. And once it's installed, you won't ever have to unscrew it again, so no worries. You will also need a 7/8" socket to screw in the Sure Drain. You can use a wrench but it would be hard to guage the torque of your tightening. Good luck!

UPDATE: Check it out, they're doing a two-for-one: http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/FRAM-...spagenameZWDVW

Andy

 

Would someone really need two? so about 20 bucks for two.. did u pay 20 for one? i'm now looking for OEM honda filters,.,. they're selling for 9 bcuks at dealership..

 

From the service manual: Oil change 3.4L, oil and filter change 3.6L, total capacity 4.2L.

 

I didn't see a topic on this so I thought I would show a Step by Step on Changing your Engine Oil.

Disclaimer:
I am not a professional mechanic. This procedure is applicable to my personal Honda Fit 5sp and should not replace the training and judgement of a professional mechanic.

As you know Engine Oil is not something that last very long is you travel as much as I do. This is a Step BY Step procedure for changing your engine oil in a 2007 USDM 5sp Honda Fit. See pictures for help.

TOOLS / SUPPLIES: you will need 4 quarts of 5w-20 oil, 1 oil filter ( I used a Fram PH7317 oil filter with sure grip), an oil filter wrench (not pictured cause i didn't use one), and one 17mm wrench/ ratchet and socket combo.


Step one:
Pop your hood. Don't raise it yet just pull the lever.


Next ensure that your EBrake is Set so that your car doesn't roll when you raise it up on the jack/jack stands.


Next with a floor jack or OEM Jack Raise Each side of the front of the car and place jack stands on the jack points.



Now that your car is jacked up you can raise your hood. Lif the locking mechanism pictured below.


Raise the hood and lock in place with hood stand.



Now unscrew your oil fill cap. Ensure that the black rubber gasket is still on the cap and not left on the valve cover that way you don't lose it. If it has come off just simply place it back onto your filler cap and press it into place.





Now, place your oil catch bucket or bowl under the oil pan, use your 17mm wrench to remove the oil drain bolt and drain all oil contents into the bucket. The first picture shows the bottom of the oil pan and the oil drain bolt. Its cleverly labeled





Once the contents of your oil pan have been drained into your bucket you may replace the oil drain bolt. But first coat it with a thin layer of the used oil that way it doesn't get locked on the pan from the heat. Don't over tighten your drain bolt by tightening it with your wrench as much as you can just a few tightening turns should be plenty.




Now on the opposite side of the oil pan than your oil drain bolt is your oil filter. Position your oil catch bucket underneath your filter and slightly loosen the filter until oil starts draining from it. After a few moments remove the old oil filter and drain the remaining contents into your bucket. Also make sure that your oil filter gasket is not stuck to the oil pan (it is the black ring around the silver part of the filter in picture number 3).





Now grab your new filter and lightly coat the new filters rubber gasket with some old oil to prevent it sticking to the oil pan on your next oil change.


Place the new filter onto the filter threads on the oil pan and tighten as much as you can with your hands. You do not need to tighten with an oil filter wrench.


Now that your filter is on you can crawl out from under the car and start filling the engine with oil. The L15 found in the USDM Fit requires 3.8 quarts of oil. So, take your new 5w-20 oil and start filling through the oil fill area where you removed the cap earlier. Between quart bottles wipe away excess oil and spillage to prevent it from burning onto your valve cover (see picture 2).




Now that the engine has fresh oil inside replace your oil cap and tighten down hand tight, once again don't over tighten that way you can remove it next time.


Now go inside the cabin of your car and start it, ensure that none of the lights pictured below remain on or come of after starting the car.


Now to reset your oil life gauge that is combined with your trip meter, hold the button down for aprox. 10 seconds or until it starts flashing. Once it starts flashing release the button and then press it again and hold it for 5 seconds or until the "Oil Life" returns to 100%.


If you have anything that you feel needs to be added to this thread please post up and let me know and I will edit the thread to show the most possible correctness.

Thanks and Happy Modding
Clint.

 

hey you got the same oil pan as me

 

Excellent write up.

My only question is this. How did you fit the jack stands under the jack points on the side of the car? The front jack point is towards the middle of the car and you can't really get a floor jack to it.

Last time I jacked up the car from the side with a floor jack, there was not enough room next to it for the jack stand

 

The jack points really aren't that big of a landmark to go by. the area that your "supposed" to put the jack stand on is the same thing that the sideskirts bolt up to on the fit sport. The area your supposed to put the jack on is where i put the jack stands but i jacked up the car near the center of the front door. I watched very carefully though to make sure that i didn't warp the metal under the car. And when lowering the car down you have to be real careful because the jack stand opposite the side of the car your lowering will start to lean. So be careful when your lowering the car but do so very quickly.

EDIT:
Now that i think about it on the passenger side i put the jack right next to the resonater on the exhaust. I'll get under there again tomorrow and post pics. Its to dark to do that now.