The helms manual says that the front jack point is underneath by the radiator support. The rear jack point is in the middle of the rear bumper. There is a little hook thing that you can put a jack underneath. Or the sides there are 2 on each side. I personally haven's jacked up from the front yet(i have ramps) but i have used the sides and rear.

 

SWEET!

I didn't know about the jack points in the front and rear bumpers. I just used the ones behind the front wheels. Either way will work i'm sure but the easiest way to get to the oil pan is from under the front bumper so I just went with the side area for my stands.

 

when pouring the oil in (if you rotate the bottle 180 degrees so that the protrusion of the bottle is pointed down instead), it lets the air flow into the bottle as you pour, so the oil won't..."glug" or whatever the right term is. i've found this helps prevent spills. and tightening the oil filter as far as you can with your hand is more relative, don't overtighten it if you're a muscleman, it'll just make it harder to get the filter off next time, usually the instructions on the filter say to turn till the rubber gasket makes contact, then another 3/4 turn or something like that. (if you tighten too much you might need a oil filter wrench to get it off next time)

Great DIY Doc.

 

very good job. you did the drag race the manuals do the Granny walk. I was looking to see if you had folks check for a gasget for the filter..... I have experience with this problem. Well not myself but two people I know. the oil dumps out when the old gasget is left in then they panic...
One think I tought you would mention is to check that the plastic ring on the oil bottle stays intact and not fall in durring ol refill. You get an a++++++++

 

Holy Crap, Your Oil Is Draining Sideways!

 

Never use a fram filter. Its made of paper. Garbage. Great write up though!!

 

Yeah i know they are cheap filters but 90% of all filters are made of paper. Since this was my first oil change from brake in and i only have 3000 miles on the car i didn't mind. I'll be changing it again in another 3000 to synthetic and then i'll use K&N, Mobil 1 or Honda filters.

 

so are honda filters

 

I forgot to add one thing. I forgot to mention that the honda oil filters come with a new washer that goes on the drain bolt, remove the old washer and replace with a new one. I don't know a specific amount of time in which you should do this but a new washer comes with every new honda filter so i would say do it every time. When i do my next one i will have a ton of honda filters and will update my post.

 

Very nice write up,except let me just correct a few things,from a professional mechanic.

Numero uno,most important,for goodness sakes put a block or wedge under the front and rear of one of the rear tires.Remember,never ever EVER under any circumstances put yourself in the bite.I've seen too many people lose their lives because of simple things like this.

2.I know you edited it but don't forget to replace the aluminum drain bolt washer.Honda gives them for free,and just ask for a bunch there should be no problems.Also,no need for oil on the plug because aluminum and steel cannot bond together.If they get hot enough to melt,there are other problems

3.Dont tighten the bolt till you think it's tight.29 ft/lbs is the correct torque.Now i know a lot of people dont have a torque wrench,but if you are doing this you should.Usually you can pick one up from a local auto parts or equivalent store for cheap,you wont need a fancy expensive one.All bolts on your car have torque specs,you should be using them.Stripping the threads on the pan sucks,and its easy because they are aluminum.Trust me,steel always wins the fight with aluminum.

4.Do not use old oil on the new filter.Use only fresh clean oil.And READ THE FILTER!It will tell you "tighten until gasket touches,then tighten(either 2/3 or 3/4 or 1,whatever it says) turns."They dont say this to stare at it and have a good laugh.Under tighten and it will leak.Overtighten and it could leak,damage the gasket,Destroy threads,etc.Losing all your oil and then driving away with no oil will cause catastrophic engine failure.That's bad.

5.You wont find this anywhere,but this is a little advice from a mechanic.After an oil change,there is no oil in any of the galleries or bearings(except a very fine film) in the engine.Now when you start your car,it could be 10 seconds or possibly more before your bearings start seeing oil pressure.Now a trick i use on my cars(this is only for those of you that are ****)is to remove the main ignition wire from the coil and turn the car over for a few seconds to get a little bit of oil moving through the system.This is only for very **** people like i said,because the only advantage you will see is very far down the road,and you will probably not even have the car by then.But i still do it anyways.It prevents the bearings from running dry.

There are also dry sump kits you can get,but im not getting into them in this thread.

6.Last but not least,almost all the filters you by for any gasoline vehicle is a paper filter.That is because they are a surface type filter,not a depth type filter.Fram is a good choice,same as the honda one.

I dont mean any hard feelings by this post,i just thought i would help your thread out a little bit.

 

Yeah i disconnected the plugs that are connected to the spark plugs.If you aren't comfortable doing that or dont feel like it,then i'd say dont do it.Just trying to be helpful

 

I use standard ramps, with extensions that I made for them - so that my Fit can go on the ramps!

 

Amazon has a pair if plastic ramps with an 8" elevation that support 2400 pounds selling for about $32.00 per set. Free shipping within the U.S. by mail- I ordered a set yesterday specifically for oil changes.

 

Those things are super handy!Make sure you still block the rear tire

 

Its good to hear from an actual mechanic. I knew i would miss/forget to write soem things in my write up. good catch and thanks for the addition.

 

Oh its no problem at all

 

I just did mine recently. Really pretty easy, as always. I found it funny how tight the filter was installed by the factory. I had to use channel locks to undo it, since I didn't have a specal filter wrench.

I have always hand-tightened and never have leaks....although there was this time w/ my old mustang when I forgot to check for that filter gasket stuck to the block! The oil pressure burst through the two gaskets and dumped 5 qts of new oil on the garage floor. Found out that night how great cat litter is.

I used the Fram tough-guard filter, which appears to be a slight step up from the base model. I've never had issues w/ these before. But on other brand-x types (wal-mart super-tech) I had to actually take one back full of new oil because it's gasket was defective and was leaking everywhere. No more super-tech for me!

 

i agree with the whole write-up untill the start up. you should prime it first, start the car then shut off right away. do this till the oil light goes off. oh and the honda OEM filters are just as bad as those FRAM ones. buy the honda PDX filters which are fatter in size or buy the hamp ones.

 

Great right up but I do see 2 problems.

1. Fram filters are CRAP use Carquest Premium or Napa Gold, those filters are made by Wix.

2. Never use penzoil it's really crappy oil almost anything is better. I use the carquest brand in the civic and carquest synthetic in my Ion redline. There oil is Valvaline just with a different label on it.

My last oil change on the Civic I put in 1 quart Lucas Oil stabalizer and after 1k miles the oil still looks like new.

But this was a great write up and me and my wife hope to have a Fit later this year. It will be a Blue 5sp Sport.

 

What's wrong with Fram filters? I've used them with no issues. Also have used Wix and Motorcraft (back in the Mustang days). I really don't think a filter will make much difference, as long as they come from a reputable manufacturer.