Fit DIY: Repair & MaintenanceThreads discussing repairs and maintenance you can do yourself
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okay, here is my problem. i can't get used to the headlights working independent from the ignition. my old car (04 wrx) made it impossible to keep the headlights on...once the key was taken out, the headlights turned off.
can anyone help me with this? i want to make the power to the headlights tied into the ignition. with the key in any position but off, the headlights can be turned on, but if you turn off the car, the headlights go off.
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'07 SSM Sport AT
Scangauge II, Mugen door visors, Mugen radiator cap, Mugen head pillows, JDM hazard switch, Carryboy hood dampers, T1R LED dome/hatch lights, T1R brake cylinder socks, Australian 40 LED 3rd brake light, Honda luggage mat, PasswordJDM license relocator (driver's), Zeta dead pedal, bi-xenon 8000k HIDs
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okay, here is my problem. i can't get used to the headlights working independent from the ignition. my old car (04 wrx) made it impossible to keep the headlights on...once the key was taken out, the headlights turned off.
can anyone help me with this? i want to make the power to the headlights tied into the ignition. with the key in any position but off, the headlights can be turned on, but if you turn off the car, the headlights go off.
Watching this, as after years of Toytoa ownership, this is one of my biggest dislikes in the Honda, along with the doorlocks.
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Garrett
"Paradise, is exactly like, where you are right now, only much, much, better!"
Just use the Accessory side of the ignition switch as power for a relay. Then hook that power as the control power for an automotive relay that is used as a switch for your headlights (use on the normally-open contacts). What you'll want to cut is the wire that outputs from the headlight switch (in the 'on' position), and use those as the other leads to the relay.
A suggested relay is from Radio Shack: Catalog# 275-226, 12 VDC/30 Ampere SPST Automotive Relay. $6.49
The wiring diagram will be on the back of the relay's packaging. But here are better instructions (to avoid re-inventing the wheel):
Our Subaru Forester turns its lights off, which my wife and I love. With the Fit, once you take the keys out the car just calls you a ding-dong until you turn them off. Seriously, listen next time you get out, it keeps saying *ding* *dong* over and over
How hard is it to turn off the headlights with your hand?
Depends...
People like to upgrade their cars in various ways - some for convenience (automatic headlights), some for vanity (painted brake calipers). For instance, in your signature you state that you painted your calipers red. That seems nonsensical to most folks... It's all perspective.
i don't leave them on, i hear the beep and just want them to turn off with the ignition. i don't think it sounds lazy to add a mod that allows me to just keep the headlights on and not worry about turning them on or off.
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'07 SSM Sport AT
Scangauge II, Mugen door visors, Mugen radiator cap, Mugen head pillows, JDM hazard switch, Carryboy hood dampers, T1R LED dome/hatch lights, T1R brake cylinder socks, Australian 40 LED 3rd brake light, Honda luggage mat, PasswordJDM license relocator (driver's), Zeta dead pedal, bi-xenon 8000k HIDs
How hard is it to turn off the headlights with your hand?
Me, it is the convienience factor, but the Toyotas were the only cars with this. Actually, I pretty much "auto pilot" turn the lights on and off every time I drive the car, have been doing this for years.
I also cancel my own turn signals due to the first two cars I owned were Citroens without canceling indicators....and I have not owned a Citroen in many many many years....old habbits I guess?
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Garrett
"Paradise, is exactly like, where you are right now, only much, much, better!"
does anyone have any experience with this particular model? Would the Fit need the high voltage, low voltage, or is it entirely up to me?
"Choose high- or low-voltage model. High-voltage is perfect if you normally drive shorter distances. Low beams stay on at full power. Low-voltage is best for long distance drivers. Low beams stay on at 24% less voltage to extend headlamp life."
For anyone looking to enable Daytime Running Lights (DRLs) on your USDM Fit, take a look here. If the wiring harness has the correct connector, it may be possible to use a few Canadian parts to enable the DRLs. I don't want to hack up my soon-to-arrive Fit's wiring harness for a JC Whitney kludge if all I need are a few modules from Honda.
If any Canadians would like to help out their southern pals, it'd be swell if you'd price the needed parts (see below) for enabling our DRLs. I apologize for the South Park movie in advance if it'll help. Also, if you're a fine, upstanding, extremely attractive, very intelligent Canadian Fit owner that has wisely chosen to disable your DRLs, I might be interested in buying some worthless DRL components from you (PM me).
The USDM harness will need to have Connector 14P for any of this to work (it's under the left side of the dash, to the right of the steering column - I think). From the Helms diagrams, it appears you'll need a DRL Control Unit, DRL Relay, Low Beam Cut Relay, DRL CU mounting bracket, and a 10A fuse.
__________________ DISCLAIMER: Mod Claymore has deemed that any advice I give may result in a cloud of plastic smelling smoke, and I officially absolve FitFreak from responsibility for said advice or cloud of smoke, plastic smelling or otherwise. If I cite a source, be it another internet site or official Honda documentation, consider the information to be suspect and without merit. Proceed at your own risk, assume the worst, and remember that FitFreak shall not be liable in the event that anything goes awry.
but with having the headlight turn off when ignition off, don't you have to switch it off anyway if you were to drive around town during the day? I mean you don't HAVE to, but what's the point? sure it's kind of like DRL, but it's not.. they're brighter. I mean it's good if you forget but it's still a switch you're going to have to mess with whether it's day or night... it's almost as if you're just make the switch use opposite of what it's for.
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Engine mods: A-spec CAI and axle back (burnt)
Inside: JDM Passenger visor, Zeta dead pedal, JDM Squash, Skunk2 ss + knob
Shoes: 16x7(+45) Polished Rota Slips Pirelli 205/45
Suspension: Tanabe GF210
Lighting: 6000K HID low, 4300K custom yellow HID fogs, DC5 sidemarkers, independent fog light switch
Misc: 20% tint, Rear red H emblem
does anyone have any experience with this particular model? Would the Fit need the high voltage, low voltage, or is it entirely up to me?
"Choose high- or low-voltage model. High-voltage is perfect if you normally drive shorter distances. Low beams stay on at full power. Low-voltage is best for long distance drivers. Low beams stay on at 24% less voltage to extend headlamp life."
If you want DRLs, get the low voltage model. If you want your low beams on at 100% power, get the high voltage model. Their description would be more helpful if they simply referred to light output levels instead of talking about voltage.
I really don't like 100% DRLs, but that's your call. If the Canadian Fit DRLs operate like those on the USDM Civic, they use the high beam bulbs at a reduced output, which is a better solution IMO.
__________________ DISCLAIMER: Mod Claymore has deemed that any advice I give may result in a cloud of plastic smelling smoke, and I officially absolve FitFreak from responsibility for said advice or cloud of smoke, plastic smelling or otherwise. If I cite a source, be it another internet site or official Honda documentation, consider the information to be suspect and without merit. Proceed at your own risk, assume the worst, and remember that FitFreak shall not be liable in the event that anything goes awry.
If you want DRLs, get the low voltage model. If you want your low beams on at 100% power, get the high voltage model. Their description would be more helpful if they simply referred to light output levels instead of talking about voltage.
I really don't like 100% DRLs, but that's your call. If the Canadian Fit DRLs operate like those on the USDM Civic, they use the high beam bulbs at a reduced output, which is a better solution IMO.
Okay. Do you personally have one of those or are you just talking from experience? (It's just that if you have experience I have some questions that need answers)
Okay. Do you personally have one of those or are you just talking from experience? (It's just that if you have experience I have some questions that need answers)
I don't have this item, but the description states it's for 12V negative grounded vehicles, so it's not like there's a concern about whether you plan to use this on a 6,12, or 24V car. Looks pretty expensive, too.
__________________ DISCLAIMER: Mod Claymore has deemed that any advice I give may result in a cloud of plastic smelling smoke, and I officially absolve FitFreak from responsibility for said advice or cloud of smoke, plastic smelling or otherwise. If I cite a source, be it another internet site or official Honda documentation, consider the information to be suspect and without merit. Proceed at your own risk, assume the worst, and remember that FitFreak shall not be liable in the event that anything goes awry.
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