0W 30 Mobil 1 Oil

[bkrell]

A couple of years ago I and some other bitogers noticed CD-2 Street Legal Oil Boost. Nicknamed it SLOB. It's got a healthy kick of zddp. It was discontinued sold at Big Lots. Bitogers scoured them and bought it up.

But no, big mega doses of the stuff aren't really needed in the Fit. Any M1 will have an excellent anti-wear package. Valvoline adverts included.

[der Mond]

Thanks, potatoman, great answer; my concern came from a couple years ago when I owned a '87 911 Carrera and ZDDP was a big issue. Would you please elaoborate on "...VERY lightweight lock nut adjustment mechanism"? I assume it means just what it says, but are there implications for how much pressure to use snugging the locknut during my 100K valve adjustment? Of course, I'm hoping when I check the lash to find everything still within normal limits, but, if not, have you adjusted valves on the L15A1 and any tips? Sorry, I guess, this takes the thread in a new dirction, but hopefully not. I guess very lightweight may mean "take it easy" when adjusting valves.

[explosivpotato]

Originally Posted by der Mond

Thanks, potatoman, great answer; my concern came from a couple years ago when I owned a '87 911 Carrera and ZDDP was a big issue. Would you please elaoborate on "...VERY lightweight lock nut adjustment mechanism"? I assume it means just what it says, but are there implications for how much pressure to use snugging the locknut during my 100K valve adjustment? Of course, I'm hoping when I check the lash to find everything still within normal limits, but, if not, have you adjusted valves on the L15A1 and any tips? Sorry, I guess, this takes the thread in a new dirction, but hopefully not. I guess very lightweight may mean "take it easy" when adjusting valves.

That 87 911 probably had flat tappet lifters, which is why you were looking for ZDDP.

As for the adjustment mechanism, I meant exactly what I said: it's lightweight. That is, not heavy. Hydraulic lifters and pushrods tend to be relatively heavy pieces of metal that have to change directions very rapidly, which necessitates stronger valve springs.

I just adjusted my valves not too long ago (I only have 60,000 miles), and I do have a couple tips..

Make sure you have the right size feeler gauges, and the right size wrenches for the locknuts (there's a thread on this in the FI section, I believe). Most of all, take it slow - but not necessarily easy. The adjustment mechanism you're working with is made of VERY hard steel. It's unlikely you'll overtighten them unless you're the hulk or something. There is a torque spec, but I just snugged them up good and haven't had any problems since.

Just remember - if they're loose, they'll back out. If they back out, you can pretty much say goodbye to your cylinder head. Locknuts flying everywhere = very pissed off hamsters.

[der Mond]

Thank you. Out of curiosity, was this your first adjustment with that engine? What kind of lash did you find? Do you track the car? I rev my engine up close to redline fairly regularly, but was under the impression that the valves do not need attention unless they are noisy or at 100K.

[Carbuff2]

Originally Posted by der Mond

Thank you. Out of curiosity, was this your first adjustment with that engine? What kind of lash did you find? Do you track the car? I rev my engine up close to redline fairly regularly, but was under the impression that the valves do not need attention unless they are noisy or at 100K.

Haven't checked the Fit, yet, but:

We checked the Acura's valves (roller rockers) at 120K miles. Most were in spec, only had to adjust two or three, one or two thousands each. Since this is an automatic (wife's car) the car rarely sees high revs. (In fact, I run it up to redline occasionally, when the Regular Driver isn't looking...just to make sure the VTEC solenoid works!)



Checked the CR-Vs recently, also roller rockers (53K miles). Again, only found one or two outside recommended spec. The V is a manual and I run it up to redline on a regular basis.

Both these engines have the same adjustment interval as the Fit (noise or 105K IIRC)

++++++++++

On older B series engines, Honda recommended valve adjustment at 105K miles in North America. (Despite the fact that in the rest of the world, valve lash adjustment was recommended at 30K miles.) A percentage of CRV heads needed to be replaced as a result (Valve regression). THAT's why I checked the V's (even though mine has the K24 engine).

[Chairman Kaga]

Just wanted to add to the discussion...
Changed my oil Sunday. Advance was running a special - 5qts of any Mobil 1 and a Mobil 1 filter for $30. Sweet. Decided on the 0w20 after the comments in this thread. Can I just say changing the oil in a Fit is maybe the easiest change I've ever done, by the way? Maybe I just have long arms, but I could do it all without a jack or ramps, just by reaching underneath. Easy peasy. Anyway, maybe this is a placebo effect, but my engine seems to rev more smoothly now. Honda had done my previous changes using mystery oil, so who knows. But the 0w20 synthetic really seems to make my little motor happy. I don't have a real scientific fuel economy method, so that aspect will probably be a wash.

My question is - will my oil life meter "know" I'm using synthetic and adjust accordingly?

[bkrell]

Uh, no. It won't have a clue.

[AndrewBucklin]

What is the recommended oil change interval for the 0W 30 Mobil 1 Oil?

And how many miles does it take for the Fit's oil percentage number to go from 100% to 0%?

[jsusanka]

Amsoil is better than Mobil 1

[Selden]

Originally Posted by explosivpotato

...I don't care who you are or what you drive. 10 and 15w (cold weight) oils are absolutely unneccesary for any engine. I don't usually speak with absolutes like this, as it tends to make an ass out of me when I do, but I feel I can say this with confidence.

BMW specifies 20w-50 for their boxer motorcycle engines. One assumes that their engineers do so for a reason.

There has been an appalling amount of mis-information about oil viscosity in this thread. With a multi-viscosity oil, the first number is the actual viscosity of the base oil. Viscosity improvers (long chain polymers) are added to oil to the base oil to prevent it thinning out as much as it it normally would at operating temperatures. Thus the second number is the equivalent viscosity of the base oil at 100 degrees Celsius; that is, a 5w-20 oil is a 5 weight oil that flows like a 20-weight oil at 100 degrees celsius. Unfortunately, viscosity improvers can break down over time (the long chain polymers can be sheared), so as a general rule, multi-viscosity oils may be more subject to shearing as they age than single weight oils. Shearing breakdown is less of a problem with synthetics.

If Honda recommends 5w-20, I see no reason not to follow their advice, unless you are running in extreme conditions (Fairbanks in winter, or Phoenix in summer).

[mozarwasagenius]

Originally Posted by Chairman Kaga

Just wanted to add to the discussion...
Changed my oil Sunday. Advance was running a special - 5qts of any Mobil 1 and a Mobil 1 filter for $30. Sweet. Decided on the 0w20 after the comments in this thread. Can I just say changing the oil in a Fit is maybe the easiest change I've ever done, by the way? Maybe I just have long arms, but I could do it all without a jack or ramps, just by reaching underneath. Easy peasy. Anyway, maybe this is a placebo effect, but my engine seems to rev more smoothly now. Honda had done my previous changes using mystery oil, so who knows. But the 0w20 synthetic really seems to make my little motor happy. I don't have a real scientific fuel economy method, so that aspect will probably be a wash.

My question is - will my oil life meter "know" I'm using synthetic and adjust accordingly?

I recently changed from dealership "normal" oil to Pennzoil Platinum on two cars. On the larger car (V6) I didn't notice any difference. On the Fit, the acceleration and general smoothness of the engine seems to improve. My wife even commented on it. Placebo affect possibly, but I don't think so.

No difference in fuel economy btw

[Selden]

Originally Posted by Chairman Kaga

My question is - will my oil life meter "know" I'm using synthetic and adjust accordingly?

In a word, "No". As far as the meter is concerned, oil is oil. If you want oil details, send a sample off for analysis by Blackstone Labs.

[Selden]

Originally Posted by AndrewBucklin

What is the recommended oil change interval for the 0W 30 Mobil 1 Oil?

And how many miles does it take for the Fit's oil percentage number to go from 100% to 0%?

YMMV. Seriously.

[der Mond]

I used Amsoil in a Cherokee and had a problem with a sticky lifter taking its sweet time to pump up when cold. Changed to same viscosity Mobil1 and the problem instantly disappeared. That settled the Amsoil vs. Mobil1 debate for me.

How the car feels after oil change I suspect is likely voodoo magic. I put 0W-40 Mobil1 in my Fit for the hottest months and I swore it ran the best ever. I use 0W-20 in winter because if I can't plug in and it goes to -40F. and I need to get the car started for safety reasons I know it will start on 0W-20. It's as quiet as can be on 0W-40, and on 0W-20 especially just after driving it and stopping in the cold it ticks like an old Singer sewwing machine. But it always runs great!

[jsusanka]

Originally Posted by der Mond

I used Amsoil in a Cherokee and had a problem with a sticky lifter taking its sweet time to pump up when cold. Changed to same viscosity Mobil1 and the problem instantly disappeared. That settled the Amsoil vs. Mobil1 debate for me.

How the car feels after oil change I suspect is likely voodoo magic. I put 0W-40 Mobil1 in my Fit for the hottest months and I swore it ran the best ever. I use 0W-20 in winter because if I can't plug in and it goes to -40F. and I need to get the car started for safety reasons I know it will start on 0W-20. It's as quiet as can be on 0W-40, and on 0W-20 especially just after driving it and stopping in the cold it ticks like an old Singer sewwing machine. But it always runs great!

mobil 1 probably covered up the problem. if you ran amsoil long enough it would of eventually disappeared.

[Rygrego]

The one & only reason Honda, Ford & Chrysler use 5W/20 is for CAFE standards no other reason. They receive a fraction of a mile per gallon better, but with less protection. You decide what you want.

[Selden]

Originally Posted by Rygrego

The one & only reason Honda, Ford & Chrysler use 5W/20 is for CAFE standards no other reason. They receive a fraction of a mile per gallon better, but with less protection. You decide what you want.

I have read this before. If 5W or 0W oils worked so well, kind of makes you wonder why BMW still specifies 20W-50 for their boxer motorcycles.

[Rygrego]

[quote=Selden;741720]I have read this before. If 5W or 0W oils worked so well, kind of makes you wonder why BMW still specifies 20W-50 for their boxer motorcycles.[/quote]
You've got to compare apples to apples . An air cooled motorcycle is a whole different animal than a liquid cooled auto. The 5W , 0W or 10W is only for winter flow rates . The second number is the important one as its the one that shows the viscosity at operating temp . So the 0, 5 & 10W really wouldn't apply because who is crazy enough to be riding in temperatures cold enough to require those weights to start? Air cooled engines run at higher temperatures therefore require a higher viscosity oil than a more temperature stable liquid cooled auto engine. The whole point of my previous post was that I thought that a 5W-20 (the 20 being more the weight of concern) was too thin to protect an engine in the Southwestern U.S. in the summer time .

[Selden]

BMW boxers have been oil-cooled since the early 1990's, and many riders are crazy enough to be in the saddle (helped by heated handgrips, heated seats, and heated clothing) at temperatures well below freezing. My own personal limit is 25 degrees, but I'm an old wuss.

That said, I think we're basically on the same page; 0W or even 5W oil is more for fuel economy than for engine protection. That modern engines survive at all -- let alone for 100,000 miles or more -- on these watery oils is a testament to modern materials engineering and chemistry. When the time comes for my first Fit oil change, I'm going to go with 5W-30 winter and 10W-30 for Georgia summer heat.

[Selden]

I can't resist reposting this, re "crazy" (from a rider who lives in Michigan):

Down to about 40°f or so I just wear my outer coat over the liner & decent gloves..

If riding in 30°f to 40°f I usually wear a heavy sweat shirt or my insulated jacket inner liner over the Gerbings..

At temps below 30°f down to about 15°f I wear a turtle neck high quality Thinsulate long underwear top & seal my neck area with a ski band.. I also seal my wrist area to glove area to keep any air from entering there.. At these temps I also usually wear heated gloves & long underwear bottoms under my insulated riding pants.. I don’t use heated sox but toss a couple of hunting type chemical toe warmers into my boots (good for about 2-3 hours then have to replace with new toe warmers)..

At colder temps or very high humidity I also use a long Bacala under my helmet & anti fog on the face shield.. I also make darn sure to seal the neck & wrist area as well as seal the pants to boot area.. (a cold breeze up a pant leg or up a coat arm will cool your body off right quick)..

At temps below 0°f I usually keep the riding times to 1 hour or less between warming stops.. I have had some helmet frost & face shield freezing issues at those cold temps as well as keeping my feet warm.