DIY: How to Stiffen a GD3 Drive-by-Wire Gas Pedal - Page 2

Kyle is raaddd · #21 (**permalink**) 06-04-2009, 11:12 PM

Couldn't you just get a stiffer spring haha?

bowmanfurr · #22 (**permalink**) 06-12-2009, 03:10 AM

very good idea. parts were cheap and it only took a few minutes to install. i've got one question tho. will the extra tension affect or strain the cruise control?

seeremlive · #23 (**permalink**) 06-12-2009, 10:57 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by bowmanfurr

very good idea. parts were cheap and it only took a few minutes to install. i've got one question tho. will the extra tension affect or strain the cruise control?

Since this is drive by wire, there is no cable from the engine to the pedal and thus when the cruise is on the pedal is in the "home" or not depressed position. On older cars, when the cruise is on the pedal moved as the computer moved the throttle. This doesn't happen on a drive by wire car.

Try this:
Set your cruise some time at highway speed and slowly press the gas. You will notice that you have to move an inch or so before it actually changes the speed. On a conventional (throttle cable) car the throttle and the pedal are connected so any change in the pedal while the cruise is on, and there is a speed change.

chrisng · #24 (**permalink**) 06-12-2009, 12:50 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by bowmanfurr

very good idea. parts were cheap and it only took a few minutes to install. i've got one question tho. will the extra tension affect or strain the cruise control?

i had this question too... but its DBW, so its not a direct connection so it shouldn't right? it doesn't hold the cable like it does in a direct throttle car right? the above answer seems right. anybody know for sure?

Texas Coyote · #25 (**permalink**) 06-12-2009, 02:04 PM

I wouldn't have done the throttle spring trick if there was anything but positive gains to be had.... The spring tension is only on the rod to the rheostat switch that controls the throttle opening position by electric current.... It is so simple and the results are brilliant.. It has no more effect on the cruise than your right foot does when it isn't on the pedal.

secondspassed · #26 (**permalink**) 07-20-2009, 05:10 PM

someone wanna buy a bunch of the required parts, heat wrap the s-hooks and sell the kits to us for $10 shipped???? i'm feeling lazy this week...

Black3sr · #27 (**permalink**) 07-20-2009, 05:23 PM

I was hoping for the easy fix as well but ran into a couple of snags.

First there is an airduct sticking out and no way was can I get around OBDII diagnostics connector . It appears to be at a different angle

So I hooked it to the connector. That is OK but S hook goes right down to top of pedal. Any suggestions

Also I discovered a HUGE hole. See the arrow. I can see through to tranny or whatever. Is there a panel missing? I wonder if they took it out when undercoating? Could you have a look at yours anyone and tell me what should be there?

secondspassed · #28 (**permalink**) 07-20-2009, 06:31 PM

That's interesting.... it took me way too long to figure out your install was different because it's a GE. Good luck with that hole, that's pretty weird.

polaski · #29 (**permalink**) 07-20-2009, 06:42 PM

Yeah I was wondering what was up with that dash until I saw the GE taillight in his avatar.

That spring is MASSIVE. It looks like the first one I tried that was so stiff, hopefully yours isn't from as heavy a steel as mine was. I'd also be concerned with it being in the way of your foot that far down the pedal shaft. Notice I chose a high angle when choosing the spring retention hole (technical term!) that kept the other end as close to the throttle unit as possible. I would look into trying to connect to some of that dash frame tubing higher up. That might bring it away from that ductwork.

As for that hole, you're just seeing through to the passenger side, every honda has had that since they started putting in consoles. The tranny isn't under there, btw, its on the left side of the engine (if you imagine facing forward from the driver's seat) and the floor is completely welded shut so no, it doesn't open up to the underside of the car. They just don't put the plastic that far forward because only a few of us adventurous blokes actually crawl down there to see the gap.

Black3sr · #30 (**permalink**) 07-20-2009, 08:17 PM

Whew. You know it is a b***h getting older. I will attempt another on the back under the dash tomorrow. I do not contort well anymore. Hopefully there will be a spring retention location waiting for me with an arrow pointing to it. Should I find one I will post pics.

secondspassed - ah in my ignorance i did not realize those original pics were from a GD and not a GE like mine. Hell as of last week I did not even know there was a GD and GE.

polaski - thanks for the explanation. Like how do you go into the dealer and say there is a hole a way down there. Like what the ef were you doing down there they would say. I could always tell them I was re-engineering my gas pedal I suppose.

Anyhow the old guy is having fun with his new toy.

Thanks again for the help

Texas Coyote · #31 (**permalink**) 07-20-2009, 08:57 PM

[quote=Black3sr;701549]Whew. You know it is a b***h getting older.
I definitely can relate.... I looked at the instrument panels on line at Majestic Honda and it is almost a carbon copy of the GD3.... I couldn't see the part with the holes in the diagram for either of them as they appear to be molded into the plastic and are not a separate part.... If you have a short wiry friend with good eye sight and agile fingers, call him up and buy a six pack..... It was difficult for me but I am pretty crippled up and tall.....It was worth the effort...... Good luck.

secondspassed · #32 (**permalink**) 07-20-2009, 09:48 PM

Went ahead and did this mod today. $10 at my local Ace Hardware. They didn't have the exact spring the OP recommends so I used one that's 4.5" long x 15/32" diameter x 0.041" wire diameter. It works perfectly, no extra noise when pressing down on the pedal, nothing catches. I am happy with the spring tension, as well.

Black3sr · #33 (**permalink**) 07-21-2009, 05:30 AM

TC - good idea to have someone else do it cheap.

Secondspassed - was that on GD or GE? If GE pics please.

Texas Coyote · #34 (**permalink**) 07-21-2009, 05:59 AM

I looked at parts diagrams for both models to see if the breakdown of the parts would bee of benefit to you in showing what the part looked like and it's location and the part was not visible in the diagram for either. I googled Majestic Honda, they are the place to get parts and accessories cheaper than others. It Is listed under, Instrument Panel.

Black3sr · #35 (**permalink**) 07-21-2009, 12:26 PM

I think I did it. I took a test drive around the block. It may be a bit toos tiff but at my age better than too soft eh.

I found a U-bolt which went around the pedal rod easily and held the S hook as well. I have small feet so it is high enuf but could be higher if need be.

You old guys put a towel on the Dead Pedal to save elbow as it is fiddly getting a wrench on the nuts. One of those speed box ends would be perfect.

Now the pics

Now for you Canucks. Go to Crappy Tire in the hardware section and look for this stuff

secondspassed · #36 (**permalink**) 07-21-2009, 03:01 PM

My install was a GD, sorry Black3sr. Looks like yours is coming along nicely! I see from your newer pics the pedal on the GE is bent funny which has to make it harder. Looks like you got the issue solved, I would probably want to put it a little higher on the pedal but it seems that's easy enough to do with your u-bolt. You should make a new post for the GE guys in the 2nd Gen Forum (not that you're not welcome here as well....)

Black3sr · #37 (**permalink**) 07-21-2009, 04:31 PM

Will do secondspassed. Thanks again though for help.

I could move it higher but for now seems ok. May need it moved up for winter when I have the snowshoes on.

polaski · #38 (**permalink**) 07-21-2009, 08:31 PM

Glad you figured out a way to make it work. Nice idea with the u-bolt.

rodpaine · #39 (**permalink**) 08-05-2009, 07:42 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by polaski

Snip... Trust me, it doesn't take much spring tension. What seems super weak by hand feels super heavy underfoot. My first guess at spring tension felt right but took well over 30 lbs of force to even start depressing the pedal. It wasn't even driveable.

Yes, not much tension at all... infact, a small bungy cord attached to the upper part of the throttle lever by a small hose clamp also works well, in addition to being a bit more flexible in terms of its placement. Tie one, or a few knots in the cord to increase its tension to your foots preference.
FWIW,
-Rod

doubleR · #40 (**permalink**) 08-15-2009, 03:04 PM

This morning, I had the complete, exact opposite experience as Black3sR. I went to Lowe's to pick up the parts recommended by Polaski. They didn't have the 5" x 3/8" spring. I eyeballed the selection available, and I chose a 7/16" x 3-1/2" x .47" spring. Also, a package of 1-1/2" "S" hooks. Again, nothing scientific, just looking at the parts and guessing.

I got home, slithered under the dash, and took the spring and hooks out of the package. To my complete and utter amazement, this was one of those rare times in life that everything goes perfect--purely by accident. The length of the spring and hooks couldn't have fit (no pun intended) more perfectly. The spring nestled on the upper end of the gas pedal rod, next to that plastic piece. No issues with it sliding down to the pedal end whatsoever. Moreover, when I went for a drive, I discovered that the increase in tension on the gas pedal was also perfect. The best way I can describe it is as if I went to the parts department at the Honda dealer and asked for the "2009 Fit Gas Pedal Resistance Kit." That's how perfectly everything came together. And--it took all of about 60 seconds, tops, to complete the installation. Unbelievable!