Disclaimer: The following is provided as a GUIDE ONLY, and neither myself, nor FITFREAK.NET endorse, recommend, encourage nor take any responsibility for the outcome of someone else doing the following. This is an essential controlling device of the vehicle, and you follow these steps at your own risk!
***
Many of us Fit owners have vocalized our opinions on the low resistance of the go pedal, causing cramps when supporting the weight of the foot to hold speed, or wasted fuel by applying more throttle than intended. Compared with other gas pedals, the pressure required to depress it is actually quite normal; it's the angle that's the problem. Rather than having the foot supported by the floorboard and pivoting to press down, as in most vehicles, the more upright driving position places the foot's center of gravity beyond that of the heel, and that added weight counteracts too much of the pressure of the pedal and makes it
seem soft. Adding in the complication that the pedal requires very little movement down from its stationary position to hold the vehicle at any legal speed in the United States, preventing the original spring mechanism from compressing and developing sufficient force to support the foot, the cramping issue becomes a very real traffic hazard by impeding braking reaction time. This modification intends to add enough spring pressure to counteract the weight of the foot so that its neutral position balancing that weight with pedal pressure is at or near the required location for highway cruising speeds without requiring excessive force as the pedal approaches its lowest position.
PARTS REQUIRED
(2) steel s-hooks with a minimum 1/4" inner radius; overall length of approximately 2" preferred for ease of installation
(1) steel tension spring, 5" long x 3/8" dia x 0.047" wire dia, with 3/8" dia loops
(1) tube shrink tubing slightly larger than s-hook (optional)
Total cost for me: 0.49ea for the hooks, 2.29 for the spring, 3.49 for the pack of shrink tubing; grand total $6.76 USD
Time to install: maybe 10 minutes
INSTALLATION
1) Remove the cover under the driver's side dash. A knob next to and above the hood release must be rotated 1/4 turn to unlock; pop off a snap fitting in the center to release. Note the two places towards the firewall where it reattaches.
2) Move the driver's seat to its rearmost position and crawl down under the dash with back towards the floor. Looking upwards, find the OBDII diagnostics connector in line with the gas pedal. Above that, there is a metal welded bracket with 4 large holes stamped in it; place one of the s-hooks into the lowest one.
3) Hang spring on the s-hook, and bring it through in a way that it won't touch the OBDII diagnostic port harness.
4) If you wish to put shrink wrap on the pedal end of the other s-hook to protect the paint finish on the pedal post, do it now. Use a lighter or butane torch to shrink it to the hook surface and prevent it from sliding.
5) Put the metal end of the s-hook on the hanging end of the spring. Twisting the spring as little as possible, stretch by pulling the s-hook and hang on the pedal as high on the metal post as possible. Double check clearances around the spring to make sure nothing rubs or if the upper hook became disconnected. You may have to push the OBDII connector harness a small distance to provide clearance.
6) Sit in the drivers's seat in its normal position and check the feel of the pedal with the engine OFF. Make sure it still feels linear throughout its travel and not too stiff; if it is, you may have to use a small hook or chain link of your choice to place between the spring and the lower s-hook to reduce spring tension, depending on the spring you used. Remember, it will feel heavy at first, but try driving in a low-traffic environment and check where your foot weight balances out; if you have to remind yourself to keep pushing down to maintain speed, it's too tight.
Congratulations, you can now drive without both cruise and cramps.
Pics:
Linear Mode
