12V Socket in cargo area

Neil-in-Arizona · #1 (**permalink**) 07-18-2009, 12:44 PM

Anyone install a 12V socket in the cargo area? I want to run the line directly, through a fuse, to the battery - is this easily doable?

lhcbc · #2 (**permalink**) 07-18-2009, 01:01 PM

I would suggest coming off one of the rear screws on the engine compartment fuse box. For the cheapest cleanest install, I would just get a 12ga., 15ft. extension cord, and cut the ends off; or just buy that type cord from Home Depot or something. I would put an inline fuse just a few inches from the fuse box. Look at the floor to see how you want to route it. If you tape the end going back to about a two or three ft. 3/8" dowel, it may help you with some of the longer stretches under the carpet.
This should give you some ideas, anyway. Let's see what else people come up with.

Neil-in-Arizona · #3 (**permalink**) 07-19-2009, 12:16 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by lhcbc

I would suggest coming off one of the rear screws on the engine compartment fuse box. For the cheapest cleanest install, I would just get a 12ga., 15ft. extension cord, and cut the ends off; or just buy that type cord from Home Depot or something. I would put an inline fuse just a few inches from the fuse box. Look at the floor to see how you want to route it. If you tape the end going back to about a two or three ft. 3/8" dowel, it may help you with some of the longer stretches under the carpet.
This should give you some ideas, anyway. Let's see what else people come up with.

Thanks! Didn't think about going under the carpet. Was thinking of following the tail light harness back to the rear. Your way sounds easier

.

Black3sr · #4 (**permalink**) 07-19-2009, 06:31 AM

Why do you need it? Would just using a longer cord from existing dash outlet not work or do you need a permanent outlet?

Neil-in-Arizona · #5 (**permalink**) 07-19-2009, 12:26 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Black3sr

Why do you need it? Would just using a longer cord from existing dash outlet not work or do you need a permanent outlet?

On road trips (I'm retired), we like to carry a 12VDC Cooler, 12VDC emergency battery pack and 12VDC rechargeable spotlight. I don't like a cord running to the back - it just gets in the way. It's much cleaner to have a multiple outlet in the cargo area. That's the same way I have my Jeep Wrangler set up.

lhcbc · #6 (**permalink**) 07-19-2009, 02:06 PM

Let me show-n-tell what I did that you can expound on or just get ideas. I put an outlet at the back of my console. It would be just a little more involved going on back. I just used a little ring connector that I bent 90 dgs.and attached to one of the back "hot" screws on the engine compartment fuse box. By doing that, the top will fit snap back on if you trim it a little where the wire comes out and down. Then you go a couple inches to an inline fuse so that it is readily handy and you can tuck it away easily. I used cable ties to keep it clean. You can punch a holw in the grommet for heater hose (near middle), to run wire inside. Then I just took the four screws loose on the console and tucked the wires inside. (You can go under carpet or whatever to go all the way back. I put an outlet at the back of console. (If you do that, mount it about an inch lower than I did, so it doesn't get in the way of the seat when folded down.) I also came off that same wire with an inverter I put under the passenger seat. (I have a laptop but no 12vdc adapter, plus I can use other 110vac things in my car.) Here's a couple of pics:

Note the red wire w/fuseholder.

Note the part that needs to be trimmed off of fuse box cover.

This is just where I put mine, you can just go under carpet from the firewall.

Black3sr · #7 (**permalink**) 07-19-2009, 04:18 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Neil-in-Arizona

On road trips (I'm retired), we like to carry a 12VDC Cooler, 12VDC emergency battery pack and 12VDC rechargeable spotlight. I don't like a cord running to the back - it just gets in the way. It's much cleaner to have a multiple outlet in the cargo area. That's the same way I have my Jeep Wrangler set up.

Neil that looks like a neat install and should work for you. You could put in a couple of outlets on the back of the console maybe. Bigger fuse maybe? Don't want to burn it up eh.

secondspassed · #8 (**permalink**) 07-19-2009, 04:33 PM

Why didn't you run power from the fuse box inside the cabin? Seems a lot easier. Is there any benefit to going from the engine compartment fuse box? Nice install location, though, I've been thinking about doing that (the magic seats hitting that area is one of my concerns).

lhcbc · #9 (**permalink**) 07-20-2009, 02:48 PM

I'm more comfortable with a ring connector and solid screw mount than I am w/push on connectors when it comes to power. Though under dash seems simpler, it's not as easily accessible and the way I have it with a couple zipties and running through an existing grommet is clean and maintenance free. (..plus, I'm over 50, broke my back in the past and it's just not nearly as easy crawling under the dash.) Since I sometimes may overload an accessory outlet, I like being able to easily get to the fuse.
Even where my console mount is, as long as I plug the accessory in first and then drop the seats flat, it doesn't dislocate the plug. That's why I haven't bothered to move it. Neil, I hope some of this helps.

kenchan · #10 (**permalink**) 07-20-2009, 03:27 PM

for me it depends on how much power i would draw. if more than 10A i would run a new wire directly from the battery through the firewall under the passenger side carpeting to the back of the car.

but looking at how tiny the battery is, i may load up a secondary battery (deepcycle) in the cargo dedicated to powering stuff.

Neil-in-Arizona · #11 (**permalink**) 07-20-2009, 09:33 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by lhcbc

I'm more comfortable with a ring connector and solid screw mount than I am w/push on connectors when it comes to power. Though under dash seems simpler, it's not as easily accessible and the way I have it with a couple zipties and running through an existing grommet is clean and maintenance free. (..plus, I'm over 50, broke my back in the past and it's just not nearly as easy crawling under the dash.) Since I sometimes may overload an accessory outlet, I like being able to easily get to the fuse.
Even where my console mount is, as long as I plug the accessory in first and then drop the seats flat, it doesn't dislocate the plug. That's why I haven't bothered to move it. Neil, I hope some of this helps.

Ihcbc,

Your install inspires me to do it the same way - mount a socket in the center console. The 2009 is a bit roomier in the backseat area, which will help.

I used to install Marine Electronics on King Crab boats 30 years ago, and have no love for installations anymore. But, I'll get off my retired butt and tackle this one of these days.

Thanks for the pictures and input.

secondspassed · #12 (**permalink**) 07-20-2009, 09:52 PM

On the 2009 you guys have a great spot for installing extra outlets right next to the stock outlet. If I had one I would do one there as well as the back of the console, if possible.

Can we get a photo of the rear seats folded down with that outlet? I was thinking for me I will wait until I get the zeta armrest and then mount the outlet higher up on the console, so it's going into what was the rear cupholder area and is higher, more forward and more out of the way.

lhcbc · #13 (**permalink**) 07-20-2009, 10:17 PM

I'm not trying to argue; but, that screw I used is connected to a 12v buss, straight from the battery. Add up all the fuse amperage in the box and you get the idea. It's basically a hard wire to the battery for all intents and purposes. Generally speaking, anytime you hang another wire off the battery, it just doesn't look as clean; (sort of jury-rigged). I used to do that when I was young. In the pictures I took of my fuse box, I pulled the red wire and fuse holder out of how it was tucked in, so maybe you can't tell, but when it is all tucked away, you don't readily notice it.

When the seats are down, it covers the rear outlet where you can barely reach under and unplug it. I don't think you can really get a picture of the outlet.

Anybody that has a clean install, please take pictures so we can all get new ideas!

secondspassed · #14 (**permalink**) 07-21-2009, 12:18 AM

I was just playing with my rear seats and it looks like you must not have your center headrest installed. With it installed there is barely enough space with the seats down for the protrusion of the actual socket, let alone a plug in it.

However, I don't see this as necessarily a huge problem. Even the JDM center console has cup holders back there that I don't think can be opened with the rear seats folded down. That location still seems like the best one for a second jack, did you use the OEM one?

lhcbc · #15 (**permalink**) 07-21-2009, 01:13 AM

Yea, since I rarely ever carry anyone in the back seats, I took all three rear headrests off a long time ago, because I routinely flatten the backseats and with them on they were sort of in the way. I never had to concern myself with them for this install. Good catch on your part! (thumbs up)!

I found an OEM socket for a CRV rear on eBay for the really good price of about $5. The OEM ones are much nicer than any aftermarket ones I've seen. I doubt it matters much what kind of vehicle it would come out of, but don't know for sure. This one fit like it was made for my use.

lhcbc · #16 (**permalink**) 08-08-2009, 08:44 AM

That looks great. Just goes to show that you have several fairly simple options to get power to the back. It is definitely something that our little Honda is sorely missing.

Shaggs2Dope · #17 (**permalink**) 08-08-2009, 01:33 PM

I want to put one to the rear seat and also a second one in the rear cargo area, as on long trips I also run a jumpbox/spotlight(you never know what you will need on a long trip, and fate rewards the prepared) and also like to keep my phones/ipod/zune charged. And with the Passport 8500 plugged in, it cuts down on aux power even thought I have a splitter, since the radar and sirius use that up.

I will probably run a 4gauge amp wire to the back, with a distribution block, so when I finally add some beat it will be pre-wired, but that OEM honda 12v socket and cover looks really good, and right at home, like it should have been there in the first place, so I will likely do the same thing, and then hook up a 3 way splitter with an on/off switch so I can leave all the stuff charging in the back, and turn it on or off when I want, even with the ignition off.

Shaggs2Dope · #18 (**permalink**) 08-08-2009, 03:23 PM

Yea, They do just use the phone jack. I have 2 8500s I swap between a few cars. Did you run it to a switched ignition source with a relay or just do a fuse tap on acc in the dash?

Shaggs2Dope · #19 (**permalink**) 08-08-2009, 08:36 PM

Cool, that's what I figured you did. It's the easiest way to do it honestly. I need to do some dammed projects

interestingstuff · #20 (**permalink**) 09-16-2009, 07:46 PM

I'm thinking this is a cool idea (not that I'm going to do this anytime soon.)

However, I'm thinking that the battery already has quite a load on it. (Too many stories of a car not starting after a very short period of time running the radio, etc.) Not to mention what I believe is personal experience with seeing the low power of the battery.

Might it be possible instead to find a hidden cavity (behind one of the plastic bits in the cargo area, perhaps?) in the cargo area, install a battery in there (perhaps a deep cycle battery), and install outlets? For charging you could use a solar charger in a window or on the roof or something...

You could also possibly hook this battery up to the security system (assuming you have one) also as a secondary backup incase a thief cuts the battery cable to shut down the alarm.