DIY: GD Clutch Hardline
#25
06-21-2011, 06:18 PM
I need to do this this summer. Although I've been driving my Fit for a year now.. I still find the Fit's clutch engagement is not to my liking. Gotta make everything feel solid and to my liking.
Hey Apexanimal I gotta question on the "Clutch Pedal and Clutch Pedal Adjusting Bolt Adjustment".
If you adjusted the pedal of the clutch wouldn't the clutch be riding until it wears out? A little confused about the diagram you posted.
Hey Apexanimal I gotta question on the "Clutch Pedal and Clutch Pedal Adjusting Bolt Adjustment".
If you adjusted the pedal of the clutch wouldn't the clutch be riding until it wears out? A little confused about the diagram you posted.
#26
06-22-2011, 10:13 AM
the clutch pedal adjustment is designed just to take out unnecessary play at the BOTTOM of the pedal travel... the entire pedal gets adjusted down, so it doesn't affect the engagement and holding travel at all...
the trick is to adjust it down, start the car, and see how much play you have at the very bottom of travel to where the clutch just starts to grab... if it's too much, adjust it down, etc...
the trick is to adjust it down, start the car, and see how much play you have at the very bottom of travel to where the clutch just starts to grab... if it's too much, adjust it down, etc...
#27
06-23-2011, 06:32 PM
The parts to do this arrived today, I'm stoked to get everything installed. Thanks for the write up!
#30
07-28-2011, 10:34 AM
Could someone look over my purchase list and see if it looks ok?
I hope to just replace the CDV and the rubber line. The new system will hook to the clutch master cylinder and to the hard line at the bracket on the tranny.
Thanks!
-------------
There are several different lengths avaliable (would need to measure it off to make sure it is long enough) (24" = $15.95)
http://www.summitracing.com/search/Brand/Aeroquip/Product-Line/Aeroquip-Teflon-Racing-Hose-Hydraulic-Brake-and-Clutch-Couplings/Hose-Size/minus-3-AN/Hose-End-2-Angle/90-degree/?Ns=Rank%7cAsc&autoview=SKU
(straight end for the connection at the bracket and a 90 degree end at the master)
(For the connection to the hard line on top of the tranny vs. running the whole way up to the salve cylinder)
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/RUS-R41411/ ($17.06)
Female 10mm x 1.0, Male -3 AN, Steel, Chrome, Each (Designed to fit Japanese style inverted flare)
(For the connection to the master cylinder)
http://www.anplumbing.com/search/index?search_text=305-03M121 (click the goodridge tab)
12 MM X 1.0 male bubble flare to -3 male steel (305-03M121) $14.99
I hope to just replace the CDV and the rubber line. The new system will hook to the clutch master cylinder and to the hard line at the bracket on the tranny.
Thanks!
-------------
There are several different lengths avaliable (would need to measure it off to make sure it is long enough) (24" = $15.95)
http://www.summitracing.com/search/Brand/Aeroquip/Product-Line/Aeroquip-Teflon-Racing-Hose-Hydraulic-Brake-and-Clutch-Couplings/Hose-Size/minus-3-AN/Hose-End-2-Angle/90-degree/?Ns=Rank%7cAsc&autoview=SKU
(straight end for the connection at the bracket and a 90 degree end at the master)
(For the connection to the hard line on top of the tranny vs. running the whole way up to the salve cylinder)
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/RUS-R41411/ ($17.06)
Female 10mm x 1.0, Male -3 AN, Steel, Chrome, Each (Designed to fit Japanese style inverted flare)
(For the connection to the master cylinder)
http://www.anplumbing.com/search/index?search_text=305-03M121 (click the goodridge tab)
12 MM X 1.0 male bubble flare to -3 male steel (305-03M121) $14.99
#31
08-01-2011, 10:41 PM
^ looks good...
double check the length you need, and double check the adapter you need for the tranny connection... i didn't do that one so just be sure...
do a write up on here once you're done...
double check the length you need, and double check the adapter you need for the tranny connection... i didn't do that one so just be sure...
do a write up on here once you're done...
#33
10-31-2011, 08:19 AM
Not yet... I am still sitting on my thumb. 
I flushed the fluid and the 1st gear clutch release shudder/studder (from a stand still) is still there. My worry is that even with the new line in place the issue won't go away.
Has anybody removed the CDV and had the clutch engagement improve?
I flushed the fluid and the 1st gear clutch release shudder/studder (from a stand still) is still there. My worry is that even with the new line in place the issue won't go away.
Has anybody removed the CDV and had the clutch engagement improve?
#34
10-31-2011, 09:07 AM
yes... me...
the shudder isn't the issue of the cdv... it's an issue of an overly light pressure plate for the type and friction of the clutch plate...
the cdv has more to do with the timing of the releases and engagement points...
the shudder isn't the issue of the cdv... it's an issue of an overly light pressure plate for the type and friction of the clutch plate...
the cdv has more to do with the timing of the releases and engagement points...
#36
10-31-2011, 03:23 PM
removing the cdv WILL help you modulate the clutch better so by using some skill you can avoid it...
#37
12-19-2011, 08:17 AM
2 of the 3 pieces arrived this past week. 
I hope to install it over the holiday and will have a DIY/photos/parts list.
IIRC it was ~$67 total (shipped).
I hope to install it over the holiday and will have a DIY/photos/parts list.
IIRC it was ~$67 total (shipped).
#40
01-13-2012, 10:02 PM
thank you sir...
i also HIGHLY recommend the following:
adjust the clutch pedal down (takes out a lot of unnecessary play at the bottom)
fill/stiffen the front trans mount
good luck/post pics
i also HIGHLY recommend the following:
adjust the clutch pedal down (takes out a lot of unnecessary play at the bottom)
fill/stiffen the front trans mount
good luck/post pics
