DIY: GD Clutch Hardline
#63
Ended up ordering all the parts for the CDV at ANplumbing.com
Parts are
989537 Inverted Flare: 10mm x 1.0 I.F. AN Thread: -3 $4.52
305-03M121P AN Thread: -3 Metric Size: 12mmX1.0 $14.99
63011720 Hose End A: -3 St. Hose End B: -3 90 Deg. $20.88
Total came to $53 dollars shipped to florida I think it was around $70 if i had it shipped to canada.
Parts are
989537 Inverted Flare: 10mm x 1.0 I.F. AN Thread: -3 $4.52
305-03M121P AN Thread: -3 Metric Size: 12mmX1.0 $14.99
63011720 Hose End A: -3 St. Hose End B: -3 90 Deg. $20.88
Total came to $53 dollars shipped to florida I think it was around $70 if i had it shipped to canada.
#66
Finished this DIY today and I must say that I like how the clutch pedal is now, a little bit of a cable clutch feeling.
To anyone planning to tackle this task: USE A FLARE NUT WRENCH TO REMOVE THE FITTINGS! Well, at least on the one that connects the hard line to the rubber line. I stripped mine but was able to crack it open with a vise grip, already ordered a replacement part but with a 2-month wait.
I also ordered the 20" SS line, IMO the 18" should work perfectly. 20" has a lot of slack though, if you want that.
To anyone planning to tackle this task: USE A FLARE NUT WRENCH TO REMOVE THE FITTINGS! Well, at least on the one that connects the hard line to the rubber line. I stripped mine but was able to crack it open with a vise grip, already ordered a replacement part but with a 2-month wait.
I also ordered the 20" SS line, IMO the 18" should work perfectly. 20" has a lot of slack though, if you want that.
#68
Just an update:
Took the GD out around the block to do a test drive and I must say I really like how the car wants to jump forward and go as opposed to the old hesitant feel with the CDV in it (IDK if I explained it right).
Apexanimal is right as well, that pedal free play is insane. Gotta have to do it next time I work in the garage.
PS: No leaks so far.
Took the GD out around the block to do a test drive and I must say I really like how the car wants to jump forward and go as opposed to the old hesitant feel with the CDV in it (IDK if I explained it right).
Apexanimal is right as well, that pedal free play is insane. Gotta have to do it next time I work in the garage.
PS: No leaks so far.
#70
I noticed sometimes the clutch/pedal makes a rattling sound, is that normal now since there's nothing to suppress the clutch line?
I've adjusted the pedal last weekend, still need to get used to it a bit. Plus I haven't driven the GD in about 1.5 years.
I've adjusted the pedal last weekend, still need to get used to it a bit. Plus I haven't driven the GD in about 1.5 years.
#73
It doesn't happen every time but I'd say it would rattle when I keep it at a certain rpm (i.e. around 3k-4k). Then when I accelerate it goes away.
#74
iirc my line was rattling against a hardline or something and would show up at certain rpm's... get in the engine bay and rattle the line and things around it... then zip tie to your hearts content
#76
You were right, I just moved the SS line away from the hard lines and the rattling is gone. Almost drove me nuts. Thank you!
#78
So out of curiosity, I was looking at a stock setup and here is something that crossed my mind but haven't seen anyone do it.
Would it work if someone removed the banjo bolt from the center of the delay valve and just placed it on top of the master cylinder?
Just roughly looking at it, there should be plenty of hose to go along with it.
Seeing the adapter in the master cylinder makes me think it was originally designed with that banjo bolt in mind but then Honda did a revision and added the delay valve.
Any thoughts or someone willing to try?
You wont have to buy any parts, just simply turning wrenches.
Would it work if someone removed the banjo bolt from the center of the delay valve and just placed it on top of the master cylinder?
Just roughly looking at it, there should be plenty of hose to go along with it.
Seeing the adapter in the master cylinder makes me think it was originally designed with that banjo bolt in mind but then Honda did a revision and added the delay valve.
Any thoughts or someone willing to try?
You wont have to buy any parts, just simply turning wrenches.
#79
So out of curiosity, I was looking at a stock setup and here is something that crossed my mind but haven't seen anyone do it.
Would it work if someone removed the banjo bolt from the center of the delay valve and just placed it on top of the master cylinder?
Just roughly looking at it, there should be plenty of hose to go along with it.
Seeing the adapter in the master cylinder makes me think it was originally designed with that banjo bolt in mind but then Honda did a revision and added the delay valve.
Any thoughts or someone willing to try?
You wont have to buy any parts, just simply turning wrenches.
Would it work if someone removed the banjo bolt from the center of the delay valve and just placed it on top of the master cylinder?
Just roughly looking at it, there should be plenty of hose to go along with it.
Seeing the adapter in the master cylinder makes me think it was originally designed with that banjo bolt in mind but then Honda did a revision and added the delay valve.
Any thoughts or someone willing to try?
You wont have to buy any parts, just simply turning wrenches.
P.S. I replied to you on the Spoon wing thread. Let me know.
#80
Id like to know how to take the extra play out as well, I (think) by the feel of it, that I have about an inch of free movement before the clutch pedal firms up and need to push the clutch nearly to the floor for full disengagement where most I;ve experienced before disengage a little over half way... This issue has been throwing me off like whoever adjusted it had a long clutch leg and short gas leg, I cant find a happy medium here, either the gas pedal needs to be further away or the clutch needs to disengage sooner because I'm pointy toe'n the clutch yet trying to hold back from the gas, just really awkwards as my sitting position is comfortable driving, just issues with finding that comfort zone in the pedals