the reasons for this diy are two-fold: it removes any flexible section in the line and thus gives slightly better response, and it removes the delay valve as seen in this thread...

i'm not responsible for anything you order, anything you do, or anything other than myself... diy at your own desire...

IMPRESSIONS:
the clutch feels snappier... the clutch will still shudder (that's a pressure plate/clutch compound issue) but you can actually feel where to slip it from a standstill and between shifts... i've only driven it once since, but i like it... i'm going to adjust the clutch pedal next and improve the feel further...

PARTS LIST:
-FBPA0039-48 --- this is a 48" -3an ss line with one straight end and one 90* end... you could possible use the 42" line b/c i had some excess in my 48", but i don't know...
-966303ERL --- this is a -3an 90* coupler
-641431 --- this is a two pack (2) of -3an to 10mm x 1.0 inverted male adapter... you'll ONLY NEED ONE... so either find somewhere that has just one, or buy the two pack and sell the other to someone who needs it...
--3an to 12mm x 1.0 inverted male adapter... either 305-03M121 at anplumbing.com, or contact Brian at bandrfittings.com...
-latex gloves... for real...
-paper towels or shop towels... don't skip this... otherwise your car will be punished...
-basic dot 3 brake fluid... you can do the honda stuff or the castrol lma stuff from your local parts store... your call...

HOW-TO:

1. remove intake (2, 10mm bolts)



2. remove battery tie down, battery, battery tray, and displace as many of the wires around the driver's side strut as possible (2 deep 10mm bolts, and 3 12mm bolts)



3. remove the two 12mm bolts which hold the clutch delay valve (cdv) to the frame rail



4. remove clutch reservoir lid

5. place lots of paper towels below the clutch master cylinder (cmc), and remove the 12mm clutch fitting (silver/shiney) from the larger clutch adapter (dark grey) on the cmc




6. install new 12mm to -3an adapter onto clutch adapter (this can also be done by removing the retaining clip and removing the clutch adapter...)



7. install the 90* coupler onto the adapter... don't worry about which way it faces, b/c you can swivel the clutch adapter on the cmc...

8. remove the 10mm bolt holding the intermediate clutch bracket



9. remove the passenger side 12mm bolt holding the clutch slave cylinder (csc) onto the bell housing, and loosen the drivers side

10. place a few paper towels under the csc, and remove the 10mm clutch fitting from the csc adapter



11. remove oem clutch line from vehicle, and laugh at it... it helps with the tears... if you have a beer, now would be the time to pound it...



12. install the -3an to 10mm adapter onto the csc adapter



13. install the 90* end of the ss line to the csc adapters



14. reinstall 12mm csc bolt and tighten both bolts down

14. route the ss line as you will through the engine bay, being careful not to place it near anything that needs to move or that will see a lot of vibration...



15. install the straight end of your ss line onto your cmc adapters



16. zip tie the line if need be (i did...)

17. bleed the clutch line using the 8mm bleeder valve on the front of the csc, and look for any potential leaks...



18. profit

 

hell yeah!!!

+++++ rep

 

thanks... nice comment lol

 

Suscribed
How's driving now? is it a lot harder in traffic jams? is there a big improvement in response???

 

personally i'd say it's easier in stopandgo b/c you can actually feel where the clutch is engaging... clutch response is, of course, better...

the next step in this process is to adjust the clutch pedal down more... there is so much empty space below the engagement point that seems like wasted movements to me... and it seems easy enough and i've done it on every car i've driven and it's been quite worth it...

 

So I can start planning this one out, how much did you spend on parts? I'll probably wait til fall to do it since its getting hot out now.

 

i spent a shit load... but partially b/c i ordered parts that didn't work out...

i got the hardline, 90* coupler, and 10mm adapter from summitracing, and i used the 12mm adapter from anplumbing... but realistically expect about 75 shipped... i think that's a good ballpark figure...

 

Totally worth it IMO. Wonder if I could find a way to make this work using my existing SS clutch line to cut back on costs. I think it would require cutting off the banjo flange thats already on it and using AN fittings. I really wish I understood those better.

 

yeah... an fittings are a thing in and of themselves... plus when you combine -an, npt, metric, and sae, it's a great mix for confusion and frustration...

are you talking about the ss line that only replaced the rubber section? if so, what kind of end does it have on the cdv?

 

Yup, thats the line, its got a banjo on the CDV, which is why I suggested cutting off the banjo and running an AN fitting. Though it would probably be easier to just run the one line from MC to SC and not have to worry about an extra leaking point in between.

Edit**
Since I don't usually buy from the first place I see...
FBPA0039-48 Performancepartsforless.com 14.99, free shipping
966303ERL Performancpartsforless.com 11.99, free shipping
641431 Race-Mart 7.28

Summit prices...
FBPA0039-48 22.95
966303ERL 15.95
641431 11.95

 

nice find

you wouldn't have to cut the banjo off... just find a banjo bolt, then most likely a female adapter with the same thread as the bolt to a male end, then a female/female (junction adapter) to connect the cmc hardline to your other adapters...

i do think the entire thing would be easier since we've done all the leg work... but it's your call... good luck

 

The free play is to keep a clutch from burning out.

A general rule-of-thumb for clutch pedal free-play is about 1/2 in. Since the clutch system works on mechanical and hydraulic leverage from the pedal-fulcrum length and the master/slave cylinder diameters and heights, slight distances and forces on the pedal result in great force on the throw out bearing and clutch. Pressing the clutch down pries away the throw out bearing to disengage the engine from the transmission. In a normal setup, having the clutch pedal up means the throw out bearing is squeezing the clutch onto the transmission, and keeping the transmission connected to the engine.

Limited or no free play means the clutch will be constantly slipping or nearly so.

How much more wear or damage to the clutch depends on the driving route, vehicle tolerances, etc. Also, since the Fit's clutch pedal doesn't automatically adjust as clutch material gets used up, free play and the distance until engagement does change over time.

 

right, but i'm talking about the excess "throwing-out" of the bearing and the bottom of the pedal...

as the clutch is set up right now, it excessively pushes the bearing and disengages the clutch more than it needs to... not that it's a bad thing... but it creates a lot of extra pedal movement that isn't really needed and is harder to time quick shifts...

i've modified the clutch on my ptgt like this, as well as our old subaru clutch... works great...

 

Interesting. I missed where you said "below" the engagement point.

So you're [strike]extending[/strike] shortening the clutch pedal rod to get the pedal lower?

 

^ you got it

it's designed from factory to be adjustable... i just need to get under there and do it... you have to adjust the up-switch as well as the mc rod... shouldn't take 15 minutes though...

 

Are you talking about the kind of clutch line that j's racing make? the one that replaces only the line in the middle?

J's Racing The X'tream Honada Ride

Does it make a noticeable difference? i know techna-fit makes this for about 25$... what i'm concerned about removing the clutch damper, is when i put other mods, like a new clutch, a lighter flywheel, etc. i want the car to remain driveable...

 

i would assume replacing the soft line would help somewhat, but i too was more concerned with the cdv... the added stiffness in the line was an added bonus in my book...

 

Good to see you got this done! I dropped the ball on this with all the trouble I was having with the supercharger... I ended up just giving the car to the wife to drive once I got it running back then. I've since upped the car to 10psi, went with an AEM F/IC etc... but with all that done and the motor mounts done its really time to get this done to the fit. I'll be going from the hardline to the master though. Again good job getting it all worked out.

 

thanks for all your help as well...

i've been keeping up on the progress with your ride and i REALLY want to do the motor mounts... i went to the flexane website and didn't see a 60a hardness though...? i think 80 was the softest i found...



relevant to the thread: i did lower the clutch pedal and it is much much much improved... it was easy and didn't take much time at all...

 

Did this to my Fit a couple weeks ago; it's noticably easier to drive smoothly without the CDV in the way. Thanks for the parts list, apexanimal. It was great not to have to take the clutch hydraulics apart more than once or buy parts and return the unused ones.

I've got an extra 3an <-> 10mm x 1.0 inverted male adapter left over. If anyone needs one, PM me.