"Swirl City" Black 2008 Club Racer (CR) S2000
#1
"Swirl City" Black 2008 Club Racer (CR) S2000
Hey Everyone,
While I was down in Murfreesboro TN for the Import Alliance meet, I had a client with a couple of S2000's that he wanted Tru shined up. The White one was finished and now it was time for the black one. Forgive me for not getting as many pics as I would have liked, but it was somewhere around 98 degrees with crazy humidity outside and my camera was acting up.
So Lets see what I was working with.
For the wash method I wanted to try out some new Chemical guys Bugg & Tar remover and I applied it via the Foam cannon to let it dwell on there and eat at all the bugs.
While that was dwelling I sprayed some P21s wheel gel onto the wheels to let it do its job.
Then I rinsed off the CG B&T remover. and the bugs would just melt right off. the dilution was about 2oz CG B&T to 10oz water. So far it works really well.
Then I Refoamed the car with Dawn Dish detergent and began the washing with a single bucket with grit guard and 100% washmitt.
the wheels were scrubbed with a EZ-Detail brush, these brushes are great for getting into just about any type of wheel. and the P21s wheels gel made the brake dust come right off with ease.
The car was then rinsed and dried and then clay bared with Claymagic Blue fine clay with Showroom shine as lube. The reason I chose Show room shine is because it doesn't add any protection to the surface, which would make it more difficult to polish out to a Tru_Shine.
So now that the car has been cleaned, I can start the second stage of the prepping.
I started by removing the rear wing because there were just as many swirls and scratches under the spoiler as there were on top.
Then I began taping up all plastic trim and moldings.
For the buffing and polishing, I used my Flex 3401 and Griots 3in orbital.
I used a variety of pads in 6.5in and 4in sizes:
Lake country Hyrdotech Cyan
Lake country Hydrotech Tangerine
Lake country Purple Foamed Wool
Surbuff R series
LC orange
LC blue finishing
Since Honda clear coat is so soft, most of the paint was corrected with M205 and Tangerine pad. but some defects were just too deep and needed to be cut with some PFW/M105 and I also tried out the new Surbuff pad. I'm still not to sure how i feel about the Surbuff pads on the FLEX as the M105 dries up real fast and leaves some sever marring, I used Meguiars M105 for compound and Meguiars M205 for polish.
Look at how all the Surface defects reflect all of the light in all different directions making the paint dull and faded!
The front fender had some real bad scratches on it. It looks like some one tried to sand on certain areas and didn't even bother buffing it off.
I wetsanded all of the areas with 2000 grit paper .
Here are the variety of pads that were used.
It was going on Midnight and I didn't have time to take all of the pics that I wanted but the car was sealed with Black Fire Wet Diamond paint sealant. We had to get up at 5:30am to get ready for the Show and I still had to do the final walk around to make sure all of the jams and crevices were cleaned up.
Here are some of the Final shots in the Garage and the Show.
There wasn't much sun out while we were at the show, but I wasn't complaining because It felt real nice and I was able to enjoy it. here are what little sun shots that I got to capture. also the owner requested no tire shine for the tires.
Thanks for viewing and have a blessed day!
#8
I'm not detail expert but he probably used Dawn because he wanted to remove everything, grease, wax, etc... Since he planned on claying and sanding the car anyway it wouldn't really matter. I doubt he would use regular dishwashing soap for a car that didn't need the extra amount of cleaning the SK2 did.
#9
I'm not detail expert but he probably used Dawn because he wanted to remove everything, grease, wax, etc... Since he planned on claying and sanding the car anyway it wouldn't really matter. I doubt he would use regular dishwashing soap for a car that didn't need the extra amount of cleaning the SK2 did.
This is correct. Using strong detergents can strip any and all protection off the of the paint, giving me a true surface to polish. If I buff on top of the waxes and contaminants, then I wouldn't be truly correcting the paint to it's optimum potential and it makes it very harder and time consuming to buff and polish out.
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