Stutter, rough idle, stalling
#21
I have a Sport slightly below 90K miles. Starting this past weekend, my Fit would begin to stutter while idle. If I am at a stop light or waiting to pull out, my car would stutter for a few seconds before going back to normal. This does not occur when I am accelerating or actually driving.
After reading this thread, I brought it into the local Honda dealership and pointed out that it could be the ignition coils. They blew me off stating that if the check engine light wasn't on, it's not the ignition coils. Two days later after running diagnostics and test driving the car, they found no issues.
What happens on my way home from the dealership? The stutter continues.
Just to point out:
After reading this thread, I brought it into the local Honda dealership and pointed out that it could be the ignition coils. They blew me off stating that if the check engine light wasn't on, it's not the ignition coils. Two days later after running diagnostics and test driving the car, they found no issues.
What happens on my way home from the dealership? The stutter continues.
Just to point out:
- I've had the battery replaced within the past year.
- All proper maintenance has been done on the car.
#22
I have a Sport slightly below 90K miles. Starting this past weekend, my Fit would begin to stutter while idle. If I am at a stop light or waiting to pull out, my car would stutter for a few seconds before going back to normal. This does not occur when I am accelerating or actually driving.
After reading this thread, I brought it into the local Honda dealership and pointed out that it could be the ignition coils. They blew me off stating that if the check engine light wasn't on, it's not the ignition coils. Two days later after running diagnostics and test driving the car, they found no issues.
What happens on my way home from the dealership? The stutter continues.
Just to point out:
After reading this thread, I brought it into the local Honda dealership and pointed out that it could be the ignition coils. They blew me off stating that if the check engine light wasn't on, it's not the ignition coils. Two days later after running diagnostics and test driving the car, they found no issues.
What happens on my way home from the dealership? The stutter continues.
Just to point out:
- I've had the battery replaced within the past year.
- All proper maintenance has been done on the car.
#23
Ignition coils are actually easy to replace, there's just one bolt holding them down actually. If it's your ignition coils, one major way to diagnose it would be with turning on your A/C and see if you get a misfire symptom or not. If you need to warm up the car and when you stop at a stop light/sign the car stalls then it's your valves actually.
A great way to show the issue as I discovered the other night with my stepdad is when I switch the car from neutral to drive. If I sit the car in neutral for a minute or two and then switch the gear to drive, the stutter occurs right away.
#24
Coil packs
I'm a little late to the party here but I was doing some searching for my current issue and came across this (unrelated.) when I got my 07 fit used a few years back with 61,000 miles on it I had this same issue. When I took it for a test drive when I was stopped I felt the stutter I just chalked it up to the AC. A couple weeks later after I had purchased it the stutter got worse and the engine light was coming on. Took it back to the dealer I got it from and they told me to take it to Honda. Honda adjusted the valves and said the problem was still there. Replaced the coil packs and that fixed it. They were nice enough to throw those in for free even though I was the 2nd owner and it was 1000 miles outside the warranty and the dealer I got the car from reimbursed me for Hondas charge for adjusting the valves.
#26
I'm a little late to the party here but I was doing some searching for my current issue and came across this (unrelated.) when I got my 07 fit used a few years back with 61,000 miles on it I had this same issue. When I took it for a test drive when I was stopped I felt the stutter I just chalked it up to the AC. A couple weeks later after I had purchased it the stutter got worse and the engine light was coming on. Took it back to the dealer I got it from and they told me to take it to Honda. Honda adjusted the valves and said the problem was still there. Replaced the coil packs and that fixed it. They were nice enough to throw those in for free even though I was the 2nd owner and it was 1000 miles outside the warranty and the dealer I got the car from reimbursed me for Hondas charge for adjusting the valves.
I just need to figure out where to take mine to get my problem solved since my local dealership doesn't want to help me.
#27
Which dealership do you go to, Honda West or Findlay? I've found Honda West better than Findlay.
#28
I sent Honda West an email from my experience and this is the BS response I got back:
"I am sorry that you felt you were treated poorly on your last visit. I would like to change that and I will make sure that you will be treated fairly and respectfully if you choose to come back
I would like to look at your vehicle again for you. I will do this at no charge as far as diagnoses. I will say that I do not want to just replace coils because the internet community states that’s the problem to the concern. What would happen if we replace the coils at the cost of over $600.00 and you still experienced the same concerns. If you can leave your vehicle here for 1 full day. I will address your concern. Please get back with me when you have a chance."
$600 to chance the coils? Thanks, but no thanks.
I'm headed to an independent mechanic based upon recommendations from co-workers.
EDIT: Scratch that. After reading all the various other threads in this forum, I am going to do it myself with the help of my stepdad. Just purchased NGK (6774) IZFR6K13 Laser Iridium Spark Plugs from Amazon alongside HITACHI IGC0053 coils from RockAuto.
Last edited by cupboardoflove; 07-31-2014 at 03:29 PM.
#29
Here’s my experience with the “stuttering” problem. At 117K miles my car started stuttering immediately after filling up at my regular gas station. I immediately went to the parts house and purchased a Lucas gas additive. I ran about 100 miles but with no improvement. Then, after reading all the blogs on this site, I saw that the majority of solutions seemed to be coil(s) replacement. From that, I purchased a new coil from the dealer.
I started by changing out the #1 coil, then ran the car but got no improvement. Then, I changed coils #2 and then #3 with the same new coil I had purchased, still no improvement. Before I changed out the #4 coil, I pulled the 1st three original coils and carefully removed both seals in all of them. I applied a very thin coating of dielectric grease inside the top seal housing, on the entire outer post and on the 1st inside 1/4 “ of the end that goes on the plug but NOT on the metal cap that fits over the top of the plug. Then, I put the new coil into #4 and went out for a test drive, under load. The car ran perfectly! So, to prove coil #4 was defective, I put the old #4 coil back in and took the car out again. Surprisingly, the car ran perfectly now even with all the original coils back in the car. I even ran it up near the red line in the lower gears on the road and it ran flawlessly. So, either the original coils(s) defect has corrected or it has intermittent failure which may reveal itself again or by applying the dielectric grease to #1 - #3, I have fixed the defect which was in one of coils #1- #3. My guess is the dielectric grease fixed the problem. Why? Because when spark increases it seeks the path of least resistance. If the original dielectric grease n the spark post (if any) has degraded, the spark will bypass and ground out to the block, usually intermittent or under load. This was so true of the high performance cars of the 70’s and early 80’s. So, I would recommend before investing in new coils, at least try the dielectric grease on the old coils, run them up and see what happens. Permatex 67 VR dielectric grease is just one of many.
Back to the new coil…. I noticed a difference in the physical characteristics of the new one. It has what appears to be a small vent hole in the housing which protrudes out slightly. Looking at the brand name they are the same, Hitachi. The 1st set of numbers are the same, CM11-110. However, the 2nd row of numbers are entirely different, 6802C on the old coil, 11823F on the new coil. I am going to try and find out what these mean. If Hitachi has put an engineering change into the new coil when they knew the original one was defective, this is a problem they should have revealed.
I started by changing out the #1 coil, then ran the car but got no improvement. Then, I changed coils #2 and then #3 with the same new coil I had purchased, still no improvement. Before I changed out the #4 coil, I pulled the 1st three original coils and carefully removed both seals in all of them. I applied a very thin coating of dielectric grease inside the top seal housing, on the entire outer post and on the 1st inside 1/4 “ of the end that goes on the plug but NOT on the metal cap that fits over the top of the plug. Then, I put the new coil into #4 and went out for a test drive, under load. The car ran perfectly! So, to prove coil #4 was defective, I put the old #4 coil back in and took the car out again. Surprisingly, the car ran perfectly now even with all the original coils back in the car. I even ran it up near the red line in the lower gears on the road and it ran flawlessly. So, either the original coils(s) defect has corrected or it has intermittent failure which may reveal itself again or by applying the dielectric grease to #1 - #3, I have fixed the defect which was in one of coils #1- #3. My guess is the dielectric grease fixed the problem. Why? Because when spark increases it seeks the path of least resistance. If the original dielectric grease n the spark post (if any) has degraded, the spark will bypass and ground out to the block, usually intermittent or under load. This was so true of the high performance cars of the 70’s and early 80’s. So, I would recommend before investing in new coils, at least try the dielectric grease on the old coils, run them up and see what happens. Permatex 67 VR dielectric grease is just one of many.
Back to the new coil…. I noticed a difference in the physical characteristics of the new one. It has what appears to be a small vent hole in the housing which protrudes out slightly. Looking at the brand name they are the same, Hitachi. The 1st set of numbers are the same, CM11-110. However, the 2nd row of numbers are entirely different, 6802C on the old coil, 11823F on the new coil. I am going to try and find out what these mean. If Hitachi has put an engineering change into the new coil when they knew the original one was defective, this is a problem they should have revealed.
#30
When the coils age out, the grease is a bandaid, you've got micro crack in the plastic and rubber, there are some internal electronic parts as well in the coil that age. The packs are in the hottest part of the engine bay and bake out. I suspect if you could correlate the driving style, environment etc, that in city low speed traffic stop and go ages them out faster than a guy driving the freeway getting better air flow through the engine bay, outside temp plays as well. This problem is not unique to the fit, Toyota MR2's, FX anything with eh toyota twin cam had the same issues, porsches, bmws, audi etc have also all had issues.
The grease fills the cracks and helps insulate.. But they fail eventually.
The grease fills the cracks and helps insulate.. But they fail eventually.
#31
Similar issue on my 2007 Honda Fit Base model. At approx 270,000 miles, the engine would stutter under load / acceleration. Error code showed misfire on three cylinders. The actual problem was a bad coil on cylinder three. I replaced all four coils and plugs and now its runs great. I bought a new set of four aftermarket coils off ebay for $60 total. Sounded to cheap to be true but so far so good.
#32
07 honda fit sputtering
I have 07 Honda Fit with 90k miles.
I had the same problem as many of you posted here. I just put new ignition coil and fix everything. My Fit is driving great again.
buying four ignition coil will cost about $200.
BTW when you change the four coils change the spark plugs too it will cost you about $10 for four spark plugs
Changing the coils is very easy. The four coils are setting on top far back of the engine easy to reach.
I had the same problem as many of you posted here. I just put new ignition coil and fix everything. My Fit is driving great again.
buying four ignition coil will cost about $200.
BTW when you change the four coils change the spark plugs too it will cost you about $10 for four spark plugs
Changing the coils is very easy. The four coils are setting on top far back of the engine easy to reach.
#33
Try plugs, then coils, then value adjustment
The advice on this website is great! In summary, and what worked for me on my Fit at 90k miles that was running rough, is first check the coils and spark plugs (4 each). A diagnostic test easily tells you if one is defective (or just replace all of them - but don't buy cheap ones - I got a bad coil with a special low price for four on the Internet). The plugs and coils are pretty easy to replace (good videos on YouTube). If the plugs and coils are okay, have the valves adjusted, which it sounds like needs to be done on all high mileage Honda Fits. It is not easy, and takes about 3 hours, so it is pricey to have done, but my Fit is running great now!
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