Thanks for that.


Everytime I hear a squealing noise — the air brakes on a bus, for example — I think it might be my rear drums. I know, I'm an idiot. But this is my first vehicle with drum brakes. However, my front pads lasted to approx. 45k mi. One of the four was well worn (right front).

 

Ok....I know I'm really late replying to this.
But hey, brakes need replacing repeatedly. There's no doubt replacing the
Drums is way harder than the discs. Having said that, if anyone is going to,
It's definately worth getting the tools made for drum brake replacement.
They're pretty cheap. It's mainly the spring pliers that help. The spring washer tool helps as well. You can get by without them, but as I think the op says, it's really frustrating.

 

Fred, I've seen such tools in our auto parts stores, but, just to be clear, could you post pics?

 

http://img545.imageshack.us/img545/9559/qmvu.jpg

hopefully this image works.
this is a combo tool, good for stretching the spring, and the end is for the spring washer.
it really does make what can be a very frustrating job, much easier.

 

Image works, Fred.

The spring needs to be stretched, not compressed?

Any other special tools needed?

Thanks!

 

Just to be clear, I haven't changed fit drums yet. I've only had my fit for 3 weeks now. So I'm going from civics, sentras, altimas, sunbirds etc, that I have changed them on. But I figure it's basically the same.
There are springs in both compression and "stretch" ( I doubt that's the correct term). If you look at harbour freight or something similar they sell a kit with three tools in it.
No doubt you can do the job without. As I have. But every time I do it with vicegrips and a screwdriver I end up pretty frustrated. It really is a three hand job. These tools just make it way easier to do the springs.

 

Thanks!

 

That tool has been around for a long time and works great. You hook one end of the spring into the shoe then hook one side of the tool opened up to the backing plate with the free end of the spring on the other jaw of the tool. Then squeeze the handles together and it draws the free end of the spring toward the "Post" where is goes. Wrap the spring around the post and done.

The UFO cup end goes over the pin and cap arrangement that holds the shoes to the backing plate. Put the UFO over the cup and turn it to remove to free the shoes.

 

caeaves thanks for the pics and thanks for the order needed in removing the springs. very helpful post

 

Thanks for this tutorial

 

is there a quick and easy way to do drum adjustments? I know about turning the star wheel and all that. But my question is:

It's hard to do adjustments from underneath (and behind the wheel!) your car when you only have a floor jack. Is there a better way?

How do you know hen the brakes are properly adjusted.? People say spin the wheel! But if a strong guy spins it it might make more revolutions than a weaker guy..

 

Pardon if I'm repeating anything...


First, remove the drum.

**NEW STEP** Clean any rust from inside the drum's 'groove' (around the backside of it)

Lubricate the points where the shoe meets the backing plate. (Use hi-temp Brake Grease. Apply to both sides of a letter opener or similar, jam between the two surfaces.

Move the Star Wheel so that MORE threads are showing. (different direction each side on many cars) Do two or three threads at first.

Reinstall the drum. You may have to wiggle & jiggle. (the BRAKE shoes, you Perv)

Step on the brake pedal (you DO have the car on jackstands, right?)

Then apply the parking brake one click.

The drum should turn **almost** all the way around after you let it go. Won't turn? Too tight. Spins more than 1 revolution? Too loose.

If you want, release the parking brake. It should then spin all the way around, for sure.


OPTIONAL: re-fit the road wheel, go for a short drive. Work the parking brake once or twice (the lever should be nice & tight). After a couple stops from 30 MPH, feel the center of each rear wheel. Should be equally cool on both. (Fronts will be warmer)

LAST: Drink a celebratory Adult Beverage.

Hopefully this works for ya.

 

Is it a big problem if the adjustment seems a bit tight? The car drives but the ebrake feels tight. I'm hoping after driving a bit the pad and drum will wear and adjust. Is this a fair assumption?

 

The way to test is the OPTIONAL part I mentioned.


If the rear shoes are indeed too tight, the wheel hub will be hot after a drive. (because the brakes are dragging)



the e brake will always feel tighter after a brake shoe adjustment. That is because they have less travel before they engage. If you or a previous owner adjusted the e brake cable without adjusting the shoes first, it may need to be slackened. But as long as it clicks a couple times it is functionally OK.

 

Hey guys can I get your opinion on the state of my shoes?





They look pretty much weak to me. Anyone know how much life they have left?

 

They are fine. New, they are not too much thicker than that.

Remember, the fronts do most of the braking (unless you adjust the rears on a regular basis, I do ours yearly).

Just lubricate the shoe-to-backing-plate contact points, adjust the star wheel at the bottom for slight drag with the parking brake at one click, and clean the groove on the inside of the drums.

 

Appreciate it. We were getting some severe shake when braking through the mountains. The front pads are perfect and the rotors look ok... The tires are pretty much end of life, so maybe that's part of it. Also the tires were way under inflated during that trip.

 

Rotors can LOOK O.K. but be out of true. (Only takes a few thousandths to make them shake) Rust on the outer edges can cause braking wobble also.

Read this:
-Warped- Brake Disc and Other Myths

Oh, and be sure to torque the lug nuts evenly.




Tires will usually shake whether or not the brakes are applied, swap yours front to back to see if the symptom changes. I bet not.

 

Is this the same for the second gen fit? cant find any DIY for 2nd gens

 

You are a hero! I've yet to do this.