Hello all,

You should periodically check and adjust the valve lash on your Fit because occasionally the valve clearance will fall out of factory spec. Try to incorporate this important procedure into your major service maintenance ritual:


1) Remove the cylinder head cover:


*diagram courtesy of hondapartsnow.com

2) Set the No. 1 piston at top dead center (TDC). The ''UP'' mark on the camshaft sprocket should be at the top, and the TDC grooves on the camshaft sprocket should line up with the top edge of the head.

3) Select the correct thickness feeler gauge for the valves to check.

4) Proper valve clearance should be:

• Intake: 0.006–0.007 in. (0.15–0.19 mm)
• Exhaust: 0.010–0.012 in. (0.26–0.30 mm)

**valve positions for reference during adjustment**

5) Insert the feeler gauge between the adjusting screw and the end of the valve stem and slide it back and forth; a slight amount of drag should be felt.

6) If too much or too little drag is present, loosen the locknut, and turn the adjusting screw until the drag on the feeler gauge is correct.

7) Tighten the locknut to 10 ft. lbs. (14 Nm) and recheck the clearance. Repeat the adjustment if necessary.

8) Rotate the crankshaft clockwise. Align the No. 3 piston TDC groove on the camshaft sprocket with the top edge of the head.

9) Check and if necessary, adjust the valve clearance on No. 3 cylinder.


**Shown here: Rotate the crankshaft clockwise. Align the No. 3 piston TDC groove (A) on the camshaft sprocket with the top edge of the head**

10) Repeat this procedure for cylinder No. 4 and then for cylinder No. 2.

 

First step should be to remove the intake manifold. That's usually a pain in the rear. I only removed the upper half and it worked out well for me. Be careful not to scratch the mating surfaces of the two pieces of the plastic intake manifold.

 

D50boy, I've been doing the adjustment every 30K now and I'm due for another. I've always removed the entire manifold but I'm not sure I want to reuse that gasket for a third time. When you remove just the upper half do you replace or reuse the rubber o rings?

 

I reused mine.

Some of my experience:


It is much easier to use a set of bent-tip feeler gauges than straight ones.



I like the "Go-No-Go" method of setting clearance. So on the intake where the spec is .006 - .007", a .006 should pass but a .008 should not. Takes some of the "artisan" out of the procedure.

Make sure you have some sensor-safe RTV for "the corners" of the valve cover gasket (you will see where the factory applied theirs)




BTW I thought the valve adjustment was well worth it. Many were out of spec even though I wasn't experiencing any problems AT ALL. I plan to check clearances every 50 - 60K miles.

 

I re-used the rubber gaskets. If they work, they work. If it runs like poo, they'll get replaced. The lower half is still a little bit in the way, but it is less annoying than trying to remove the whole thing. Remember not to overtighten the connecting hardware because it's plastic.

 

1) What method are you guys using to rotate the crankshaft?

2) This DIY is a start. But it would be nice if someone could provide:

a) a full list of tools required for the job;

b) a full list of replacement parts (assuming that you want to replace everything and not re-use, say, gaskets. I never re-use gaskets. I'd rather spend money than redo the job.).

Thanks!

 

I used a 1/2" socket and ratchet to turn the crank.

Tools you'll need is a 19mm or 17mm socket for the crankshaft, 10mm socket, an extension, a ratchet for the sockets, a 10mm wrench*, a flathead screw driver*, a set of feeler guages, and a small tube of RTV sealant. Optional is a small mirror and gasket scraper. I used the mirror to get a better view of the cam gear marking positions. The sealant is for the timing case to head seams.

* Amazon sells a special tool for about $10 that could be used instead.

I re-used everything so I couldn't provide a list of gaskets.

 

Thanks, 'boy!

I asked about the crank b/c I wasn't sure if there was enough clearance to get a socket and ratchet in there. Guess there is.

"timing case to head"? Am I taking off more than the valve cover? I know I have to remove a bunch of stuff just to get to the valve cover, but the timing case cover?

Again, thanks.

 

You have to remove the RF wheel, then remove a couple of the plastic retainers that hold the plastic splash shield in place so it will flex out of the way without breaking. Crank the engine from the wheel well. (Use safety stands, of course!)

 

Thanks,'buff!

'Boy, is that how you did it?

 

BTW, in the tight confines of the Fit, you must also remove the upper intake manifold (seeing as how it is on TOP of the valve cover)


I did ours last summer and didn't need to replace any gaskets.


To the Materials list, I would add a sheet of corrugated cardboard and pen. I've learned that it is useful to "draw" an outline of the parts, then poke the hardware into the cardboard. Makes it easier to remember where everything goes.....

(Please don't tell me I can't drink BEER while repairing cars...)

 

Is it possible to turn the crank by leaving the car in gear and turning one of the drive wheels (assuming the drive wheels are off the ground)?

 

^^ You have more control by turning the crank with a ratchet. The engine must be turned in it's normal direction, never backwards...

(Applies to manual transmission cars)

 

Roger that, 'buff.

Thanks.

 

Okay. I finally had a chance to look at the Service Manual.

Questions:

1) You guys were able to do the valve adjustment by removing only the Intake Manifold Chamber, and leaving in place the Intake Manifold itself? (Page 9-2)

2) With regard to the adjustment itself, you turn the crank sprocket to "UP," and adjust #1 intake and exhaust valves, then turn the crank to #3, then #4, then #2, always adjusting both intake and exhaust on each cylinder while at that position? (Page 6-8, 6-9)

3) Now I see where the book calls for some liquid gasket. Are you guys using the garden variety Permatex stuff? Maybe this >> Permatex Form-A-Gasket® Sealants - form-a-gasket #1 sealant11 oz tube | Wayfair ?



I'm sure I'll have more questions. Thanks for your patience!

 

HEY! No Fair doing that unless the engine is in 1000 pieces. Isn't that part of the Bro Code????


Correct. Only the top part of the intake needs removal on USA cars. I had the throttle body and air filter box off as well, to allow extra clearance.

Yes, that makes for less required rotation of the engine. At those points, all the valves in the cylinder to be adjusted are closed.

Yep, that stuff works fine.

Have Fun, let us know how many valves need adjustment. Ours needed most of them done. By contrast, our CR-V only needed 3 of the 16 adjusted at 55K miles. At 100K miles, our Acura's were all pretty close too.

 

You can leave the wheel on and all plastic in place. there is a perforated hole in the plastic to access the crank bolt. just put the car in neutral.

 

Thanks, Buff.

It seems strange to be adjusting exhaust and intake valves on a cylinder with the crank in the same position . . . but I guess we are only turning it a quarter turn anyway (?).

The throttle body is connected to the end of the Intake Manifold Chamber, right? Does it all come off as one piece?

N.B. I only cheated a little. I made sure that I only understood half of what I read.







I might as well change the plugs, while I'm at it. Are you going to tell me if I need a socket wrench with a hinged head to reach the plugs, or do I have to be an adult and do a search on my own?

 

Thanks, Giggles.

 

Who do you guys like for OEM parts?

I'm off Bernardi, and HandA don't have what I need.


How about

Honda Parts at HondaPartsDeals.com: Honda Accessory, Honda Car Parts, Honda Auto Parts, Honda Accord Parts

or

https://www.hondapartsunlimited.com/

??


Thanks!