My dealer, though very friendly, missed many things before I took delivery. For instance, the antenna was not connected and the mirror brace was not installed. I think there is a good possibility the ILP was never performed either. Therefore, I think it will likely be beneficial to me if I do it myself.

 

Easy there, son. I know all about all you list. Nothing new there. My habits are fine, my pressures are perfect, I don't weight over 200 lbs, and I was loaned a car last year by AHM that returned a mixed average of 32 mpg. My car isn't getting near that, so something is indeed different. When you have a more interesting comment, let me know.

 

I have difficulty trusting them as well. My gf's vehicle was almost destroyed after the dealer performed an oil chance and didn't put the filler cap back on. Shocking, but true.

 

and you suppose resetting the ECM will fix that?? well you know what? it doesnt.

what octane gas are you putting in there? same gas station? air filters clean, etc etc? When we had our Fit, we didnt get 30mpg all the time. 28mpg was the more usual with city driving.

its funny how you suppose every car should yield the same gas mileage. every car is different, deal with it. you might have gotten a bad Fit.

 

I bought an A/T Fit about 3 months ago and I am getting about 22-23 mpg city driving and 33+ highway which is not fine at all because I do mostly city driving. I have filled the gas more than 10 times and the result has been very consistent. I drive normally, sometimes abusing the gas when I'm in a hurry but usually not. A/C on about 25% of the time.

I bought my car used and it came with 3000+ mileage. Now the mileage is 5900+. Maybe the last owner has a bad driving habit, I dunno. I would like to do this test to see if this will improve it.

Problem is, I have no idea what is:

Can someone explain it in human terms because I'm not very knowledgable about car. Plus, if anyone can explain step by step on what to do in this procedure, I will certainly report my findings back.

 

Well, I just did the ILP on my car this morning. I never heard the radiator fan turn on after waiting about 15 minutes, so I just let continued to let the car idle for about an hour. Once it was done, I took the car out for a drive. It actually seemed to be shifting a little smoother, as the shift from 1st into 2nd used to be a little rough but it isn't anymore.

Before I disconnected the battery, I heard a high-pitched beeping noise from in the engine, but it wasn't there once I shut the car when I was done. Anyone know what this was from and if I should be concerned about it?

 

First interesting thing you've said.

I used to track and road test 150 cars a year. I've forgotten more about FE tracking than you'll learn in a lifetime.

The procedure was done by the DEALER, not me...

 

I 'inadvertently' reset my Ecm/Pcm by having the battery disconnected for at least 20min while installing my Voltage Stabilizer. Needed to reinput the radio code and everything.

If any of you are contemplating a voltage stabilizer (a quality one) I would suggest to get it. So far after I filled up - I already have 90miles and didn't even hit 3/4 tank yet... the best mileage so far? Was it the Ecm/Pcm reset? Was it the stabilizer? Who cares???? hahaha. Fit runs smoother, quicker accel and shifts smoother too! Do both of it!!!

 

You're not suppose to just let it idle, according the Helm maual, you need to open throttle to 3k rpm and let the fan cycle once, and then another time...do that and the fan will come one fairly quickly - the correct way

 

There are a few versions floating around the net on how to do the ILP. From what I've read and as I've come to understand it, running the engine to 3000 rpm is just to warm the engine so the fan comes on. This is just a shortcut, not the only correct way.

 

I know everyone is more worried about their mpg. But mine is the mpg as well, but mostly trying to get the fit to shift smoother from 1st to 2nd in my auto. Lizardking is Fit an auto? If your problem is like mine I might have to do the reset this week. I try to gas the car smoothly but still there is a jerky motion when doing it. Lizardking did it eliminate teh jerkiness?

 

Doing the ILP didn't change the jerkiness I've experienced going from 1st to 2nd, but I have found 2 ways around it (in S mode, it isn't bad in D mode):

1) When stopped, shift from 1st to 2nd. I usually feel it a little, but not as much as when moving.

2) Let my RPMs get fairly high (3-4k) before shifting to 2nd. I usually do this when the car has dropped to 1st but I haven't come to a complete stop. Going very slow in 1st and shifting to 2nd will make the car lurch and actually slow down.

After doing the ILP, I HAVE noticed my mileage steadily increasing, but I can't say if that was due to doing the ILP itself, or if it's the car breaking in.

 

Now that I've officially crossed the 10,000 mile mark, My first real tank I put in a little over 10 gallons and was at 210 miles in town. Now, even with my horrible driving habits the mileage is going up, I'm at about 27 MPG mixed 50/50 city/highway... three-four tanks ago it was 24. As for weather playing a part... it's actually gotten colder here in the last few weeks.

Is it a bad thing that I've had my car for four months and I'm at 10,000 miles?

Oh and about the TDI, yes it really does get that mileage, but what you don't understand is... it's a VW... all fuel expenses you save you must put into maintenance/fixes.

 

This is what alldatadiy.com says aboout it:

ECM/PCM Reset
HDS Clear Command

The ECM/PCM stores various specific data to correct the system even if there is no electrical power such as when the battery negative terminal is disconnected. Stored data based on failed parts should be cleared by using the "CLEAR COMMAND" of the HDS, if parts are replaced.

The HDS has three kinds of clear commands to meet this purpose. They are DTC clear, ECM/PCM reset, and crank (CKP) pattern clear. DTC clear command erases all stored DTC codes, freeze data, on-board snapshot, and readiness codes. This must be done with the HDS after reproducing the DTC during troubleshooting. The ECM/PCM reset command erases all stored DTC codes, freeze data, on-board snapshot, readiness codes, and all specific data to correct the system except crank (CKP) pattern. If the crank (CKP) pattern data in the ECM/PCM was cleared, you must do the crank (CKP) pattern learn procedure. The crank (CKP) pattern clear command erases only crank (CKP) pattern data. This command is for repair of a misfire or the CKP sensor.

Scan Tool Clear Command

If you are using a generic scan tool to clear commands, be aware that there is only one setting for clearing the ECM/PCM, and it clears all commands at the same time (crank (CKP) pattern learn, idle learn, readiness codes, freeze data, on-board snapshot, and DTCs). After you clear all commands, you then need to do these procedures, in this order: ECM/PCM idle learn procedure; crank (CKP) pattern learn procedure; Test-drive to set readiness codes to complete.

DTC Clear

1. Clear the DTC with the HDS while the engine is stopped.
2. Turn the ignition switch OFF.
3. Turn the ignition switch ON (II), and wait 30 seconds .
4. Turn the ignition switch OFF, and disconnect the HDS from the DLC.

ECM/PCM Reset

1. Reset the ECM/PCM with the HDS while the engine is stopped.
2. Turn the ignition switch OFF.
3. Turn the ignition switch ON (II), and wait 30 seconds .
4. Turn the ignition switch OFF, and disconnect the HDS from the DLC.
5. Do the ECM/PCM idle learn procedure.

Crank (CKP) Pattern Clear/Crank (CKP) Pattern Learn

Clear/Learn Procedure (with the HDS)

1. Connect the HDS to the data link connector (DLC) (A) located under the driver's side of the dashboard.

1. Turn the ignition switch ON (II).
2. Make sure the HDS communicates with the ECM/PCM and other vehicle systems. If it doesn't, go to the DLC circuit troubleshooting. See: Powertrain Management\Computers and Control Systems\Testing and Inspection\Component Tests and General Diagnostics\DLC Circuit Troubleshooting
3. Select CRANK PATTERN in the ADJUSTMENT MENU with the HDS.
4. Select CRANK PATTERN LEARNING with the HDS, and follow the screen prompts.

Learn Procedure (without the HDS)

1. Start the engine. Hold the engine speed at 3,000 rpm without load (in Park or neutral) until the radiator fan comes on.
2. Test-drive the vehicle on a level road: Decelerate (with the throttle fully closed) from an engine speed of 2,500 rpm down to 1,000 rpm with the A/T in 2 position, or M/T in 1st gear.
3. Repeat step 2 several times.
4. Turn the ignition switch OFF.
5. Turn the ignition switch ON (II), and wait 30 seconds .

How to End a Troubleshooting Session (required after any troubleshooting)

1. Reset the ECM/PCM with the HDS.
2. Do the ECM/PCM idle learn procedure.
3. Turn the ignition switch OFF.
4. Disconnect the HDS from the DLC. NOTE: The ECM/PCM is part of the immobilizer system. If you replace the ECM/PCM, it will have a different immobilizer code. In order for the engine to start, you must rewrite the immobilizer code with the HDS (immobilizer system section).

 

...and alldatadiy's idle learn procerdure:

Idle Learn Procedure ECM/PCM Idle Learn Procedure

The idle learn procedure must be done so the ECM/PCM can learn the engine idle characteristics.

Do the idle learn procedure whenever you do any of these actions:

• Replace the ECM/PCM.
• Reset the ECM/PCM.
• Update the ECM/PCM.
• Replace or clean the throttle body.
• When the engine or transmission is disassembled.

NOTE: Clearing the DTCs with the HDS does not require you to do the idle learn procedure.

Procedure

1. Make sure all electrical items (A/C, audio, lights, etc.) are off.
2. Reset the ECM/PCM with the HDS.
3. Turn the ignition switch ON (II), and wait 2 seconds .
4. Start the engine. Hold the engine speed at 3,000 rpm without load (in Park or neutral) until the radiator fan comes on, or until the engine coolant temperature reaches 194 °F (90 °C) .
5. Let the engine idle for about 5 minutes with the throttle fully closed. NOTE: If the radiator fan comes on, do not include its running time in the 5 minutes .
6. Verify on the HDS data list that the idle learn procedure is complete.

 

The essential question in my mind is, can anyone authoritatively state that simply D/C the battery for 5 minutes will allow one to execute a valid new idle learn procedure, or is it essential, as the manual seems to say, to "Reset the ECM/PCM with the HDS" first. This is what makes me wonder: "The ECM/PCM stores various specific data to correct the system even if there is no electrical power such as when the battery negative terminal is disconnected. Stored data based on failed parts should be cleared by using the "CLEAR COMMAND" of the HDS, if parts are replaced." So do I then need to visit my honda dealer and hope I can coax a mechanic or parts man to put the HDS on my car and "Reset the ECM/PCM" in the parking lot and then do the idle learn procedure there, or not? Is there another way to reset the ECM/PCM aside from using the HDS specifically? Is there an engineer out there?

 

Having read through your posts I understand your concern. All I can tell you is that by disconnecting the battery (I do it for 20 minutes or so), then performing the idle relearn procedure, my car idles smoother and throttle response is noticeably different. So I'm pretty sure I'm doing something.

 

...and after I removed the cracked Supa Sucka and D/C the battery for an hour while I installed the PRM, then did the procedure, my car is viscerally quicker and idles and runs wonderfully. I'm just as German OCD as the day is long. I posed the question to a couple other forums as well as alldata, so we'll see if anyone with additional tech knowledge can shed any more light on it.

 

I had my battery disconnected for days at a time, many times. I have never done any idle re-learn procedure.
The car runs great and get excellent fuel economy. Am I missing something?

 

Hey ricohman, no worries. The point isn't that you need to do idle re-learn after disconnecting the battery, if you haven't changed anything. The ECM/PCM settings will remain the same. You can D/C the battery as many times as you want for as long as you want, you just have to re-enter the radio code. The point is if you change something that affects what the sensors read, such as air flow volume, in my case installing an intake. Then you D/C the battery and do idle relearn to let it adjust to more air flow. However, I do think it's not so much a big deal after all. When I got my Supa Sucka intake the instructions said to D/C the battery while working, then after installation start the car and let it fully warm up and go through 4 radiator fan motor cycles. But most likely in daily driving, the next long traffic light you have to sit at, it will take care of itself. I just wanted to be sure in my OCD fashion. I will have to say again the PRM JetStream Intake is awesome!