My front left channel is out and wondering if anyone has had the same problem.

 

I just started experiencing the same issue with my front right channel, were you able to solve the issue?

I bought a new pair of speakers hoping it was just the speaker, but it's something more than that.

 

I thought it was the tweeter but the stereo shop guy tested it and said it was OK. The bottom speaker had 4 ohms which the shop manual said was good. I decided to replace the head unit myself and got a Kenwood unit and installed it. Nice unit but the channel is still out. Next step is to hook an old speaker up to my wires and see if it plays. If not, then the shop guy says "that's when we start tearing things apart." If it turns out the wires are dead (it didn't seem possible) I will likely wait until spring and pull the dash apart myself. While in there I saw no evidence of voles, which was my first guess. Let me know if you learn anything; I'll post when I hook a speaker up. QUOTE=Speed Demon;1271508]I just started experiencing the same issue with my front right channel, were you able to solve the issue?

I bought a new pair of speakers hoping it was just the speaker, but it's something more than that.[/QUOTE]

 

Ironically after I bought a new pair of speakers and tested the channel with the new speaker only to find the issue still was there, so I reconnected the factory speaker and put the door panel back on and everything magically started working fine! So I installed the new speakers and wow what a difference over the factory speakers, so much more clarity and depth to the music now.

 

That is so weird. It seems like maybe just your fiddling with the wiring harness reconnected something. Since I repalced my head unit that means it has to be in the wiring harness somewhere. Maybe our problems are not identical. But let me know what happens, if it stays good or re-occurs. What brand/model speakers did you buy? I really like my new Kenwood head unit and would like to upgrade the speakers as well. What did you use to connect them; I assume the factory connector did not match up with the speaker connections?

 

I got some 6-1/2" Kicker speakers from Crutchfield, when you buy the the speakers from them they come with the wire adapters and the mounting brackets you need (for free). You need to mount the bracket a little higher than you think so the bottom of the speaker doesn't interfere with the bottom of the door panel (the top mounting hole I actually drilled through the plastic piece on the interior door panel), I had to drill the first one twice to get it to fit right. Also the speakers come with 1" screws that are too long for the adapter plate, when you tighten them down all the way they push against the door panel and push the speaker away, so I had to go buy some 3/4" screws.

I like the speakers so much I am going to be buying a 2nd pair for the rear.

The issue with the front right channel has not come back, I'm keeping my fingers crossed.

Kicker 41DSC654 6-1/2" 2-way speakers at Crutchfield.com

 

I decided to try replacing the driver's side door wiring harness as my door lock stopped working properly also. I got one from Majestic Honda for a reasonable price and it was not as bad to replace as I thought it was going to be. That solved the left front channel problem and the electric locking system works fine now. I couldn't believe that it could be bad after only 7 years so that's why I didn't do that first. I thought it was the Honda head unit and I discovered that the OEM one is a nice heavy (lots of windings, more amperes) Alpine unit. It's interesting that no car stereo manufacturer will tell you the ampere output of their products, only watts which are not the best determinant of sound quality. Units that put out more amps are usually more expensive. I ended up putting the OEM back in. I think the wiring harness issue is that where it enters the door it then has to make a sharp turn inboard to clear the window channel, and I'm guessing that for the average owner it lasts but in winter temps here that can reach -45 F. it was just too much for it. If it lasts another 7 years I won't mind but then parts may be impossible to find. I guess I'd have to unwrap it and replace wires with Arctic grade.