I am almost at the point of pulling my hair out on this one. I keep getting an on and off cel for the solenoid. I cant remember the code at the moment. I know it is stuck open i think. Here is what I tested so far and why i cannot figure out what is going on. BTW it is a 07 sport automatic. I took off the solenoid body itself first and replaced the gasket and screen to the engine. I cleaned it well with electronics safe cleaner. After that I still got the same thing. The weird thing about this is that when the light goes off, if i wait until the cold light goes away it will not return. When I just start it and go it is a guarantee it comes right back on. When it is on and I punch it the rev limiter kicks on at about 4k rpm and chugs. The cruise will not work when the light is on either.

I tried the other day doing some electrical checks. I put a 12v charge to the solenoid itself and it does click. So that proves it is opening. The Oil pressure sensor is brand new. I put a t pin into the 2 line connector to check voltage when over 3k rpm. in park I was not getting 12v, just above 3v.

I know this is a lot of information and kinda scattered. I am at my wits end. My next move is to try and find a new connector and take the harness apart and see if there is a short somewhere. I just cannot find the 2 pin connector without the entire harness for less than 500 bucks.

If anyone has had this happen or can give me some insight it would be greatly appreciated. Thank you

 

Please post exact code number.
The pressure switch senses the correct oil pressure and gives go ahead to ecu for activating valve timing solenoid.
The brute force way of testing the switch to wire up a manual spst toggle switch in parallel to it flip it on and see if system will work.
improper grade or poor quality oil affects operation of this system on older preludes so we were just punching hole in the screen on high mileage Preludes.
Also there is a TSB available regarding this issue on Fits.

 

Sorry about the lack of information. I had the codes pulled before I reset them in another effort to figure this out. Here is what im pulling:

p2649 rocker arm actuator control circuit high bank 1
p2647 rocker arm actuator system stuck on bank 1

I use strictly royal purple in all my vehicles so I know the oil is not a low grade quality. I also tried sending power manually to the solenoid and I hear a quiet click.

what I just tried today to see is I took the connectors off the oil switch and the solenoid. I ran a continuity test to the ecu from the connections and all were fine.

I have a strange feeling that I will be putting in a new solenoid on this.

Thanks for the advise.

 

I can run those codes at work and see what the repair procedures show.

We typically sell pressure switches a lot over whole spool valves but again depends on what the failure is.

 

P2647 there is a TSB 13-021 with a repair procedure of replacing the rocker arm pressure switch and oring. Pn 37250-PNE-G01 and 91319-PAA-A01.

Hope that helps.

 

I had this issue awhile back. Turns out it was one of the coils tripping the code causing the issue. Im not sure how the two are related but I havent had an issue since.

I replaced the valve spool, screen, and cleaned everything I could.

The problem is sending your car into limp mode hence the lack of cruise and limited rpm.

 

Thanks for the responses. I already replaced the oil sensor last summer. I called a buddy of mine who has a extra solenoid. I am going to replace it and see what happens. While im using the spare he is going to test the one in the car now to see what may be wrong with it. If it is the problem ill have to order one from honda.

 

Sorry for waiting so long to make an appearance in the thread again. I went ahead and got a new solenoid body along with the oil sensor that came with it. The whole thing was about 150. It ran for a while with no problems what so ever. The code did go away.

Now i go on a little road trip and the engine light is on again. It is now giving p2649. It was originally low voltage. Now it is showing high voltage. I am not quite sure what is going on here. I know it cannot be the wires shorting because I put t-pins in and traced all the way to the ecu under the dash and had continutity for every wire on the solenoid and the oil pressure sensor.

Anyone have any ideas here? Thanks