***The Official SSR Intake DIY Thread (Sid Short Ram Intake)***
#344
Question: I got a silicone 90 deg elbow with 2.5" and 3" on either end. Am I correct in thinking that I'm still going to have to use a solid elbow to be able to drill a hole for IAT?
Last edited by radioarno; 03-01-2017 at 12:41 AM.
#345
so i basically read most of this thread..good info. not sure if i missed it but has anyone tried using a 06-11 honda civic dx intake on their ge8? according to hondaparts now they share the same MAF. i guess the only concern would be tube diameter?
i thought i could cut it closer to the maf port, and the angle near the throttle body is similar to the k&n and the hps intakes, which will point it a bit downward to clear the brake res.
heres what i was thinking of using. $44 dollars on the bay, and no hacking oem airbox! think itll work?
**edit
ok so after much reading, i have ditched this idea as this intake is 2.5'', and the fit doesnt like anything bigger than 2.0''.
i thought i could cut it closer to the maf port, and the angle near the throttle body is similar to the k&n and the hps intakes, which will point it a bit downward to clear the brake res.
heres what i was thinking of using. $44 dollars on the bay, and no hacking oem airbox! think itll work?
**edit
ok so after much reading, i have ditched this idea as this intake is 2.5'', and the fit doesnt like anything bigger than 2.0''.
Last edited by eulogy; 05-06-2018 at 12:03 AM.
#346
well, like a fool I put my stock exhaust back on, now I can't hear my 4 bangher, I ride motorcycles, my naked goldwing doesn't have headers, but someday might, now the VFR800 does, and it is heaven! does this do anything to the sound of a fit, any performance increase? I'll give my Thanks to all of you for taking the time to add to this conversation.
#348
Finally ive read the whole thread...took me like a week.
So far, ill go to local shops for tubes looking
3" 90° tube
3" 45-60° tube
3" to 2.5" adapter, clamps and stuff
3" filter pretty much of my choice, hopefully one dry with velocity stack design
THNX SID
I know you deserve some extra help from ppl you inspired when your life goes down and that S#$% comes to you. I dont know how did all end but id really like to think it went all for good.
So far, ill go to local shops for tubes looking
3" 90° tube
3" 45-60° tube
3" to 2.5" adapter, clamps and stuff
3" filter pretty much of my choice, hopefully one dry with velocity stack design
THNX SID
I know you deserve some extra help from ppl you inspired when your life goes down and that S#$% comes to you. I dont know how did all end but id really like to think it went all for good.
I really appreciate that. I am in a much better place now. I float in the forums here but it's just died off so much in the last few years. I'm in Texas now helping take care of my 93 year old grandfather. Most days he's still running circles around me.
I appreciate the kind words!
#349
I just did that battery swap in my 07 Fit, fit no problem, just through out the tray. Posted pics in another thread.
#350
bumping an OLD thread
Sid,
can you say you saw any difference in the single 90 and two 90's?
sound, mpg, IAT's ?
I just picked up a 5,700 mile 2013 last month
it's been a long time since I did much car stuff (most of my 2005 GTO build was done by 2009)
Sid,
can you say you saw any difference in the single 90 and two 90's?
sound, mpg, IAT's ?
I just picked up a 5,700 mile 2013 last month
it's been a long time since I did much car stuff (most of my 2005 GTO build was done by 2009)
#351
#352
I can't say definitively that adding the extra 90° gave any tangible benefit. I never had my car on a dyno.
#353
I didnt figure you'd have actual HP numbers, I wouldnt expect much if any
but I'm a little curious about IAT's (from a scangauge) my understanding that COLD air can allow the computer to send a little more fuel (making more power), and that HOT air will lean out the mixture (helping MPG)
as I commute 110mi/day in mine (20-25,000 miles/yr), a 2mpg gain could possibly make a difference
694 gal/year (@36mpg) vs 657 gal/yr (@38mpg) = a savings of 37 gallons/year x$4/gal = $148/yr in savings
but I'm a little curious about IAT's (from a scangauge) my understanding that COLD air can allow the computer to send a little more fuel (making more power), and that HOT air will lean out the mixture (helping MPG)
as I commute 110mi/day in mine (20-25,000 miles/yr), a 2mpg gain could possibly make a difference
694 gal/year (@36mpg) vs 657 gal/yr (@38mpg) = a savings of 37 gallons/year x$4/gal = $148/yr in savings
#355
Would some flexble duct hose be simplest way to get cowl induction up and running with stock air box on GD3? Not pretty but figure still may be fun/cool, better then all show no go at least and if it won't be cool solid aluminum type of sounds I figure moving the literal place of intake would still be noticeable audibly. Looked into trying to fabricate whole setup for cowl induction, seems complicated especially if all metal, could make for coolest setup i suppose but you aren't just fabbing up a snake of a intake but also finding some way to fit a inline air filter w/ drainage since cowl induction love sucking in rain, which is where its far from impossible but gets complicated even before all the questions of how to fit it in such a tiny space start.
bit off topic but i have experience with this if not as much intakes.
Headers always will, but how much you like the sound usually comes down to personal preferences. The singular thing you CAN rely on is the smoother the merge (gentler/longer/with proper dividers and or "knifes" between each bank) the better quality always. Generally smallest (inside diameter, often matching valve exhaust area combined on 4 valve per cyl, aka usually stock diameter) that still works for high RPM is best for daily use but will sound more singy, higher, if you want deeper sound then bigger diameter on headers is the biggest real change anyone can simply do to make any car sound deep as heck, but on 4cyl isn't always a good thing (think Neon SRT-4) even if on others can be (various very old, classic "GTA" Alfa Romeo built for racing first street second), problem on street car is it puts your power band way outside normal RPM range on stock motor once or if you increase header primary diameter so isn't preferable, guts your torque, although its rare to find companies that sell it and usually would be fabbed at least outside muscle cars and or in similar fashion was popular in BMW scene for short while.
If you like Subie sounds, also deeper and rumblier but instead a trade of peak power you end up wth more low end usually, then there are a few guys who make good unequal length pipes for fits of i believe all generation, its not bad on the fit very cool imo but may not be what you are looking for, preferences and all.
To put it bluntly it will always make the biggest difference to actual sound outside headwork or cams that is the core, so yes, very yes its can be worth it, question is what sound you are targeting. Also have to do your own due diligence and not buy into for example massive mufflers or even tail pipes given how engine itself is breathing, a oversized tip is easiest way to turn your car into a farty trumpet rather then harking back to old sort of GT racer sounds that a figure a proper bike enjoyer is used, longing for, and familiar with
well, like a fool I put my stock exhaust back on, now I can't hear my 4 bangher, I ride motorcycles, my naked goldwing doesn't have headers, but someday might, now the VFR800 does, and it is heaven! does this do anything to the sound of a fit, any performance increase? I'll give my Thanks to all of you for taking the time to add to this conversation.
Headers always will, but how much you like the sound usually comes down to personal preferences. The singular thing you CAN rely on is the smoother the merge (gentler/longer/with proper dividers and or "knifes" between each bank) the better quality always. Generally smallest (inside diameter, often matching valve exhaust area combined on 4 valve per cyl, aka usually stock diameter) that still works for high RPM is best for daily use but will sound more singy, higher, if you want deeper sound then bigger diameter on headers is the biggest real change anyone can simply do to make any car sound deep as heck, but on 4cyl isn't always a good thing (think Neon SRT-4) even if on others can be (various very old, classic "GTA" Alfa Romeo built for racing first street second), problem on street car is it puts your power band way outside normal RPM range on stock motor once or if you increase header primary diameter so isn't preferable, guts your torque, although its rare to find companies that sell it and usually would be fabbed at least outside muscle cars and or in similar fashion was popular in BMW scene for short while.
If you like Subie sounds, also deeper and rumblier but instead a trade of peak power you end up wth more low end usually, then there are a few guys who make good unequal length pipes for fits of i believe all generation, its not bad on the fit very cool imo but may not be what you are looking for, preferences and all.
To put it bluntly it will always make the biggest difference to actual sound outside headwork or cams that is the core, so yes, very yes its can be worth it, question is what sound you are targeting. Also have to do your own due diligence and not buy into for example massive mufflers or even tail pipes given how engine itself is breathing, a oversized tip is easiest way to turn your car into a farty trumpet rather then harking back to old sort of GT racer sounds that a figure a proper bike enjoyer is used, longing for, and familiar with
Last edited by boof unofficial; 07-15-2023 at 12:37 AM.
#356
flexy tubes failed, i'd need a shorter battery
BUT! closing off both sides of stock intakes resonator worked. Tape if it will be secure, foam with tap where makes sense since some support helps. Very reversible if it ever becomes a concern. still recommend keeping stock end cuff(?) as some Fits have that, the sucks in vented air from behind headlight rather then behind radiator like as would be without. Low end response ends up significantly better (fuel efficient!, i suppose air is cooler, credit to honda) and you aren't loosing any of the more audible guitar-strumming sort of sounds blocking off resonators enhances, its just less drone-y. If you want to spend less then 3-5 dollars on improving your GD3 intake sound and all the parts you ordered don't work just yet, very good alternative.
BUT! closing off both sides of stock intakes resonator worked. Tape if it will be secure, foam with tap where makes sense since some support helps. Very reversible if it ever becomes a concern. still recommend keeping stock end cuff(?) as some Fits have that, the sucks in vented air from behind headlight rather then behind radiator like as would be without. Low end response ends up significantly better (fuel efficient!, i suppose air is cooler, credit to honda) and you aren't loosing any of the more audible guitar-strumming sort of sounds blocking off resonators enhances, its just less drone-y. If you want to spend less then 3-5 dollars on improving your GD3 intake sound and all the parts you ordered don't work just yet, very good alternative.
Last edited by boof unofficial; 07-21-2023 at 02:41 AM.
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