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In 9 hours I need to drive 400 miles for college placement testing and my brand new fit is overheating (or getting a flashing red temp light at least).
I installed a Fujita CIA earlier today and got ****ed by coolant because the instructions dont tell you it pees out like a dude whos 10 drinks deep and hasn't broke the seal when you yank off the hose. I got coolant all over my fans, the driveway everywhere. I got the car topped off on coolant but for some reason my fans NEVER turn on, I have parked the car had the red temp gauge be solid not blinking and they still are not on. Is this normal? I assumed those are part of what keep the engine from overheating. Could the coolant have fried some electronics? Maybe this has nothing to do with it but I figured it was worth mentioning.
Either way I need to figure this out. Here are some horrible nightime pics that show the way I have my hoses routed, I'm almost certain they are correct but I figured I'd include them anyway.
Any ideas? I'm pretty much boned here.
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__________________ 2007 NBP Fit Sport MT Honda Floor Mats || Honda Cargo Net || 35% tint || custom CAI || Blox shift knob || LED dome + cargo lights || Megan axle-back || Zeta dead pedal || "Dirty White Boy" air freshener :-D
When you put in coolant you usually need to burp the cooling system to get rid of bubbles in the hoses and etc. otherwise overheating will happen. Not sure if the fans not turning on is a symptom of this for the fit but it wouldn't hurt.
u didn't bleed the system after u lost coolant. This is what u do to get the coolant bled:
Turn on the car with the radiator cap off and the heater on high and full blast. Make sure the reserve resivuior tank is full.
let the car run for no less then 10 minutes or until u hear ur fans turn on. Watch the radiator, will see that bubbles and air will come out of the radiator cap. The water level will also drop.
Once the car is off and cooled about a couple hours later, fill the radiator up with coolant slowly and top it off. Put the cap back on and ur good 2 go.
An even better way is spend $20 buck on a funnel designed exactly for this purpose.The kit comes with seveal adapters to fit different size radiators. You fill up the funnel, turn the car on and the water level l will go up and down in the funnel until the bubble are already out. I sold these when I was a snap on dealer and guys loved this kit. Not sure, but you should be able to get them from you local Autozone or auto parts store. The kits made by Lisle and can be seen here.
Also did you use Honda coolant. If you didn't I am pretty sure your warranty will be voided. Honda coolant is differant.
What? ok... just no, any coolant is fine. Honda coolant is not any different than others. There is no way it will void your warrenty if you run the reccomended mix.
I had the same thing happen, just top it off. Then run it for 5-10 mins, then top it off and repeat until it won't take anymore.
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Last edited by Sugarphreak; 07-31-2008 at 12:07 PM.
What? ok... just no, any coolant is fine. Honda coolant is not any different than others. There is no way it will void your warrenty if you run the reccomended mix.
I had the same thing happen, just top it off. Then run it for 5-10 mins, then top it off and repeat until it won't take anymore.
Nope, Honda coolant is different and your not supposed to mix 2 different types of coolant. That is commonly known since all engine coolant is different. I would suggest flushing your whole system so you don't run into future problems.
What? ok... just no, any coolant is fine. Honda coolant is not any different than others. There is no way it will void your warrenty if you run the reccomended mix.
I had the same thing happen, just top it off. Then run it for 5-10 mins, then top it off and repeat until it won't take anymore.
Also Honda coolant does not need to be mixed. It might not void your warranty but I would rather put something in my engine that Honda engineers invented for their own motors.
Genuine Honda Coolant is the Only Way to Go
Increasingly severe operating conditions and the advent of lower maintenance requirements have resulted in significant changes in the variety and the concentration of additives used in engine coolant. Also, the continual improvements in engine and vehicle design have challenged coolant suppliers to design products that perform well in a more demanding environment.
To meet these needs, Honda engineers have developed a superior, high-quality coolant that has several advantages over the competition.
Some antifreeze, although labeled as safe for aluminum parts, may not be compatible with Acura cooling system components. Extensive research and testing by both Honda R&D and CCI, the manufacturer of the Honda coolant, have proven that the abrasive silicates and/or borates found in most domestic coolants can cause these problems:
- - Silicates bond to the surface of the water pump seal and act as an abrasive, causing considerable seal erosion and coolant leakage. In actual tests, the silicated coolant caused early leakage. This leakage increased dramatically until a substantial portion of the coolant had been lost. In contrast, the Honda coolant had almost no leakage through the duration of the test.
Chart here, entitled "Coolant Leakage from Water Pump Seal", showing Leaked Coolant Volume in ml as follows for each test duration in Hours:
- - Silicates tend to gel and settle in the coolest parts of the cooling system, causing radiator plugging and overheating.
- - Borates cause pitting corrosion on the cylinder head.
- - Silicate inhibitors are difficult to stabilize and, therefore, limit coolant shelf life.
Most commercially available coolants were originally designed for cast iron engines. Silicate, an inexpensive additive, was added to coolants to prevent aluminum corrosion, but the long-term durability of the combination was not tested.
In contrast, Honda coolant was designed specifically for aluminum engines. It contains an organic corrosion inhibitor instead of silicate. This superior formula gives these advantages:
- - No silicate abrasion of water pump seals. For example, these graphs show the surface roughness of two aluminum water pump seal rings. Seal A, exposed to silicated coolant, shows considerable damage. Seal B, exposed to Honda coolant, displays only minute wear.
[graphs here, showing roughness across the surface, with A a very wiggly line, and B a very smooth line]
- - No plugging or overheating caused by silicate gelling.
- - Excellent corrosion protection for aluminum components.
- - Long-term corrosion protection for other cooling system materials (steel, cast iron, copper, solder, gaskets, seals, and O-rings).
You can find less expensive coolants on the market, but now you can see why genuine Honda coolant is the only coolant approved for Honda and Acura vehicles (it MUST be used for warranty repairs). Honda's non-silicate formula delivers added protection not offered by 95 percent of other brands. Since our customers expect lower maintenance, you're doing them an injustice if you use any other coolant.
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2009 "FA1" PMM Civic EX Auto
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HFP Front lip
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Injen CAI (polished)
Vibrant Race Header w/HFC
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Thanks for the help everyone. Burped it topped it off and ran like a champ the whole drive.
Sounds great, good to hear you got it sorted out. How are you liking the new CAI?
Quote:
Originally Posted by 6speedmaster
Nope, Honda coolant is different and your not supposed to mix 2 different types of coolant. That is commonly known since all engine coolant is different. I would suggest flushing your whole system so you don't run into future problems.
I don't know, the whole not mixing rad fluid sounds like snake oil to me. It certainly does not void the warranty, also I have yet to experience a breakdown or reduced performance as a result on any of my cars/trucks.
I top up with decent brands like Pennzoil, but also if I am on the road and I find it a bit low I will sometimes put in a no-name brand. If it is a mix fluid I use distilled water only; during summer months sometimes I put in Royal Purple additives which do a great job on dropping engine temps.
All of this mixing and has never given me any grief, my rads have never rusted out or had corrosion problems. Most people I see that have these issues have been mixing hose/tap water.
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Sounds great, good to hear you got it sorted out. How are you liking the new CAI?
I don't know, the whole not mixing rad fluid sounds like snake oil to me. It certainly does not void the warranty, also I have yet to experience a breakdown or reduced performance as a result on any of my cars/trucks.
I top up with decent brands like Pennzoil, but also if I am on the road and I find it a bit low I will sometimes put in a no-name brand. If it is a mix fluid I use distilled water only; during summer months sometimes I put in Royal Purple additives which do a great job on dropping engine temps.
All of this mixing and has never given me any grief, my rads have never rusted out or had corrosion problems. Most people I see that have these issues have been mixing hose/tap water.
+1.
Glad to hear the OP got his issue resolved. I was going to recommend blurping the system until I read the full thread.
Sounds great, good to hear you got it sorted out. How are you liking the new CAI?
I don't know, the whole not mixing rad fluid sounds like snake oil to me. It certainly does not void the warranty, also I have yet to experience a breakdown or reduced performance as a result on any of my cars/trucks.
I top up with decent brands like Pennzoil, but also if I am on the road and I find it a bit low I will sometimes put in a no-name brand. If it is a mix fluid I use distilled water only; during summer months sometimes I put in Royal Purple additives which do a great job on dropping engine temps.
All of this mixing and has never given me any grief, my rads have never rusted out or had corrosion problems. Most people I see that have these issues have been mixing hose/tap water.
I have owned 26 Honda's and the reasoning for their fluid is do to Honda's being aluminum blocks and parts. I am glad you have not run into problems but the fluid cost the same and all coolants are different regardless. Honda coolant is not supposed to be changed for 100k miles if you put normal coolant in there you probably will run into issues later down the road.
__________________
2009 "FA1" PMM Civic EX Auto
HFP Suspension
HFP Front lip
18x8 Privat Netz
Honda Exhaust finisher
2008 "FA5" FBP Civic Si Mugen
Injen CAI (polished)
Vibrant Race Header w/HFC
Spoon Reservoir covers Some people love Honda's others are addicted
I have owned 26 Honda's and the reasoning for their fluid is do to Honda's being aluminum blocks and parts.
There was some credence to this line of thinking oh, say, 20 years ago. These days it is the rare motor that doesn't have some significant aluminum content.
Quote:
Honda coolant is not supposed to be changed for 100k miles if you put normal coolant in there you probably will run into issues later down the road.
[Didn't want to interrupt your run-on sentence, only replying to the first part] I'm new to Honda/Acura, I admit it. But I'm far from a n00b when it comes to snake oil and sales spiels. There could be some valid technical reason that makes Honda/Acura coolant last 100K miles, and since I like to do my own maintenance and I don't know about it yet, I'll take a look and see what I find. As for what you found:
Full disclosure: Subaru sells a coolant additive that's supposed to prolong the life of the innards on their engines. I admit to using it every time I've changed coolant in my STi and Legacy.
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