valve clearance

[willy65000]

Do any of the gaskets or o rings that are mentioned need replacing? I'd like to pick up the necessary stuff for this job so I can do it on this weekend. Also, am i supposed to be able to click on the pictures in the writeup?


Thanks,

Bill

[Myncrendy]

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[willy65000]

one more question for those that have done this. when removing the coolant lines that go to the TB do i need to worry about losing coolant and bleeding the system when i'm done or is the car ready to go whe every back together and reconnected?

[willy65000]

Anyone here? I have several questions as I'm unable to view the pictures in the manual that have been posted in this thread. Should I be removing both the lower and upper part of the manifold together or just the plastic part alone? Should I remove the TB and manifold together or one at a time. I've adjusted valves on a couple of Honda's without problems but this manifold and throttle body removal and all the crap that goes along with it have me seriously considering taking it to the dealer. I'm worried about getting it back together and having a leak of some sort.

Thanks,

Bill

[BoostLE]

Thanks for making this thread and posting the pics/links guys. I decided to check my valve lash last night and found some interesting stuff. Before doing this I've always wondered why my Fit idled funny only when cold, and had such mad top end power. I never thought it was a valve adjustment issue since Honda checked it out and found 'nothing' wrong.

As far as the procedure goes...it's VERY easy! Our intake manifold splits in two peices and you can leave the throttle body completely intact. In a nutshell you: take off the airbox so you can access the TB mounting bolts, under a couple wire harness clips, undo 5 bolts/nuts for the upper plenum, remove coil packs for easy access to exhaust valves, remove valve cover bolts. It's honestly that easy. I left the car on the ground and turned the crank through the access port in the fender liner. No gaskets or o-rings were changed out.

On to my specs after 71k miles.

All intake valves were within spec just barely larger than .007-8.
All exhaust valves were WAY too tight at around .002

I set all the intake valves to .007 and all the exhaust valves to .012 and it feels like I lost the top end rush, but the cold idle is completely smooth and not puffing anymore. A byproduct is I hear a lot more valve tapping than I'm used to hearing so I might go back in and set them to .010. I know that exhaust valves get tighter as they wear so I might just leave it...

So in short, go check your valve lash! It easy to do, no coolant mess involved, no jacking the car up, and you'll be done in less than 3 hours if taking your time. Also, hook up a battery charger, turn the key to A/C, press the A/C button with any fan speed and the car will blow itself cold