Fit Engine Modifications, Motor Swaps, ECU TuningReference Library for Engine Modifications, Swaps and Tuning
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hi guys, just want to ask...in what rpm does the vtec engage in 1.5engine? because i hardly find to difficult to distinguish it...unlike in the B series engine its really obvious when the vtec kicks!!!
thanx
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I Generally notice a power increase from 3800 RPMs to 5500 anything after that seems useless. (On stock engines) If you add performance modifications then you can get more out of the top end or mid to low end too!
I've read that it kicks in at 3400 rpms at normal throttle, and 2300 rpms at Full depression on the Throttle.
"At around 3400 rpms (depending upon conditions), the VTEC spool valve engages a locking pin, which couples the second intake rocker arm to the primary follower, bringing the secondary intake valve into action, which allows the combustion chamber to gulp more mixture."
From what I know is that the VTEC engagemen point is 5,400-5,600 rpm. The major power gain that is felt when the egine changes from the 12 valve - 16 valve around 3,600 rpm...
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From what I know is that the VTEC engagemen point is 5,400-5,600 rpm. The major power gain that is felt when the egine changes from the 12 valve - 16 valve around 3,600 rpm...
uh, when you switch from 12valve to 16valve, that IS vtec crossover...
What somebody needs to do on their USDM Fit is hook up a light. If someone has a testlight it would only take 5 minutes to check it out. Pop your hood insert the testlight into the light green with yellow stripe wire connector coming out of the Vtec solenoid then put the clip onto your battery ground post. It won't light without vehicle movement so let the car roll in your driveway or drive a even a slight rolling speed of a couple mph any speed above a dead stop and rev the engine slowly until the light comes on that is your Vtec engagement point. Doesn't anyone read the posts before posting?All these myths continue because of all you guys speculating on something I have ALLREADY supplied the answer to SEVERAL TIMES. Look it up in the manual or hook up a light then report your facts not this "I heard it's ...???". I love the ones sayng it's 5000 rpm you guys are talking about OTHER HONDAS not the Jazz/Fit.
i trust you know what you are talkinga bout
don't let the n00bs get to you.. we will find out soon enough, i will do this test for you when i get back home next week
Um, yeah it is. The Fit L15A motor does not have the traditional VTEC kick-in, like the B-series or K-series motors. Please read the tech document on the L-series motor over at TOV.
Basically, up until about 3400rpm, the motor is only running on one intake valve. At 3400rpm, the Vtec solenoid engages, and activates the second intake valve. The reasons for this are well-explained: the single-valve operation promotes a swirling in the combustion chamber, creating better fuel effeciency, thanks to the small intake valve size, and offset placement. When the second valve is activated, the motor produces more power, as you have just doubled the intake valve total area...
Unluckily, TOV appears to be down for the time being. As soon as its back up, please read about the motor in your car, and take some time to review the facts. Its a shame that so much misinformation is being spread about a car that only just arrived here in the states. In other countries, the VTEC engagement points may be different, but for the US, thats the deal.
Did you also know that the rods in the L15A motor do NOT line up with the crank? This fact, coupled with the under-square design of the motor is what limits the L15a to only 6500rpm.
:EDIT:
I used Google's cache of the L15a info page:
This is G o o g l e's cache of http://asia.vtec.net/Series/FitJazz/lseries/ as retrieved on Apr 30, 2006 19:34:42 GMT.
G o o g l e's cache is the snapshot that we took of the page as we crawled the web.
The page may have changed since that time. Click here for the current page without highlighting.
This cached page may reference images which are no longer available. Click here for the cached text only.
To link to or bookmark this page, use the following url: http://www.google.com/search?q=cache...ient=firefox-a
*mod edit* - I took out the 8 billion pages of copywrited text but left the links for people to click if they want to read the article.
No problem. If you have any other technical questions regarding the motor, fire away. I've spent quite a bit of time researching the L-series motor, potential swaps (which are not a good idea, imho), and issues I'm sure we'll encounter as we push the L15 to its limit.
I felt it KICKed-in as i floored it merging to a faster lane. My attention was with my surroundings so i only had a glimpse and the tach was just pass the 3,000 mark before i felt the rush.
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No problem. If you have any other technical questions regarding the motor, fire away. I've spent quite a bit of time researching the L-series motor, potential swaps (which are not a good idea, imho), and issues I'm sure we'll encounter as we push the L15 to its limit.
:sigh: Here we go again. As Mugen, Spoon, and a few other Japanese tuners have said: A K20 swapped Fit is undrivable. If Mugen can't make it work... they have some of the best engineers in the business, plus Honda factory support... I don't think they'll ever work out. Its simply an issue of too much weight in the nose of an already iffy weight distributed car. 62/38 is downright bad. Double or triple the power, add more weight to the nose, and widen the front track, and what do you get? An understeering, torque steering, undrivable mess. Hell, Mugen came out and said it "We feel the best option for the Fit is some sort of forced induction on the stock motor."
If you want a faster car, get a Civic, the K-series fits better, and thanks to the gastank not being under the front seats, the weight distribution isn't so bad. The Fit really excels with the L15a, as seen in the Spoon Fit. They tweaked it to make ~125bhp, saying that more made the car unpredictable, unreliable, and difficult to drive. I see no reason to argue with them by wasting money installing another motor.
Quote:
Originally Posted by GoFit
I felt it KICKed-in as i floored it merging to a faster lane. My attention was with my surroundings so i only had a glimpse and the tach was just pass the 3,000 mark before i felt the rush.
Yeah, you can feel the change if you run at about 3/4 throttle in 2nd gear... its not much, but enough to make you go "ah, yeah, just what this car needs".
Anyhow, I'm sure I'll be in the minority here, everyone is foaming at the mouth over the unfinished K-swaps in CA, and lining up to pay through the nose for Hasport mounts or a kit, plus an overpriced motor. If you all have any questions, feel free to IM me or email me. sharkytm@gmail.com
I was thinking of picking up a K03 Sport from one of the 1.8t guys thats gone the BT route, and getting a mani and DP fabbed up, but DBW is kind of a problem for real engine management last I checked. It'd be so cheap, too
Again...
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