So over the last couple years I've been fighting the dreaded misfire/shuttering/poor idle/P030* issue on my fit. I've replaced all of the coil packs and replaced/adjusted the spark plug gaps down as I've see in the posts. This helped greatly but I continue to get the one off P0304 and only P0304 at this time, the stalling while under slight load left when I re-gapped the plugs. So my next order of business will be to add the dielectric grease to the coil/plug. My 1st question is does this go directly where the plug makes contact with the coil pack/spring or somewhere else?

Second, I notice some occasional clatter coming from the valve train which I assume is a valve adjustment just begging to happen (190k miles) According to the Honda service manual you need to remove the manifold to get to the valve cover but somewhere I read about a guy not having to do this. Is it possible to get the valve cover off to adjust the valves without taking off the manifold? Are there any thoughts of BKM's for doing the valve adjustment?

 

You might not have to take the entire manifold off and just remove the top half of the manifold. Seems like it would be impossible to take off the valve cover with out at least the top half removed.

 

^^^ I've done the valve adjustment. Yes, on USA Fits the intake splits into two pieces, and you remove the upper half for access.

Other engines (1.3L) in other countries do NOT have the split intake.



Here is a pictorial DIY but again, the car pictured was in the Philippines.

DIY adjusting valve clearences GD - Honda Fit Forums

 

^^Carbuff knows.


I would add that a first time valve adjustment seems daunting, but you can do it. Get the Service Manual or follow some online DIYs. Take your time. Put everything that you take off in a place where it won't get lost. I use a shallow cardboard box. I've adjusted the valves on my Fit 4-5 times. If you have never done it, and you have 190k mi., then you need to get busy.

Good luck.

 

Wow Marrk, 4 or 5 times? Over how many miles?


Were the clearances off appreciably after the first time or two?


+++++++++++

Regards the cardboard box for hardware, I draw a little diagram and punch a hole in a cardboard sheet for each piece of hardware. Sometimes the length of the bolt can differ, that's how you prevent mixing them up.

A trick I learned many years ago.

 

I did one valve adjustment at 30K, one at 60K and one at 90k.

But I had to redo the 30k just to satisfy myself that it was as right, and I had to redo the 90k because I adjusted them loose, then decided that I didn't like it.

Valve adjustments are not a big deal once you get the first one under your belt.

Speaking of belts, I am afraid to do the serpentine belt replacement because it has a manual tensioner and because there's no room to work in there. But that's for another thread.

 

I'm thinking about adjusting the valves on a US 2007 Honda Fit.
Can anyone refer me to a video or help me with the step by step instructions for removing everything above the valve cover. There is a lot of items there and I want to make sure I do it correctly. Any help would be appreciated.


Bill Ditz

 

https://www.fitfreak.net/forums/fit-...clearance.html

 

I've been driving my fit for almost 140K miles and have not done a valve adjustment once. It seems to be running fine. No issues. What other signs call for an adjustment?

 

^^The book says "noisy valves," but that could mean anything to a non-professional-mechanic.

If your car runs poorly, idles rough, gets poor gas mileage, stalls — those are signs that could point to a valve adjustment.

Is it possible that your car is not running as well as it did when you bought it, but you are so used to it that you just don't notice? Maybe you should have someone else check it out.

 

Hey before you do valve, check you battery and alternator voltage might sound like a joke but i went thought the same issues to find out my alt been draining my battery and my alt dose not hold the right voltage it fluctuates from14 to as low as 12.2 causing stalling out and sputtering did valve adjustment hoping that was it but was not it

 

^^Wouldn't this result in a catastrophic battery failure before too long . . . ?

 

My CRV does this as a fuel saving measure (I know because I run a ScanGaugeII OBDII gauge kit, "Virtual" gauges).

So during periods of "negligible" electrical load, the charging system "drops out", allowing the car to run off the battery. That's when the voltage meter indicates 12.3 - 12.5 VDC.

Turn on the lights (or engage the A/C compressor) and the charging system kicks in, making 14.3 to 14.6 VDC.

We haven't put the ScanGauge into the Fit, the member of the family that drives it isn't interested in the information it provides...