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L15a microsquirt

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  #1  
Old 05-10-2016, 02:27 AM
MoabPorkChop's Avatar
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L15a microsquirt

I am looking for help wiring the crank position sensor and coils to a microsquirt v3 board. I need a pin out for the coils and info on the crank position sensor.

Any info would be awesome. I don't even have a base tune yet. The motor is a bone stock 2008 but I plan on adding a turbo once I get it running reliably.

I would love to hear from someone who has been down this road before


Thanks, Matt
 
  #2  
Old 05-10-2016, 11:50 AM
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I haven't done a honda ,, but for most EFI standalones I find its easiest to use parts that work with the unit rather than the factory sensors.. GM sensors are well documented and most are easy to adapt..

The Simple Digital Systems web page has a lot of good info about how to install.

Cheers!
 
  #3  
Old 05-11-2016, 12:43 AM
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Using the Ford EDIS system is my backup plan but I would like to try to use the factory stuff first. The EDIS seems to be a solid and simple solution but it is getting to be 25 years old so I figure learning the newer systems would be beneficial. I don't know if they still use EDIS or how long it was used but it is on the top of my list if I can't figure out the Honda factory system. I don't think that the microsquirt can fire four different coils so using the cop may not be an option anyway. I don't know much about the GM systems but I am planning on doing some reading to see how viable it is for my situation.

For some background I build aluminum jet boats and am going to put the l15a into a 13.5' boat. I really only need to run the engine with the computer so it should be relatively simple.

as a second question I would like to know what size turbos people have been running. fast spooling isn't a priority since power around 5k is most important.

Thanks, Matt.
 
  #4  
Old 05-11-2016, 07:56 PM
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Costwise, a Simple digital systems unit will likely work out cheaper than *squirt units in the long haul, at least thats how my math keeps working out.

Simple Digital System EM-5

I love the concept of the Mega/Microsquirt open source stuff, but he component costs add up.. And honestly I'm finding as I get older I want to drive it not work on it..

I've worked on a half dozen cars with their systems at the track and for a just go run it setup its hard to beat.

No connection other than seeing it work well..
 
  #5  
Old 05-13-2016, 04:17 PM
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ust to add a little context to this thread I got the engine from a wrecked 2008 fit and plan to put it in this little jet boat. The boat is a 13.5' sprint boat (if you haven't heard of a sprint boat search for them on YouTube). The current motor is a zz383 that makes about 425hp. The motor runs great but it is very heavy and uses more fuel than I like. Plus I don't feel the need to race around at 85mph all the time.

My plan is to turbo the l15a and try to get somewhere between 180-250hp at the crank. I have the microsquirt from another project that never got done and I have always worked with carbs and distributors. This is my way to learn computerized engine management.

I am also idling a water jacketed exhaust manifold to keep temperatures down in the engine compartment.

Matt













 
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L15a microsquirt-4b6aff94a824d8f8e617b99fecc06086.jpg   L15a microsquirt-c1a167313f7838672568d89a040503cf.jpg  
  #6  
Old 05-13-2016, 06:13 PM
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We have a Sprint boat "track" near where I live.
Fun stuff.. Lots of action..

Haven't got to tinker with one yet but it seems a lot like dirt track.. As far as care and feeding..
 
  #7  
Old 08-03-2016, 12:06 PM
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Whoa, how did i miss this! WAY cool project!

for turbo selection, I have always liked the Garett tool but it has gotten spotty these days https://turbobygarrett.com/turbobygarrett/webadviser

A Turbo which is readily available and can easily handle this project would be any Mitsubishi Lancer Evolution 8 or 9 unit. Spool by around 4000rpm and power to 8000rpm on the L15a1. A TD05-16G will move around 500cfm and handle 20psi no problem. All of that is well past what the factory rods will handle though. 10psi on a 13G was yielding around 200hp/200wtq on stock rods, but was not sustainable for extended use. The factory rods last longer around the 170wtq area, which was 7psi on a 13G.

Would a pin out of the factory ECU help?

Have you considered using the Hondata FlashPro? It would literally plug into the OBDII port and handle everything you need as far as tuning.
 
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