Discuss all Forced induction modifications for the Fit
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Dropped by the Skunk2 building today to visit the Jacksons and they were extremely helpful in getting me the pieces I needed to finish off the kit. In fact Oscar Sr. even came out and installed the hose and fixed a couple things that he felt could've been adjusted slightly better. These guys are just good people and definitely need to be commended for their hard work in bringing this kit out to us and providing excellent customer service.
On a side note I dyno'd my car today and to my dismay I was only able to put down 139 whp w/ 120 ft/lb of torque on the dyno. The dyno graph actually is very linear and power delievery continues to climb all the way to redline. As many of you might've already seen, I was previously able to put down 118 whp on the very same dyno that I ran the car on today with the only difference being I previously had a Mugen header and Mugen drop-in filter rather than the supercharger.
The final conclusion I have come to regarding the results and what the Jacksons have explained to me are that the supercharger kit definitely needs to be upgraded with some type of injector upgrade to support a header. Don't get me wrong the car definitely feels great, drives like a stock car, but in order to extract a reasonable amount of power a header is DEFINITELY needed in conjunction with the injector upgrade.
I will try to get some installed pics up for you guys as well as my dyno chart, maybe sometime at the beginning of next week.
Well, got the problem solved. Moved the alternator as far forward as possible and changed out the belt. Suspect that some oil might have been on the belt causing some slipping and therefore making the sound. After taking out the tensioner and installing the new belt and moving the alternator forward, I was able to gain some clearance from the water pump. Still not as much as in the pic, but much more than I originally had. Weird. Anyways, problem solved! Boost is funnnnn!
but in order to extract a reasonable amount of power a header is DEFINITELY needed in conjunction with the injector upgrade.
That was my conclusion from reading all the posts too -- if yer gonna pull the trigger on the kit, plan on injectors + header to get it all. KW did mention something like that the stock collector on the stock exhaust header was one of the worst ever seen. I sprung for light pulleys and wheels too. All or nothin'!
Dropped by the Skunk2 building today to visit the Jacksons and they were extremely helpful in getting me the pieces I needed to finish off the kit. In fact Oscar Sr. even came out and installed the hose and fixed a couple things that he felt could've been adjusted slightly better. These guys are just good people and definitely need to be commended for their hard work in bringing this kit out to us and providing excellent customer service.
On a side note I dyno'd my car today and to my dismay I was only able to put down 139 whp w/ 120 ft/lb of torque on the dyno. The dyno graph actually is very linear and power delievery continues to climb all the way to redline. As many of you might've already seen, I was previously able to put down 118 whp on the very same dyno that I ran the car on today with the only difference being I previously had a Mugen header and Mugen drop-in filter rather than the supercharger.
The final conclusion I have come to regarding the results and what the Jacksons have explained to me are that the supercharger kit definitely needs to be upgraded with some type of injector upgrade to support a header. Don't get me wrong the car definitely feels great, drives like a stock car, but in order to extract a reasonable amount of power a header is DEFINITELY needed in conjunction with the injector upgrade.
I will try to get some installed pics up for you guys as well as my dyno chart, maybe sometime at the beginning of next week.
so during this particular dyno run, you had only the base kit with no injectors and stock headers/exhaust?
__________________
if i could travel through time sometime....
pep pep?
Originally Posted by Btrthnezr3 Say Wha??? You mean, there's another reason to have a suspension?
so during this particular dyno run, you had only the base kit with no injectors and stock headers/exhaust?
I know right. How is Dynamic producing those number? And how did you get 118whp stock?
When I had full exhaust I was dyno-ing at 102 whp and thats without an intake.
I know those numbers sound amazing and I dont want to bring your hopes down or make this sound like Im dissing you (Dynamic) but those numbers of 118whp with Mugen Header and Mugen Filter are very doubtful. So to produce 139whp with the supercharger on a stock Fit since you said you have no upgraded injectors and no mugen header and filter, then either the numbers that KWs has been giving us are wrong or your numbers are wrong. And i highly doubt that KWs numbers are wrong. Again Dynamic, I didnt want you to get mad or burst your bubble but maybe the dyno was extremely off. I would deff like input from you and Oscar to see what he thinks about this.
Well, got the problem solved. Moved the alternator as far forward as possible and changed out the belt. Suspect that some oil might have been on the belt causing some slipping and therefore making the sound. After taking out the tensioner and installing the new belt and moving the alternator forward, I was able to gain some clearance from the water pump. Still not as much as in the pic, but much more than I originally had. Weird. Anyways, problem solved! Boost is funnnnn!
i also had the same problem. moved my altenator forward and the noise was gone this morning. the belt is still very close though. when i first installed the belt the tensioner was up pretty high and the altenator was at midway point as per instructions. after a couple of days the belt expands (which is natural) but now i had to move the altenator all the way up. hope it doesn't expand anymore.
On a side note...anyone who has the kit installed and has a scangauge (or similar ODBII tool) what are your MAP readings? according to the install the map clamp is supposed to prevent the ECU from seeing pressure above atmospheric but my scangauge is reading pressure in excess of 18 psi.
last night i took off the pink clamps that splice into the sensor harness and found that they did not pierce the insulated material completely. so i used different ones and still no luck.
I spoke to Oscar about this just giving everyone a heads up. I have not gotten any codes related to the MAP but i did for the cat delete (P0420). i am using a different cell eliminator with a very tine hole so hopefully that fixes the problem. unless the ecu seeing boost is contributing to the code.
Can i splice the wires together directly and not use clamps? maybe that will fix the problem.
I tripped a CEL last night. Not sure why, but I reset my car and it is gone for now, but haven't driven it yet. Will have to see whats going on, maybe the vacuum isn't sealed properly when I installed my boost gauge...or maybe it's those clips like leonine was saying. Will find out soon I suppose!
I know right. How is Dynamic producing those number? And how did you get 118whp stock?
When I had full exhaust I was dyno-ing at 102 whp and thats without an intake.
I know those numbers sound amazing and I dont want to bring your hopes down or make this sound like Im dissing you (Dynamic) but those numbers of 118whp with Mugen Header and Mugen Filter are very doubtful. So to produce 139whp with the supercharger on a stock Fit since you said you have no upgraded injectors and no mugen header and filter, then either the numbers that KWs has been giving us are wrong or your numbers are wrong. And i highly doubt that KWs numbers are wrong. Again Dynamic, I didnt want you to get mad or burst your bubble but maybe the dyno was extremely off. I would deff like input from you and Oscar to see what he thinks about this.
Before all of you guys start jumping to the conclusion that the dyno is very off and all of that, I already talked about all of this in the previous thread. IF you read through the entire thread, I later had Azncarbos run his car on the same dyno and he produced 100whp with an intake and exhaust. From this information and the fact that he dyno'd at 85 whp on another dyno while bone stock, I was able to come to the conclusion that the dyno read 10% higher than other dynos. That would place my car at approximately 106 whp.
BTW I have the J's racing catback as well as a few other mods, if you check the thread I posted.
Also I am giving this information to you guys to show you the difference between what I was able to achieve with the supercharger minus my Mugen header and filter. I could care less what numbers I was putting down, but rather I was trying to use the dyno to reference how much power I gained. Regardless of you guys misunderstanding my intentions I will continue to keep you guys updated and provide you with as much useful information as I can regarding what mods should make you guys good power and how the kit should be running.
Once again please don't make me out to be someone who is trying to show everyone how much power I am making because that is not my intention, I am merely just trying to give you guys insight how these modifications will affect your car, in which you might not have otherwise obtained.
Before all of you guys start jumping to the conclusion that the dyno is very off and all of that, I already talked about all of this in the previous thread. IF you read through the entire thread, I later had Azncarbos run his car on the same dyno and he produced 100whp with an intake and exhaust. From this information and the fact that he dyno'd at 85 whp on another dyno while bone stock, I was able to come to the conclusion that the dyno read 10% higher than other dynos. That would place my car at approximately 106 whp.
BTW I have the J's racing catback as well as a few other mods, if you check the thread I posted.
Also I am giving this information to you guys to show you the difference between what I was able to achieve with the supercharger minus my Mugen header and filter. I could care less what numbers I was putting down, but rather I was trying to use the dyno to reference how much power I gained. Regardless of you guys misunderstanding my intentions I will continue to keep you guys updated and provide you with as much useful information as I can regarding what mods should make you guys good power and how the kit should be running.
Once again please don't make me out to be someone who is trying to show everyone how much power I am making because that is not my intention, I am merely just trying to give you guys insight how these modifications will affect your car, in which you might not have otherwise obtained.
Tom
I undertanding your trying to show us your power gain, just didnt see the part where you mentioned that the dyno was running 10% because its on a totally different thread location in another part of the forum. I can believe you dude, so there was no need to explain to the fullest.
I tripped a CEL last night. Not sure why, but I reset my car and it is gone for now, but haven't driven it yet. Will have to see whats going on, maybe the vacuum isn't sealed properly when I installed my boost gauge...or maybe it's those clips like leonine was saying. Will find out soon I suppose!
The ecu will take anywhere from 24-72 hours to recycle and run its diagnostics so you might not see it until monday.
I undertanding your trying to show us your power gain, just didnt see the part where you mentioned that the dyno was running 10% because its on a totally different thread location in another part of the forum. I can believe you dude, so there was no need to explain to the fullest.
I see, so your waiting for the Hondata too
No problem,
I just did not want to be thrown under the bus, with the other guy who got totally annihilated for posting a dyno sheet that said he made 130whp or something like that. I have completely different reasons for posting up my dyno, which is merely to inform the Fit community, rather than try to show everyone how much supposed power my car is making.
I just did not want to be thrown under the bus, with the other guy who got totally annihilated for posting a dyno sheet that said he made 130whp or something like that. I have completely different reasons for posting up my dyno, which is merely to inform the Fit community, rather than try to show everyone how much supposed power my car is making.
I was the one that started that other guys hall of shame. lol Sorry. Dynamic, this is another "game" per say. We're in a much cooler league than he is cuz of our KWSC
I totally get you dude. Lets see what other ppl around here get to see a more accurate place of where we should all stand in WHP with our certain mods installed.
Update - the belt issue seems to be fixed on my ride by pushing the altenator as far forward as possible. the belt expands which is natural but it is still very close to the water pump. but no more rattling noise.
Also...myself and at least one other person have noticed that the ecu is seeing boost. i have contacted oscar about this. the red clips that came with the kit were not piercing the insulated material all the way. i though that switching the clips would solve the problem but no luck. i have to investigate further but i wanted to post and let people know my current status.
Anyone who has the kit installed and has access to a scangauge or similar ODBII tool should check their MAP readings. If it goes above 14.2-14.5 the MAP clamp is either not functioning, the clips are not connected, or somehow the scangauge is reading directly from the MAP.
Maybe if i splice the wires directly without using clips that will solve it but i don't know. i'll try and ask oscar today.
Finally...it seems that posts have been mysteriously disappearing when related to potential issues. lets not continue this because it is everyone's right to post findings/results and let other fitfreaks know what is going on. The kit is awesome! things happen and i am not bitter in the slightest nor is anyone else i have spoken to that has similar issues. we are just trying to keep everyone informed.
Edit - Oscar says that the map clamp is there to prevent the ecu from throwing a code and then the check engine light comes on. the only code i have gotten is related to the cat delete which hopefully is fixed.
He also said that anyone who is having issues...belt problems, map readings, etc... should be contacting him.
Yah remember that dynos read differently, and it would be bad business to make them read low! Plus with our "low" hp vehicles, the margin for error is going to be pretty high.
The scangauge can tell you whether the car is "ready" or "not ready" about the CEL I believe.
The scangauge can tell you whether the car is "ready" or "not ready" about the CEL I believe.
correct. it will tell you if the ecu is clear of codes and ready to pass inspection. it will also tell you any specific ODBII code that is thrown as well show you readings for the following:
MAP
Timing
Throttle position
Volts
water temp
open/cls loop
RPM
speed
IAT
i think there are more but i forget. a very useful tool especially if you are boosted and need to monitor stuff.
Boost is funnnnn!
Linear Mode
