Discuss all Forced induction modifications for the Fit
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Anyone want to take lots of pictures of their GD install for me?
Areas I'm particularly interested in:
Behind the engine
Belt layout
Brackets
Positioning of the SC itself
If someone wants to do that for me, I'd be forever grateful. Then I might be able to make a write up on what needs to be modded to make it fit the GE8.
Does anyone live in Maryland, or nearby who has the SC installed?
I'd like to take a look at your install, maybe even test-fit some of the pipes if that's alright?
Too lazy to read through all the pages, so I hope this question hasnt been asked a million times.
Anyways, I was just wondering if the Rotrex unit itself is supposed to run really hot. My mech said that it ran very hot after a drive around the block just fresh from the install. So just checking in to see if its normal and not some sort of defect.
Mine ran fine but the unit did seem hot at first.... I had followed the instructions and primed it with oil, so I wrote it off as normal for a new part that needed to break in..... Every engine that I have overhauled became very hot the first time I ran them so it didn't worry me.... It has an oil cooler, uses high temperature traction oil and has been working fine except for the time a wood rat ate the vacuum line and it ran rich and fouled the plugs.
[quote=awptickes;675322]Anyone want to take lots of pictures of their GD install for me?
Areas I'm particularly interested in:
Behind the engine
Belt layout
Brackets
Positioning of the SC itself
I don't think that what you want is possible.... There really isn't any way to take pictures, due to the tight confined location of the parts..... Even the photos that came in the installation manual were difficult at times to orient to mounting location and if the text hadn't been as good as it was a lot of the pictures would have been useless.... Those guys did a great job of engineering the kit, the quality and fit were necessarily precise and precision made to fit and it was still a very tight squeeze..... I really don't want to dampen your spirits, but if they can't make one that fits your car I don't think it can be done..... Good luck in your pursuit of power, you seem very determined.
Too lazy to read through all the pages, so I hope this question hasnt been asked a million times.
Anyways, I was just wondering if the Rotrex unit itself is supposed to run really hot. My mech said that it ran very hot after a drive around the block just fresh from the install. So just checking in to see if its normal and not some sort of defect.
T.I.A
its close to the headers....when you compress air, air gets hot...so basicly yes it will be hot....the s2000 rotrex kit at 5 psi has an intercooler(why doesnt the fit have one?)...seems the fit people got the shaft from kraftwerks on the intercooler for the fit.
its close to the headers....when you compress air, air gets hot...so basicly yes it will be hot....the s2000 rotrex kit at 5 psi has an intercooler(why doesnt the fit have one?)...seems the fit people got the shaft from kraftwerks on the intercooler for the fit.
I don't think that what you want is possible.... There really isn't any way to take pictures, due to the tight confined location of the parts..... Even the photos that came in the installation manual were difficult at times to orient to mounting location and if the text hadn't been as good as it was a lot of the pictures would have been useless.... Those guys did a great job of engineering the kit, the quality and fit were necessarily precise and precision made to fit and it was still a very tight squeeze..... I really don't want to dampen your spirits, but if they can't make one that fits your car I don't think it can be done..... Good luck in your pursuit of power, you seem very determined.
No worries, I'm hoping I can find someone in my area whose install I can look at.
its close to the headers....when you compress air, air gets hot...so basicly yes it will be hot....the s2000 rotrex kit at 5 psi has an intercooler(why doesnt the fit have one?)...seems the fit people got the shaft from kraftwerks on the intercooler for the fit.
I would agree with you about a screwing if it was a turbo charger and did not have an inter cooler..... Even without it runs cooler than my Volvo 760 inter cooled turbo..... Why do you think that Turbo charged engines need to idle for a period of time to cool down before shutting down.......THINK
I would agree with you about a screwing if it was a turbo charger and did not have an inter cooler..... Even without it runs cooler than my Volvo 760 inter cooled turbo..... Why do you think that Turbo charged engines need to idle for a period of time to cool down before shutting down.......THINK
the intercooler has nothing to do with the turbo needing to cool down
the intercooler has nothing to do with the turbo needing to cool down
The timer prevents turbo blades from warping during cool down and is a necessity because of the extreme operational temperatures of the exhaust driven turbines, a super charged engine with oil cooled traction drive cvt never reaches temperatures of such a magnitude. Where did you get the idea that someone said that the inter cooler had anything to do with the turbo timer? Of course it doesn't. You were saying that the Kraft Werks super charger ran hot because of it's proximity to exhaust heat but, a turbo charged engine is powered by directing exhaust pressure through the unit to spin a turbine connected to a shaft that turns the turbine that produces boost and either shares oil with the engine for lubrication and cooling or uses a separate oil supply to avoid over heating and shortening the engine oil life. The Super Werks super charger is not reliant on exhaust to produce power and therefore doesn't produce intake temperatures nearly as high as a inter cooled turbo, that also suffers a drop in boost pressure as the extremely heated air is cooled by the heat dissipation while it flows under pressure through the cooler, that in most cases dissipates in front of the radiator ending up creating more heat into the engine and also contrbutiting to higher under the hood temperatures. An inter cooler isn't as important in cooling a super charged engines intake charge as it is in a turbo that is heated internally by hot exhaust gasses.
More problems!
Theres a weird rubbing noise then I do standing starts and when I change gears.
SOMEONE has to know, or has a slight clue what it is.
Turn your volume WAYYYYYY up.
Skip to 29sescs and start from there. A little after 30secs you'll hear a scraping noise. Its worrying me because this happens almost every gear EXCEPT reverse.
More problems!
Theres a weird rubbing noise then I do standing starts and when I change gears.
SOMEONE has to know, or has a slight clue what it is.
Turn your volume WAYYYYYY up.
Skip to 29sescs and start from there. A little after 30secs you'll hear a scraping noise. Its worrying me because this happens almost every gear EXCEPT reverse.
might be the intake filter rubbing against the hood? check it
Yup that happen to me when I first got mine installed. It's the intake pipe rubbing the "top of the engine bay". You don't hear it in reverse since the engine moves forwards and the pipe doesn't rub against it. But on every shift, it moves backwards and rubs.
Just bend the support bracket a bit, and you should be good.
Yup that happen to me when I first got mine installed. It's the intake pipe rubbing the "top of the engine bay". You don't hear it in reverse since the engine moves forwards and the pipe doesn't rub against it. But on every shift, it moves backwards and rubs.
Just bend the support bracket a bit, and you should be good.
Ended up being the intake pipe rubbing up against a metal clamp on a hose near the top of the engine bay. Thanks for the help guys!
Now for the other 2 places I hear rubbing..
A closer gap is said to work better with boost or high compression. It sounds like you may have a vacuum leak and that you are operating in open mode. Trace the hoses back from the super card to see if that is the problem and any other hoses, like to a vacuum gauge. I am doing fine with the stock plugs that I had to install after a vacuum problem caused my others to foul.
I have checked all the hosses I can, the best I can and I dint finds any loss or disconected hoses. It seems as like the car will idle fine for the first 5 mins or so when the engine is cold then it will idle at 500rpm. Othere then the low idle the car seems to run fine.
I have checked all the hosses I can, the best I can and I dint finds any loss or disconected hoses. It seems as like the car will idle fine for the first 5 mins or so when the engine is cold then it will idle at 500rpm. Othere then the low idle the car seems to run fine.
My car idles at 500-600rpm when it is warmed up. Starts off around 1k up to 1.5k, then goes down to 500-600 (on a warm day), or will stay around 700-800 on a cooler day.
Linear Mode
