im used to running bigger setups and was wondering how well the stock fit sport electrical system will stand up to 1000wrms at 4 ohm, 4awg wiring pos and grnd.

 

Depends on 3 factors. Amplifiers efficiency What kind of music you mostly listen to and loud.

1000Wrms setup is all amps driven at full potential with a sine wave. With music amplifiers will no draw their maximum amperage requirement pretty much ever. Music is very dynamic and 90% of people never drive their systems to full power.

1000Wrms with an amp that is 75% efficient. would draw roughly. 18 amps of current if it was a constant load. that's at max volume with a musical load.

With the Fit's wimpy alternator though you'd get alot of voltage dips with bass hits and thus headlights dimming alot.

Upgrade your "Big 3" wires and look into finding more efficiant amp/s.

post here or PM if you have any questions or need any technical explinations

 

the amp is an american bass sq-880, im used to dimming and all the usual symptoms involved with overdrawn electrical systems, but would i need to replace the battery or alternator if i were to put this system in here.

 

ok that ams makes 500Wrms into a 4ohm mono load. So just upgrade your wiring from your altrnator to battery..battery ground to chassis and engine ground to chassis and you really shouldn't have any issues at all. Maybe minimal dimming but nothing excessive.

 

dont listen to the site it puts out over 1kw via bob the owner I just need to design my box again and get a 4awg wiring kit to wire my tc oem 10 back to life. Whats the best way to wire a low output converter into this system since I want to keep the stock cd player.

 

Best? Probably the Audio Control LOC. BTW Im going to be running a little more power than you but am using a yellow top and a batcap 800, in my evo I ran that battery and batcap with a modded usamps 400 at around 2k pushing a RE XXX 12 plus 4X200w PG xenon to midbasses and front 3 way, no dimming.

 

Oh and like my fellow Injun, I am rewiring the alt/battery/and regrounding the whole damn car. Hondas are so damn noisey.

 

MY SQ car is a VW beetle.. wanna talk electrical noise.. I have 4 square feet of 3mm lead sheets in the car to isolate parts.

 

BWAH! that bad huh?

Usually on the hondas, I isolate the power paths for the HU/amps processors whatever away from the cars electrical save a relay switched by a ACC supply to serve as the ignition source, combined with proper rewiring/grounding (meaning redoing how it comes from the factory) usually corrects the issues.

What about the VW makes the use of LEAD necessary?

 

4 computers, large guage wiring throughout. (heated seats, the trunk popper pulls nearly 20 amps when you use it. Static noise isn't overly bad, it's just horrid when some accessories like A/C and heated seats are used. Also it's a complete stealth install so my DQT is mounted under the drivers side dash just below the column. Mids are are as far back in the dash as they can go..(read as right above the ignition computer on the drivers side). It's a 2007 beetle so 2.5L but mk4 chassis. lots of weird things in the car.