What I have: Pioneer AVIC-X930BT navigation head unit + Scosche dash kit for my 2007 Honda Fit + wiring harness & antenna adapter.

What I want: Components in front, coaxials in back, subwoofer / amplifier(s) in very back.

Sound quality and good value are my main priorities. Trunk space can be sacrificed. I want to spend whatever it takes to get a good, simple, high quality entry level system; looking to spend around $800 for the 4 speakers, 2 tweeters, subwoofer, amplifier, and wiring / etc.

I listen mostly to metal and bass heavy electronic music. I would like to be able to feel the bass; but I don't want massive bass that flexes windows and such. I like clean, balanced bass, but I still want to be able to feel it. I'm still not sure if I'm safer to go with a sealed (cleaner, lower bass) or ported (louder, more efficient) box. I like the look of these single subwoofers:







Also, the description page for my head unit (AVIC-X930BT) reads:

"Three 2.2-Volt Preamp Outputs: The Pioneer AVIC-X930BT is equipped with three 2.2-Volt preamp outputs (Front/Rear/Subwoofer). The front and rear speakers are fading with high-pass crossover filters, while the subwoofer output is non-fading with a low-pass crossover filter."

and

"On-board 2-way crossover for separate high-pass and low-pass settings"

Does this mean I don't need any stand alone crossovers? I ask because I'm trying to do the cleanest install possible.

 

Since you are in Cali finding a good specialty shop to help you out. You are correct that you don't need an external processor. The three preamp outputs will feed the front, rear and subwoofer inputs of the amps that you will eventually install.

I would look into a good ported box that is matched to the sub of your choice, just be careful since a ported setup is much more susceptible to blowing since there is no airspring to protect the sub. I would recommend that you spend some time digging around to see what installs you prefer. I went with one that is more subdued but with the hatchback you've got all kinds of options.

 

Ahh, ok. Thanks. I'm hoping I'll find something that fits my needs on sale.

 

You can look at my install log for some insight on how and what you are going to go through doing this kind of install. As for a sub that moves some air, our cars are fairly large cabin wise. So getting something to move some air is going to not only require a good quality sub, but you will need something that can take a good amount of power to get that air movement. The air movement is what can be translated into feeling it, so that being said I would recommend a single 12" sundown SA 12 with at least 900watts of REAL power.

I would do a 2cuft box with around 28sq in of port area tuned around 35Hz. This will not only give you the low bass but should be enough air movement and what not for you to feel it. I built a box very similar to that which I just described and here is a picture of that box in my fit.



And here is a video of that exact box running off 1100watts in the fit.

Sundown SA12 in new ported box. - YouTube

If you want some plans drawn up for you in 3D with all measurements and specs of this box I can do that for $5, just to cover my time in the program of rendering it out for you.

BTW, this sub is $195 new and you can find them in B-Stock for $150 shipped if Jacob has them. B-Stock from Jacob is pretty much a sub that had a flaw, and was repaired and tested for 100% QA. I have one 12 that I bought brand new, and 1 that is a B-stock and you cannot tell the difference in sound or looks. So you can save a little money there, email sundownz@sundownaudio.com and ask about what he has in b-stock currently or if there are any sales going on. If you want to mention I referred you (no I don't get a thing for it) use ALL4SPL as my name, that is what everyone in the audio industry knows me as if they don't know my real name.

As for an amp, you will need something that does around 1000watts to get the same sort of results I did in that video and if you want some more help picking some decent stuff out just post back here, I have ways of finding great deals and many many years of experience so I can give you some solid advice on things to buy vs not to buy.

 

what size sub is this? i like this size... is that a 10 inch? looks too small to be a 12 IMO..

 

Thanks a lot for the very helpful reply! So a 3D plan would be used if I were to build the enclosure myself, correct? I'd rather buy / custom order a box unless it's really worth spending the time to learn how to build one. $150 for that subwoofer sounds awesome. I am most definately looking for some great deals / good value on stuff. I'm not super picky, so I'm sure I'll be happy with anything. The number one priority is that I get speakers that fit in the doors and tweeters that also fit in the doors in the stock locations (on my 2007 honda fit sport).

 

I am not sure on your 07 fit, but most if not all component sets use 3/4 - 1" tweeters, they should be able to fit in your stock locations. Crutchfield shows a 5 &1/4 or 6 & 1/2 for your front doors. If you can deal with a 5.25 then I would get these, they are an AMAZING price. Aura 5000RPM 5-1/4" 2-way Component Speaker Pair 269-180

As for the rear, I never recommend rear speakers you are not sitting back there, but if you are looking to put them in then I would do a coaxial set like a set of alpines or pioneers which you can pick up for around $45 ish.

Now for amps, parts express has some aura amps on sale right now ant they are killer amps for little money.

For your mids/highs this 4 channel is perfect.
Aura RPM4200 RPM Stage 2 Mobile Amplifier 4x50W 269-190


For your sub this amp is not super ballsy in power but 450watts bridged mono should still give you some nice movement.
Aura RPM2300 RPM Stage 2 Mobile Amplifier 2x150W 269-189

So that gives you both amps and front components for like $280 with shipping roughly. Damn good deal and damn good equipment, but I don't know how long they are gonna have this stuff in stock so you might wanna move if you want to get those great items at great prices.

You can figure roughly $150 for your wiring, that's power/gnd, speaker, RCA's, remote lead and all fuse blocks/fuses. Then you add $150 for the sub, the box will depend on you. With plans you can build one for little money around $50. Or you can pay someone to build it, no telling how much that will cost but I would assume no more than $125.

And you are at $705, under your budget without coaxials add those in and you are probably going to be under your budget still slightly.

LMK if you need help finding wire etc.

 

Thanks a lot for the recommendations! After some contemplation, I decided to get the speakers and amps you recommended. I got it all for $246.94 with no tax, free shipping, and $5 promo code: save52010. I also decided to pass on coaxials for now (can always add them later for passengers if deemed necessary).

Yes, I would very, very much appreciate advice on what wiring to buy (like the best value and how much length is needed for a honda fit). I'm fully re-reading through your awesome build log, so maybe I should suppress questions, lol. Along with the wiring you mentioned, I think I just need a power distribution block (since I will be using two amps) and a fuse of some sort installed next to the battery.

Since I'm strapped on spare time, I'm really leaning toward buying a sub enclosure over building one. I'm thinking about it, though.

Picture of tweeter location (don't think I will have any problems installing the new tweeters):



Also, about my Scosche 2007 dash kit; it looks like both recirculate / fresh air stickers are missing:



I've searched everywhere in the box for them. I guess I need to contact Scosche or maybe Sonic Electronix (the retailer). Or maybe you're supposed to take them out of the factory dash kit? And the posts aren't pre-cut either; as mentioned in this thread. No biggie there.

 

You will need a fuse/circuit breaker for under the hood, distribution block for the power wire at the rear, approximately 25ft of 4awg wire should be enough for the power and ground. Audio Savings | Welcome to AudioSavings.com has some nice wire cheap by cadence and they free ship everything. For the fuses add the total fuse rating for all your amps together then add 10%, so if you have 100amps of fusing total do a 125amp fuse as an example. They also have cadence RCAs cheap as well at audiosavings. Then all you need is speaker wire and primary wire for your remote lead.

Here is the roll of speaker wire I purchased on ebay, good wire and great price. SCOSCHE 3mm HIGH DEFINITION SPEAKER WIRE 200' ROLL | eBay

You will also need connectors for your power wire and ground wire, you can get those from ebay such as this (4) Wire Ring Terminal Gold 4 AWG Gauge 3/8" Connectors | eBay

Or you may be able to find them locally cheaper but you will have an idea of what you need. And here is a fused distribution block pretty cheap; Fused AGU Power Distribution Block 2 4 Gauge Amplifier | eBay

Here is a decent premade ported box for a pretty good price http://www.ebay.com/itm/VENTED-PORTE...item3a6ccff25d

Here is a better box though about twice the cost but still decent price; http://www.ebay.com/itm/12-VENTED-MD...item53ea17a2ba

And another box, bigger than the other two but should slam; http://www.ebay.com/itm/2-CUBIC-FOOT...item2569265ca7

Hopefully this will get you steered in the right direction.

 

Absolutely enough to get me started. Thank you kindly!

 

No problem, I have a bit of experience in audio so feel free to ask questions, either on this topic or you can PM or email me.

 

I'm hoping to get some confirmation on my wiring. In the picture below, the Scosche 2007 honda fit harness is on the left, the head unit plug is on the right, and antenna adapter on bottom.

1) the pink wire on the vehicle harness is defined as: "K-Line for Off-Board Communication." I have no idea what this is, so I assume I just leave it disconnected?

2) I need to connect the power antenna and an amplifier remote lead (both use 12 volts, I believe). Can I connect BOTH of them to the blue/white wire labeled "System Remote Control" in the picture? In the head unit's manual, this blue/white wire's description is: "To auto-antenna relay control terminal." And later, I then need to split the amplifier remote lead (since I have two amps)?

 

Most times the pink wire is a telephone mute in cars that offer a mounted cell phone. No need to connect it.

Generally the blue wire goes to the antenna and the blue/white goes to the amps. They do perform the same task except when the source is switched away from the radio the blue one may turn off. One or two amps off the blue/white shouldn't be an issue but much more than that may cause the circuit to overload and fail.

 

Ahh, thanks. I might just hook it up and see if it works, since there are no blue wires what so ever on the vehicle harness.

 

Blue wire on the antenna adapter is for a power antenna, you do not need to connect it. The blue and white is your remote turn on lead for your amps.

 

Hmm; reading through the forums here, I always thought you needed the power antenna wire to be connected.

. . .

After a search, I found this post.

 

Funny because mine is NOT connected and I have ZERO reception problems.

 

Argh; maybe Honda Fits from certain years require it to be connected. Or maybe certain head units need it or something. Hmm. I wonder if it's possible to damage something if you hook up the power antenna wire when it is not needed.

 

It won't damage it. I have mine hooked up. It's easy to hook it up and unhook it to see for yourself.

 

Ok, good. I'll leave it disconnected for now, and then test it during the install.