Amplifier 1000 RMS @ 2 ohm, 500 @ 4 which subwoofer to get?
I have a PPI PCX 1500 from Precision Power. It is a 1 - channel amplifier and it gives out 1000 RMS at 2 Ohms, and 500 RMS at 4 Ohms. I am searching for what would be a good sub(s) combination that would be most effective for this amp. So far I'm looking at the JL W6v2. It is rated at 2 Ohms at 400RMS. If i get two of these, would they be at 4 ohms at 800RMS or 2 Ohms? Or just one to save on size? Or which single sub to run? Any feedback on this would be great and on other possible sub/brand/combinations on this amplifier would be helpful as well.
the subs would be rated for a total of 800 watts @ 4 ohms, so your amp wouldnt be adequate per say. w6v2's arent very nice underpowered... i would look into a pair of image dynamics idmax's or idqs if you get a pair of d2 voice coil config, you can run them at 1000 watts @ 2 ohms. That should be enough power and more than enough bass for a fit
Yeah this amp is pretty huge, it was in my previous car with a different sub. I just want to make good use of it in the fit. Looking for some good hitting clean bass. Basically I'm trying to make use of the full 1000 RMS at 2 ohms, but not sure which pair of subs (2 10's) or have more than enough power for a single (1 12's) that could be adequate. Right now I am looking at the Kicker L7's as well. Not sure which would be a wise bang for a the buck choice since JL's are pretty pricey. I was wondering how you could run 2 subs at 2 Ohms and which would serve this purpose nicely.
I have a PPI PCX 1500 from Precision Power. It is a 1 - channel amplifier and it gives out 1000 RMS at 2 Ohms, and 500 RMS at 4 Ohms. I am searching for what would be a good sub(s) combination that would be most effective for this amp. So far I'm looking at the JL W6v2. It is rated at 2 Ohms at 400RMS. If i get two of these, would they be at 4 ohms at 800RMS or 2 Ohms? Or just one to save on size? Or which single sub to run? Any feedback on this would be great and on other possible sub/brand/combinations on this amplifier would be helpful as well.
Thanks,
-David
The 10W6v2 actually is rated for 400 watts RMS. It has dual 4 ohm voice coils so a single driver can be wired to be 2 ohms, or 8 ohms. It doesn't matter what the impedance is of the sub, it is still going to be 400 watts. Two of these would be 800 watts of power handling. In using two of these, you would end up either 1 ohm which doesn't make sense, or you could be at 4 ohms.
I would like to make a strong suggestion. Run your amplifier at 4 ohms and be happy with 500 watts. Here's why: higher impedance, better-tighter damping factor, LESS current draw on a puny car that has no amperage output. 500 watts will draw at least 50 amps when you are really beating on it. The stock alternator is barely bigger than that at 4000 rpms.
I am running a JL 500/1 at 4 ohms on two 13W3v3-8 and it kicks and hits like JUTO. The 13's handle more power, but who cares. It's a system that'll work forever, not tire, and last and last. Oh yeah, the windshield moves too. Because of the motor structure design of these 13's, they are as tight as any 10 inch. They are a little less money and will ultimately have more output because of cone area and excursion. Both of which will be your best friend. But you better run something strong for front speakers like the JL C5 components.
I have a PPI PCX 1500 from Precision Power. It is a 1 - channel amplifier and it gives out 1000 RMS at 2 Ohms, and 500 RMS at 4 Ohms. I am searching for what would be a good sub(s) combination that would be most effective for this amp. So far I'm looking at the JL W6v2. It is rated at 2 Ohms at 400RMS. If i get two of these, would they be at 4 ohms at 800RMS or 2 Ohms? Or just one to save on size? Or which single sub to run? Any feedback on this would be great and on other possible sub/brand/combinations on this amplifier would be helpful as well.
Thanks,
-David
What is the difference in THD (Total Harmonic Distortion) between running 1000 @ 2ohms & 500 @ 4ohms. I have seen a lot of cases where the THD goes up by a factor of 10 times; people often like using the cleaner unbridged sound because when you turn it up it just sounds so much better than a frapping sub running on "dirty" bridged power. Anyway, just something to consider
My Favorite subs are the Alpine R-Types and Cerwin Vega stroker series. Kicker makes a nice sounding sub but I can't even count how many I have blown because they die running on the so called "rated" power... actually that is a lie, I can count them; I have blown three 15" and two 12" kicker comps.
So would you even recommend 1 Sub from AudioQue HDC3, Dual 1 ohm 1000RMS. Which in my case would run at 2 Ohm at 1000 RMS? or stick with a dual 2 ohm to run 500 at 4 Ohms. Anyone ever heard of or tried any of their products?
So would you even recommend 1 Sub from AudioQue HDC3, Dual 1 ohm 1000RMS. Which in my case would run at 2 Ohm at 1000 RMS? or stick with a dual 2 ohm to run 500 at 4 Ohms. Anyone ever heard of or tried any of their products?
Sugarphreak, turn down your input sensitivity. Using Kicker and Cerwin Vega, the THD difference won't matter much because the actual distortion of the driver will mask any difference from the THD in the amp between 2 and 4 ohms.
1000 watts = 100 amp draw if you are beating on it. Where is that coming from? Your stock 60 amp alternator that struggles to put out 40 when it's really hot outside? A cap? A second battery? If the PPI amps are the same as in the good ole days, they are stiffly regulated power supplies and if you don't give them the current, they will work harder and harder to deliver the power until they prematurely self destruct.
1000 watts = 100 amp draw if you are beating on it. Where is that coming from? Your stock 60 amp alternator that struggles to put out 40 when it's really hot outside? A cap? A second battery? If the PPI amps are the same as in the good ole days, they are stiffly regulated power supplies and if you don't give them the current, they will work harder and harder to deliver the power until they prematurely self destruct.
Nicely said, I'll probably be sticking with 500 watts @ 4 Ohms. Should be plenty of power for a fit. Now just gotta search for a nice head unit
Alpine type R's are rated at 500 RMS power. It'll be better to run two 10 Inch Dual 4 ohm DVC type r's under powered at 4 ohms rather than a single 10 inch or 12 inch 2 ohms DVC at 4 ohms with a flat 500 peak RMS right?
It would be better to displace power over multiple coils of two drivers instead of one. You will also have the effective cone area of a 14 inch driver with two 10's. Tonality wise, you would be better with the JL 10W3v3's, and they will play deeper and louder at low frequencies than the Type R.
Amperage draw is all relative to the volume nob so to speak,
A few quick key points to always remember is that music is Dynamic and is not a constant load. It has alot of peaks and valleys and points where there momentarily is no sound. The average duty cycle for music is about 25%.
Now to ask a few questions. What are you looking to achieve?.. Blasting your doors off, great sound quality. a litle from column A little from colum B.. and what's your budget?
Also to other posters reccomending just a "brand name" for a reccomendation, please don't bother it doesn't help anything.
__________________
Donald Phillips
MECP Certified Installer first class
Amperage draw is all relative to the volume nob so to speak,
A few quick key points to always remember is that music is Dynamic and is not a constant load. It has alot of peaks and valleys and points where there momentarily is no sound. The average duty cycle for music is about 25%.
Now to ask a few questions. What are you looking to achieve?.. Blasting your doors off, great sound quality. a litle from column A little from colum B.. and what's your budget?
Also to other posters reccomending just a "brand name" for a reccomendation, please don't bother it doesn't help anything.
I am looking to achieve great sound quality with nice clean bass that hits. Not something thats going to blast my doors off, but a nice clean punch. Personally I had huge subs in the past making everything vibrate like mad. I'm trying to stir into the quality end of things this time but still hold good bass. I listen to a wide variety of music from Hip/hop, R&B to rock, classical, and alternative. My budget is around $1000 and I already do have an Amp for the sub. I was looking into the Nag/in dash HU's, but now finally decided on the Alpine 9887 since I realized my purpose was only for good quality music (didn't really need to sacrifice audio tuning and quality for other DIN nav/dvd/etc stuff). So looking for a nice Sub setup plus some nice components within my budget.
Amperage draw is all relative to the volume nob so to speak, A few quick key points to always remember is that music is Dynamic and is not a constant load. It has alot of peaks and valleys and points where there momentarily is no sound.
Very true. I've been doing it for so long and in a very demanding market so I automatically account for worse case scenario. From HipHop to Classical, that's a huge difference in current demands.
Yeah, it pretty much won't even add up to that much, so I could probably part out anything I'd like. Basically mostly Hip hop and R&B. I listen to classical but who really bumps classical?
Great sound quality and 1000 watts of RMS power just for bass is kind of an oxymoron if you ask me. Hopefully you've got some $$$ in an awesome set of components to match.
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