IPF H4 LED Headlight Bulb model 341HLB just arrived from Japan few days ago,

I am still waiting for the IPF H11 LED Foglight model 101FLB,

I bought them from Amazon but different vendor that is why they don't arrive at the same time.

I choose the IPF over PIAA since they have a bit higher Kelvin and Lumen,
plus they have more adjustment compare to PIAA, plus the H4 headlight design of IPF mimic the regular filament halogen type and they insist have similar light dispersion as regular filament halogen type...
I am sure the PIAA also have good dispersion/cut off but the PIAA have less LED count compare to the IPF so at the end I decide IPF wins my choice this time... hopefully I make the right choice by choosing IPF instead of PIAA like I use to do in the past.

I will post a DIY/review once I install both of them






Today I decide to install them and here is the DIY:


First this is how the PIAA Halogen H4 look like (before conversion to LED):





Close up of the IPF LED bulb, notice the Large INTEGRATED Fan unit to cool the bulb:









Taking out the Rubber boot and then take off the PIAA Halogen H4 bulb:






Separate the metal mounting from the IPF unit:



Install the rubber boot back:



Install the main body of the IPF H4 LED bulb, then twist to lock it to the metal mounting plate that we had installed earlier:



Put some DiElectric Grease on the main connector and plug it in:




Test by turning on, and also a good chance to compare
the LEFT Headlight with IPF LED Bulb and the right Headlight with PIAA Halogen Bulb:







Time to install the right headlight bulb...
now this is where this is the hard part...
the space between the light housing to the windshield washer fluid is so close, that we need to move the windshield washer by taking all 3 screw,
and then, a bit of ... forcing still needed to put the IPF LED bulb in...

the first 2 bolts are easy to take off,
the hardest bolt is the third bolt that is deep down behind the windshield washer near the right fender...







this is the hardest bolt to take off and put back on... I spent like 2 hours doing it slowly while having scratch all over my arms:




Finally, both LED bulb installed... now I just have to wait for the fog light bulb to arrives,
I like the cut off of the IPF H4 LED Headlight that very similar to the PIAA H4 Halogen Headlight








and below is the HIGH BEAM pattern:





More DIY will be on this thread once I IPF LED Fog Light arrives

 

In the past, I notice that most of the HID or LED bulb only after market conversion do not able to replicate the cut off of the Halogen H4 bulb...

This IPF H4 LED bulb were able to replicate the Halogen H4 cut off right away without any need to adjust the bulb or the headlight housing...

I also try to stand in front of the car at several height to mimic incoming driver,
and it is NOT blinding at all !!!

Tonight I will drive my car and see how the LED color light up the road at night...

 

Thanks, now I want them haha. They look good, appreciate the write up!

 

This is the major problem with LED/HID conversion. The light pattern is usually awful.

I expected the same result but I'm really really impressed by this kit!

Filament position is crucial if you want to maintain the proper light pattern and they were able to do it!

Now I need one!

 

Thanks Rise and Thanks Carotman,

I wrote more review in another thread last night (the thread: what did you do to your Honda Fit GE today),
so I am going to copy and paste it here:

I just return from grocery shopping at night...
Wow, this IPF H4 LED Headlight is AMAZING!!!

It have the exact beam pattern and cut off (on both low and high beam) like a Halogen H4,
but just MUCH brighter and the color is real white so it make everything much more contrast (easy to see everything)...

This Brighter beam combine with the White color make the light like it is 2 times brighter than stock halogen and yet NOT blinding to oncoming traffic...
Its about as bright as an Infiniti Q50 LED headlight (I know because I use to sell those Q50 as an Infiniti "sales consultant" on my previous job) hahaha

My PIAA foglight that look white before, now looks yellow in comparison... hopefully the IPF LED foglight bulb arrive soon... so my car will have matching headlight/foglight color...

I really love this,
because I do prefer the way the stock headlight look ... ahem stock...

and
I don't have to open the headlight housing for retrofit (I was thinking if I do retrofit, it got to be LS460 retrofit)... plus this is much cheaper than LS460 retrofit, much simpler and consume less electricity since it is LED vs. HID on the LS460

after this when I have extra money, I would get VLED switch back to get my DRL function back... White for DRL, switchback to Amber for turn signal... I wish PIAA or IPF make a switchback system but since they don't, VLED will have to do...

Again, the only unknown factor on this IPF LED bulb conversion is the reliability since as Connor point out,
the fan might die causing the bulb to overheat and die...
but then again, the fan sound like that PC (computer) cooling fan, and those fan last forever... so hopefully the fan on this IPF also last for a while... beside those LED headlight on OEM high end car like Infiniti last forever and is not like IPF is some unknown company... so at this moment I am pretty happy and confident...

I wonder how the PIAA LED bulb conversion look like...
that would be interesting, on paper the IPF have higher lumen (brightness) and slightly higher kelvin (whiter)...
But PIAA have separate control module while IPF is all integrated and more compact, so PIAA might be even more reliable...
and PIAA is a bit cheaper too

 

I adjust my headlight height today:

Following this video on youtube as guidance:


The top part of the lower cut off was adjusted to height of around 67cm or around 2 inch lower than the 72.5cm height of the LED bulb to the ground at a distance of 25ft/7.5 meters from the wall with all my family sit inside the car.
This way I ensure my car beam are angled downward the further away it goes.

I don't follow the JDM Honda service manual which tell us to adjust the cut off at the same height of the bulb to ground height because the JDM Honda Fit have that knob where you can adjust the height from inside the cabin if you carry load of load at the back of the car.

I actually make my car aim higher now, turn out my car beam was too low before this adjustment...
I am sure now I can even see further away down the road without blinding oncoming traffic or a car rear view mirror in front or me

 

IPF LED Foglight arrives today





This is with PIAA Halogen foglight, notice it is a bit yellow but already whiter than stock halogen bulb:






Wasted no time, install it right away, first remove the PIAA halogen foglight bulb:



IPF came with some tielock to tie the long wiring and the control module securely, plus a Hex key to adjust the angle of the light if necessary:



I secure the wiring and the control module using tie lock:



Also take this chance to replace the broken tab bolt cover that I had bought long time ago in preparation for this project:





This picture is when I only install the LEFT Foglight so I can compare it with the PIAA Halogen on the Right Foglight,
what amazing is, the cut off and beam pattern of both the PIAA Halogen and the IPF LED Foglight bulb is perfectly the same and symmetrical!!!
That means I don't even have to adjust the IPF LED Foglight angle for our application, notice the color differences:







and below is the picture of both foglight with IPF LED Bulb
HERE COMES THE LIGHT





So Project IPF LED Headlight and Foglight conversion is done

 

Excellent work as always and a pleasure to read your project threads. I find them very inspiring and gives me ideas for what i want to do to my own.

I was also in the dilemma of doing a "retro fit" to mine. I was nearly going to go ahead until i saw this. I think i might give these LED's a go first.

Great work and keep the updates coming!

 

Hi Bruce_Wayne,
Thanks for your kind words.
I also want to point out an alternative to this IPF LED H4 Bulb which is
PIAA LED H4 Bulbs:
https://www.amazon.com/PIAA-17204-Wh...ds=PIAA+H4+LED

H4 (9003) High Output LED Bulbs 6000k Twin Pack

I notice you are located in Ireland so the cut off will be the opposite way of US since you are RHD so
which ever bulb you choose (IPF or PIAA), Please kindly let us know what do you think about the bulb performance, I am curious to see how it perform for RHD system.

 

Looks good! Any particular reason why you decided to do this instead of a projector retrofit? Sourcing an HID bulb would be a lot easier if one goes bad than an LED "bulb."

 

Hello,
I choose this for the following reasons:
a. I like the looks of stock headlight better than the one with projector inside.
b. I don't like to work with plastic... somehow my hand is not good and worry I break the light housing if I take it apart
c. LED bulb consume less energy and less heat compare to HID
d. it is not hard at all to buy LED bulb, I bought them at Amazon (USA),
and at Amazon you can buy either IPF or PIAA.
Yes they are expensive but installing them is way much easier than doing retrofit.
e. If I do retrofit, I ONLY want to use Lexus LS460 projector because they are the best, but that projector is so big that I can not find any different shroud style that I like,
and the cost of doing Lexus LS460 retrofit will be much more than this LED bulb...

In the end, this LED bulb is perfect for me...
next time I might want to try the PIAA one instead...

 

Rakuten Japan had great discount offer with Buyee, 5% off price and 20% off EMS shipping few weeks ago, so I can't resist ...

I always want to lower the Lighting Power Conversion because I am preparing for the extra power I will need when I upgrade the audio system and adding Aquamist Water/Meth Injection system in the future.

So I decide to replace the Rear Reverse Light with IPF LED, the License Plate Light with IPF LED. I was thinking of replacing the Rear Turn Signal light with LED (VLED V3 Triton), but then I realize that every turn signal LED conversion for our car will need Resistor to fool the flasher, so that mean, the power consumption will stay the same or even larger, plus the danger of the resistor heating/melting the plastic trim if I hide it behind the trunk plastic trim, and I also don't really want to take off the rear bumper just so I can place the resistor behind the bumper (outside the car and attached to metal surface)...
so... I decide to stay with filament bulb, but I bought the Raybrig bulb where the color is silver but it will light up as Amber,
this way, it will improve the rear tail light from that annoying amber bulb color.

Below is the bulbs just arrive this afternoon:



Comparison between IPF Reverse light and original bulb:





On the Left is the original reverse light bulb, on the right is IPF LED,
notice how much brighter the IPF LED reverse light (Rated at 500 Lumen Brightness, brighter than Phillips 921) :






Comparison between original Turn Signal light and the Raybrig:






On the left is the NEW Raybrig, notice the Original is very slightly brighter, but the Raybrig color is much nicer because it is more ORANGE than the yellow original:






and last the comparison between the original license plate light and IPF LED, the reason I choose this IPF LED bulb model is because it have the similar WARM color almost the same as the original bulb,
I don't like the WHITE LED color for the license plate







On the left, IPF LED (it is still a bit whiter but not much), the right OEM bulb:





Here is after I install both side with the full LED conversion:






Both turn signal with Raybrig:






Both reverse light LED:




Here is how it look like with the Raybrig silver turn signal:







I also ordered VLED V3 Triton Switchback few days ago with VLED front Amber LED parking light... I decide to convert so I can have my DRL function again because my DRL function now is not available since I convert the front H4 Halogen to IPF H4 LED headlight. Can't wait for them to arrive so all light conversion is complete.
Unlike the Rear Tailight turn signal where I stick with Raybrig conventional filament type bulb,
I am willing to do LED front turn signal despite the need for resistor because I can easily place the resistor on metal parts on the engine bay, so it will be safe, plus as I really want to have DRL function back (still inside the headlight housing) without adding a separate DRL unit that look aftermarket.

 

VLEDS Arrived:



First I install the VLEDS AMBER front Parking Light,
here are the details

Before:




Comparison:




After




Then I install the Triton White/AMBER Switchback:


We need to use the 25mm ring adaptor and the 4mm screw,
we just need 2 pc of 4m screw for our 7507 style mounting.




Oh, we also need the larger diameter rubber gasket but choose the thinner one (not the thickest one) and just screw it in, (notice the position of the 2 screw is opposite of each other:








Then connect the 7505 base adapter, apply the dielectric grease (that came with the kit) and also use the heatshrink that come with the kit to seal the base adapter:



connect the base adapter input to the input of the controller:



ups, I forgot, actually connect the base adapter to the parking light adapter wiring kit then from parking light adapter kit connect to the controller, the purpose of this parking light adapter kit is to act as input for the DRL (WHITE color) LED. I also built my custom RELAY and switch,
so the DRL turn out automatically once the key is at IGNITION Position,
but I have an over ride switch on the dashboard (orange switch) so if someday, I want the DRL to be OFF even when key is at Ignition,I can do it:






Now time to mount the Resistor, on the right side, I mount it directly on the front bumper Reinforcement bar (I drill), but on the left side, I don't have enough room for my finger to maneuver to tighten the bolt, so I use bracket (that I paint red) and connect it to the mounting bolt where I mount my Earl's Oil Cooler Thermostat, note it is important to install this resistor directly on metal parts of the car, do not install it on plastic part or near any wire/plastic, this resistor get very hot very quickly !!!,
this is the reason why I don't change the rear turn signal to LED since I don't really want to open the rear bumper and install the resistor on the metal part of the rear bumper rebar... too much hassle plus it basically consume the same electricity as ordinary bulb due to this resistor (otherwise it will hyperflash)... so no really energy saving when it come to turn signal LED conversion...
I am forced to do the front LED turn signal conversion just because I want to have DRL function again...






I also buy a H4 wire extension cable, so I can hack it to get the signal when the headlight is on to DIM the VLED DRL to just 10% power,...
this way when headlight is ON, the DRL will not be bright and blinding others at night,...
the beauty of this is once I use the HIGH BEAM function, the DRL back to 100% full power again thus helping increase maximum High Beam output, also compensate for the fog light that turn off when High Beam is on

Here is the wiring... oh, I also bought VLED Relay wiring kit that I modified at the end to fit the socket for the dimming signal.. this VLED relay wiring kit came with fuse holder and 5amp fuse ,that perfect to function as dimming signal...

the DRL input on the other hand were my custom 12 AWG wire that goes to the relay, this will ensure maximum current flow for maximum DRL output.

below is the custom dimming wiring, notice how I use wire loom then tied with 3M electric tape for ultimate protection since lot of this wiring pass near hot area (radiator/oil cooler/engine block), plus it make it looks like Honda factory OEM wiring





I had tested all the function and it perform flawlessly...
I had not take picture of the VLED Triton Switchback in action...
but I figure, lot of people had this VLED anyway so nothing new there...

but at least I post a lot of detail pictures on the DIY side above

with this post, I declare my Light UPGRADE project COMPLETE

Oh, I forgot to mention the added benefit of this VLED Triton Switch back bulb is now the headlight do not have that amber color on the area where the turn signal is caused by the amber filament bulb, so the headlight now looks cleaner/more modern

 

Decide to take advantage of Black Friday sales and bought
Pair of Rear Turn Signal LED bulb from VLEDS plus
an LED bulb for AT Transmission Indicator Light (but won't install this
until I need to open the transmission center tunnel cover)...



The reason why I want to change to LED turn signal for the rear because
I want to lower my power consumption as far as I can.








Raybrig conventional Bulb vs. VLEDS LED bulb.
I just instal this Raybrig bulb few weeks ago... but oh well, in the name of efficiency





Installed on the socket ready for testing:




VLEDS LED on the left, Raybrig on the right,
I actually like the Raybrig color better but the VLEDS is much brighter,
and yet not too bright to blind people behind me...
initially I was thinking of buying the VLEDS Tritron, but
I see it is way too bright (since I had them for the front turn signal)...
it is ok for the front turn signal since the bright headlight will make it not look so bright, but the taillight is not that bright plus the distance to the car behind me might be close when waiting at red light so a Triton will be
too bright, this one that I buy is perfect, not too bright but brighter then stock.







Oh by the way, I don't need to add resistor for this Rear LED turn signal,...
the 25watt front resistor (each side) is enough to prevent hyperblinking !

 

I decided to upgrade the LED bulb in my trunk...
few years ago, I upgrade the housing with the one that have switch and I also install LED bulb that I bought from superbrightLEDS.com that have total of 6 LED, but it is not bright enough,...

so last month I bought again from superbrightLEDS , an LED bulb that have 9 LED element and about same size (dimension) as the 6 LED... and I still not happy...

so I gamble and bought the largest one with 12 LED element from superbrightLEDS last week and today it arrived.
I install it, and need to force it in a bit since it is much larger but it fit,
and now I am happy because it is very bright

Here are the pictures:

the 9 LED smaller one still in the housing vs the 12 LED bulb



More comparison:






Test it after installing 12 LED bulb... ah Here Comes The Light... So Much Brighter and Better

 

Hey Alpina, what was the reason you did the VLED kit for the DRL? Do they no longer work when you switch over to LEDs?

I want to try these headlights in the future (phillips due to no-fan heat sink) but also dont want to open pandoras box and HAVE to go thru everything you've done to the front end LED-wise. Headlights and signals and working DRL would be good (but I typically drive with my headlights ON anyways). Already have LED fogs.

 

Hi Shinjari,
our DRL works by modulating the voltage to the High Beam Filament of the H4 bulb, but the LED can't be supplied with that kind of voltage modulation so we have to deactivate the DRL if using LED bulb by pulling the DRL fuse.
Same thing also happened if you do the Projector HID upgrade,
you will have to deactivate the DRL.
I had tried to find ways around this, and the only way we can get away if we can create a complex circuit or relays that will be activate with the DRL signal, but this is way to complicated so I decide VLED Triton Switchback
is much easier to do.

If you don't want the VLED switchback then, you can:
a. turn on parking light manually each time you drive
b. turn on head light manually each time you drive
c. wire a relay to foglight so your fog light turn on each time you put your key in ignition position
d. have a vibration sensor switch so any light you connect to it be it either fog light or headlight or parking light or aftermarket DRL turn on each time it sense the engine turn on (vibration)
e. buy an outboard DRL light module and use a relay or the vibration switch to turn it on automatically when you put key in ignition or when engine running.

PIAA and IPF had many nice small DRL light module,
it's just that I don't like to have extra light module on my bumper,
so my choice is only VLED triton switch back because it make it like it came from factory stock like that.

Again, no matter what upgrade you choose be it LED bulb or HID Projector retrofit, you will lose the DRL function..

unless you only upgrade to a better conventional H4 Halogen Bulb like what I did with PIAA H4 halogen bulb before the LED bulb.

 

Ah ok that makes sense then.

I typically automatically turn on my headlights regardless when I drive so it doesn't seem like I'm going to be losing any real functionality.

Thanks for the info and clarification. I'm leaning towards LED because like you I like the stock look and am leery about opening up headlights. I know "someone" selling LS460 retrofitted housings...but $200ish is better for my wallet/bank account than LS460 conversion haha.

 

Also the LS460 HID projector (or every other HID projector retrofit) that have Low and High Beam integrated function use a servo to open the "flap" when it's time for high beam, that servo mechanism make it heavy, slower to response,
plus if during daylight, and most people don't turn on their headlight,
so when you flash a high beam at daylight,
the light will respond slower because first it need to warm up before it emit optimum light and the mechanism had to open the flap...
If that mechanism/servo broke down, it will be expensive to repair,
so inside an HID retrofit, not only the bulb might burn down after a while, the flap mechanism might broke too, so more things to broke and all those thing make it heavy too.

and by flashing your HID projector this you also reduce the life of the HID bulb inside the projector...

while with LED,
you can just flash your high beam and it actually have even faster response than your stock halogen bulb, plus it does not reduce the life of the LED bulb.

so that is why LED is the future...

 

Such a good thread. Thank you! Your car looks great. Inspires me for my next mods

Edit: damnit. I finished all my work early today so I lounged around and found a local dealer selling LED kits. Left work early to pick some up and installed them ('17 fit ex). I appreciate this thread more now cause I had no freaking clue how to install it. But I just took out that metal bracket thing like you did and viola. Thanks again breh