Hey,

Put subs in the fit and now on bass heavy songs the mirror shakes and slowly tilts until its sideways... thus useless.

Anybody have this problem or know of a way i could prevent this?

Thanks for any help.

 

turn the bass down? christ do you have any hearing left playing it that loud

 

haha the mirror actually turns sideways??
haha i'm sorry, but that's hilarious.
umm i'm not really sure if there's a bolt you tighten or something?
i'm no sure, sorry

 

There really isn't much you can do.... i am have a problem with my rear view right now too, damn thing rattles so much that it wont stay locked in place at night. And i dont have a crazy amount of power in the back, only 600watts rms to a 12"

 

if there isn't a screw to tighten it, try elmers glue inside of the pivot point. you could use some water to soften it if you need to move the mirror later.

 

i push 2 twelves in the back and i have the sameee problem it just droops down as soon as the bass hits.. i just ignore it and use the side view mirrors..

 

Congrats, you have no officially become a bass-head

I never figured out a way to deal with this, just ended up super gluing the damn thing in the end on my older cars.

 

I broke my mirror completely off the mount (the washer cracked off where it's connectd to the roof.). Since it's a pressure fit ball and there is no srew to tighten ther isn't a whole lot you can do. My wife and I use the same mirror position so I adjusted it till we were both happy.. removed the mirror completely and squeezed crazy glue into the ball. then mounted it back up using a bolt and my own washer (not the OEM spring washer) and it's been solid up to 153.7DB's

 

i have the same problem but in my friends fit the dealer put a rubber spacer against the window and bar of the mirror it helped it alot

 

ya thats what i was thinking of doing shorty... just putting like a thin little piece of dynamat or something between that bar and the window.

 

153.7DBs is sickening.
you are hardcore.

 

that was a very temporary install last year before my daughter was born.

Was 3 extra yellow top batteries, a Bassworx BA3000.1D and 4 Bassworx 12.3 subs in a gigantic ported box. All the shops equipment, was for a few sound-offs. The entire amp/subs/batterries were all in 1 bigass box Just plugged in the 0guage power and ground and RCA's using a tractor plug. and 470lbs later.

 

and you only hit 153????
I hit 157db on A weighted mic with only 2 12's. Forget about the rear view mirror....my winsheild wipers have bounced so hard they have popped off.

 

what kind of 12s were those?

 

http://cgi.ebay.com/CUSTOM-4U-NEW-AD...742.m153.l1262

these to be almost exact....robotunderground built them with voice coils to my specs....amp is rated at 1000watts rms into 4ohm load at 12.4volts (bench tested)....currently running at 1ohm load giving me about 4000watts rms or 8000watts peak....4farad worth of caps 00gauge power wire....custom built box tuned to 32hz.
amp is also cutom built off a us amps pcb with upgraded torroid coils and output transistors.
this isnt off the shelf crap....
fyi your fit will start rattling from everywhere after a couple db drags

 

impressive, never heard of two brahmas getting that loud

caps are worthless

 

DB drag calibrated mic. Since the mic revision in 2006 pretty muc everything went down 4-5DB's on average. On an IASCA setup that would have been 157+.

breaking the 150 mark is extremely difficult in a stock car under DB Drag rules. Also bear in mind that Bassworx stuff is not very high quality by any means. the subs only had 13mm Xmax and retail price on them was $129 each.
__________________

 

Ive seen one 15" brahma in custom ported box hit over 160db doing 6kw burbs....back in the day I used to run redline subs if that gives you an idea of how long ive been building car audio systems. Grew up in my fathers stereo shop in the 80's....Our demo van in 1989 hit over 160db with 8 redline 12's....

FYI caps are not worthless when your still using the stock battery/alternator and doing burbs at db drags.

 

for the most part it's not the subwoofer itself that can get that loud. it's the car and the box. for SPL the subwoofer itself is actually detrimental as it causes and out of phase wave to the sound wave coming from the port, which is actually what's getting the super high numbers.

 

REDLINE!!!!!! Craig Smith was the "S" in G & S Designs.
He use to be my idol. Wow, that was back in the day with OD-KD tweeters and ported midranges.

Artieman, how big is your box? What batteries did you add?