2007 Honda Fit SCCA autocross class/rules

[MINI-Fit]

I've been emailing Doug Gill SCCA National Solo Technical Manager about the SCCA autocross classing for the 2007 Honda Fit.

So far there is no class officially for the FIT.

Hopefully soon there will be a ruling to Fastrack the FIT for H-stock but we have to wait for the official announcement.

Both the Fit Base model and Fit Sport will be in H-stock.

If you have a Fit Base you must keep it as is in trim form and keep the 14" rims but you can change the tires.

If you have the Fit Sport you cannot swap parts from the Base model and you must use the 15" alloy rims but you can change the tires including R-compound competition tires. Kumho V710 205/50-15 are nice but not for any street driving.

You cannot run HPF 16" rims in H-stock class.

If you do modify your FIT beyond just a cat-back exhaust, or brake pads then it might move you to another class. Stock class allows for any drop in air filter (using the stock air box), any front sway bar, & see other SCCA rules as they apply.

Changing rim sizes, adding a rear swaybar or adding an intake or header would bump you into another more competitive class.

STS would be for street tires (treadwear 140 or more) and some mods.
R Compound tires not legal.

FSP would be for similar mods as STS but R compound tires are legal.

Quote:
In Stock class, the base Fit has to use the 14” size wheel or it has to be converted completely to a Sport model in every way (except for the VIN). The Fit Sport can only use 15x6 wheels. The HPF wheels are not eligible for Stock.

Some cars are easier to convert from one model to another than others. Honda cars are usually not very easy at all. If the only difference is the wheels, then you can put 15x6 wheels on the base Fit and run it as a Fit Sport. But it looks like the base Fit would also have to have all these items added just to use 15x6 wheels:
• Security system with remote entry
• Body-colored underbody kit
• Body-colored rear roofline spoiler
• Fog lights
• Power windows and door locks
• Cruise control
• Steering wheel-mounted paddle shifters (5AT only)
• 200-watt AM/FM/CD audio system with 6 speakers
• MP3/Windows Media™ Audio (WMA) playback capability
• MP3/auxiliary input jack
• 15-inch alloy wheels

The car has to run as configured from the manufacturer. It doesn’t look like it’d be very easy (or legal) to run a base Fit with 15x6 wheels.
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[Jetydosa]

Hasnt all this been covered before?

However, I am curious as to how the base Fit can use the 15s if it is "converted" to a Sport? I have never heard anything like that before?

[Paulo107]

now that i got an axle-back i will put into a more competative class...i know i will get spanked so my driving will just have to be harder...just looking for more seat time and having fun for now till the big mods come in...thanks for the info though

[Chikubi]

Good information, but maybe my anti-authoritarian nature is getting the better of me here, because some of this seems absolutely ludicrous to me. I fully understand the need to differentiate classes based on mods that would affect performance, but to say that a Base Fit can't run a stock Honda 15" Sport alloy simply because it doesn't have a 200watt stereo, aux in jack, foglights, spoiler, etc. like the Sport makes me want to kick balls. Even moreso since they would be in the same class and for all purposes are the same car. Someone is going to have to prove beyond a doubt that there is any significant advantage/disadvantage to having/not having any of those items before I would even consider paying attention to that rule.

[MINI-Fit]

Originally Posted by Jetydosa

Hasnt all this been covered before?

However, I am curious as to how the base Fit can use the 15s if it is "converted" to a Sport? I have never heard anything like that before?

The information was discussed "unofficially" and it's still not set. This thread mentions current feedback from SCCA until the official word comes out. I would consider Doug Gill's opinion to be valid until we hear what happens.

Fastrack is announced each month with updates for rulings by the SCCA in their publication "Sportscar".

Conversion of the Base Fit to the Fit sport includes ALL of the changes or not at all for the purposes of using one set of wheels or the other.

In other words if you have a base Fit then run the 14" wheels or be prepared to make all of the trim changes mentioned to upgrade to a Fit Sport if you want to use the 15" alloy wheels. Once you convert it then pretty much you have a Fit Sport, wouldn't you? But for the purposes of the SCCA you're still in H-stock class.

So before you start buying a FIT if you'd like to autocross just think which set of wheels you'd like to use and let that be a factor in deciding between base Fit and Fit Sport.

In terms of the possible wheels-
Fit Sport comes with 15x6" rims +55mm offset and can run 205/50-15 tires including Kumho V710 which is reasonably priced ($160 each) for a competition tire.

Base Fit comes with 14x5.5" rims +45mm offset and can run 195/55-14 tires including the Kumho V710 for $130 each.

You can buy aftermarket wheels and put on street tires for driving to the events and have your stock wheels with competition tires in your trunk. You swap tires at the event. It's a hassle but the competition tires are so much better than street tires it's worth the effort. A battery powered impact wrench comes in handy as well as a racing floor jack.

An axle back exhaust is fine for H-stock class and so is a Cat back exhaust. But headers are not legal for stock class.

Common upgrades that bump you out of stock class:
Aftermarket Cold air intake
any throttlebody mod
any mod that increases boost
any mod to the stock ECU
any lowering spring
any rear swaybar
any wheel other than the stock sized 14" or 15" rims (same width, very close offset)
any aftermarket body panel or spoiler
any exhaust header
any short shift kit/ any aftermarket shift knob
any aftermarket racing seat
any removal of stock seats

For stock class you can legally:
remove the spare tire and tools
remove all rubber or carpet mats
remove all hubcaps on the stock 14" wheels
Do any alignment without adding adjustment parts
Use any front swaybar
Use any drop in air filter that fits the stock airbox
Use any motor oil
Use any brake fluid
Use any brake pad that fits the stock brakes
Use any spark plugs

For anyone that disagrees with these likely rules, you can petition the SCCA and ask that any stock wheel be run with any FIT but based on past experience it is not likely to be ruled in favor of your request.

Your own region will have to uphold the rules but at least on the national level these are the rules to be. Might as well be informed.

You can email Doug at
"Doug Gill" <DGill@scca.com>

[sLiVeRwOrM]

So I would be bumped from the stock setup since I got front & rear strut bars, lowering springs and CAI.. I wounder when the first race will come near me !

[Jetydosa]

Originally Posted by Chikubi

Someone is going to have to prove beyond a doubt that there is any significant advantage/disadvantage to having/not having any of those items before I would even consider paying attention to that rule.

Then you will get protested and then disqualified. The rules are what they are, but everyone must follow them. There are plenty of rules within SCCA Solo that are bizarre and make seemingly no sense, but you still have to follow them.

Any time you have a car to autox, you have to ask yourself, "do I want to build the most competitive car in XX class?" or, "Im going to build want I want to drive and to hell with winning/being competitive."

[MINI-Fit]

Originally Posted by sLiVeRwOrM

So I would be bumped from the stock setup since I got front & rear strut bars, lowering springs and CAI.. I wounder when the first race will come near me !

Any tower strut bar is not legal for stock- but aren't they easy to remove? If so you have a choice.

Any lowering springs and any cold air intake is not legal for stock.

So now given those mods you can keep the strut bars.

Now you have to decide on tires. If you run in street tires with treadwear of 140 or more then you can run in STS but if you run in R-compounds then you go to F- Street Performance (FSP).

If you increase boost then you go to Street Mod.

Originally Posted by Chikubi
Someone is going to have to prove beyond a doubt that there is any significant advantage/disadvantage to having/not having any of those items before I would even consider paying attention to that

If you are not winning your class and mostly just driving for fun and experience then odds are you'll not be hassled. However the rules for SCCA are clear and written for all competitors to see.

Fairness for any given model is often in doubt. It's better to keep the rules as they are, given all of the differenct variations of models and their parts.

What if most Miatas came with basic wheels but one year a limited edition version came out with a really good wheel. You can't use that special LE wheel on any Miata because it didn't come with that model, only the LE model of that year. Only by converting your Miata completely using the actual Miata factory parts could you complete the conversion. The rules are to protect all drivers from mixing and matching in Stock classes.

If you really like a particular upgrade setup then you can drive in the non stock classes but it's tougher to compete because some cars are modded to the maximum allowable within that class. And that's not fair for those that have just a few mods and are bumped out of stock class.

So, if you are just starting and don't need much more than a cat back exhaust, drop in air filter, R compound tires and a helmet then stock class is right for you.

Once you do a few mods you have to make a choice of sticking with a few mods you like or are within budget or mod your car to limit the class will legally allow. Even with mods galore you still may not be competitive, you still have to drive well and make up your handicap (called PAX).

Stock cars get the most favorable PAX especially the underpowered ones. Highly modded cars struggle to make up for a big handicap. You have to drive that much better.

Biggest mistake people make is to mod a car a little (like just a cold air intake) and use street tires (and stock rims).

If you are going to mod, it's wheels and tires that are going to help alot. If not in stock class then get the smallest outer tire diameter possible that will still fit over your brake calipers and hold enough load weight for your car and the widest possible rim (R compound tires to match).

[Chikubi]

Originally Posted by Jetydosa

Any time you have a car to autox, you have to ask yourself, "do I want to build the most competitive car in XX class?" or, "Im going to build want I want to drive and to hell with winning/being competitive."

For the moment, I guess I fall into the latter group for the simple reason I just want to have fun and learn something.

And I didn't mean to come across as an arrogant prick, it's just that in the past I'd been heavily involved in other non-auto related sports (shooting sports) and eventually quit as the politics and inanity of the rules turned something that was a very fun hobby into a nightmare of stupidity and politics. You could say it left a bad taste in my mouth, and to me the SCCA rules seem to have the same logic/illogic behind them, as well.

[MINI-Fit]

Originally Posted by Chikubi

For the moment, I guess I fall into the latter group for the simple reason I just want to have fun and learn something.

With a Fit you will definitely have fun.

And if you stick with it you will definitely learn how to drive your Fit at a very high level. It might take about 6 to 12 events but you'll get the hang of it.

Later you will be able to beat the times of drivers in many sports cars (some are not so easy to drive even though they have lots of potential) costing alot more than the Fit.

You can keep your mods and just drive in either STS class if you have street tires or FSP if you have R-compound tires.

On the local level SCCA events are pretty friendly.

[Paulo107]

Originally Posted by Chikubi

For the moment, I guess I fall into the latter group for the simple reason I just want to have fun and learn something.

And I didn't mean to come across as an arrogant prick, it's just that in the past I'd been heavily involved in other non-auto related sports (shooting sports) and eventually quit as the politics and inanity of the rules turned something that was a very fun hobby into a nightmare of stupidity and politics. You could say it left a bad taste in my mouth, and to me the SCCA rules seem to have the same logic/illogic behind them, as well.

i agree with you...i just want to have fun and drive. Will i get spanked? yes. With time going by and more mods and more$$$ into the car I know the Fit will be a contender...besides i am new to this and i do adapt very fast so i am not concerned to those that have the experience. So the rules are rules and at the end it is up to the driver of how the car will perform

[MINI-Fit]

Originally Posted by Paulo107

i agree with you...i just want to have fun and drive. Will i get spanked? yes. With time going by and more mods and more$$$ into the car I know the Fit will be a contender...besides i am new to this and i do adapt very fast so i am not concerned to those that have the experience. So the rules are rules and at the end it is up to the driver of how the car will perform

Much of autocrossing is learning how to read the course by walking it and adapting to each run and not making the same errors. Those who improve their skill will not need mods to do better, skill alone will prove king.

A stock FIT with some R compound tires can beat a modded FIT with almost any street tires given the driving skill of first driver is enough to make good use of the stock equiptment- it's attainable.

It's common to find some of the best cars with inexperienced drivers not doing well for 6 months then starting to learn enough to be contenders at some point in the first season. Some are quick learners. It's not that easy to drive a car with more power. Suspension usually makes the difference.