Alignment Question
#1
Alignment Question
Just curious, how much did you guys pay for your alignments AFTER you lowered your car. I didn't realize that lowered cars cost more until I got a quote from a local shop: 120 Dollars! What did you guys pay?
#5
Sorry for my ignorance, but would you recommend getting camber bolts first, or just get it aligned for now and get the bolts later? Mind you I do plan on doing a few autoX's if that helps...Thanks for you guys' fast responses
#6
you will be fine without them.
good thing you asked though cause that is crazy marked up.
the only thing i can say to watch out when you take it in and make sure you can see what they are doing cause when i tried to do mine at the dealer the hit my front lip and gashed it.
#8
only the front toe is adjustable on this car in stock form. get a 2 wheel alignment for like $50 if you want.
i just took my car to the dealer and got the 4 wheel alignment cause i wanted the
readings for the rear. $99+ tax.
i just took my car to the dealer and got the 4 wheel alignment cause i wanted the
readings for the rear. $99+ tax.
#10
odd, i paid $45 for my front-wheel alignment. i got a 4 wheel read out when it was all said and done.
i was expecting to pay an upwards of $60 so i tipped the guy that worked on my car before leaving.
i was expecting to pay an upwards of $60 so i tipped the guy that worked on my car before leaving.
#15
Front wheel alignment
Can anyone recommend some front wheel alignment specs for my 13 Fit Sport that I can relay to my shop? I want a more aggressive setting than stock to go with the Koni/Eibach shocks and springs and Progress 19mm rear sway bar I have coming in. I do a lot of canyon driving and have been chewing up the outside of my front tires very quickly on my stock set up.
Thanks!
Thanks!
#16
if you want your tires to last always get a 4 wheel alignment, even
if you can't adjust the rear (Which you can but only a real shop can
do it and it won't be 50 bucks..) You want the rear and front in thrust alignment.
Use the factory specs for your alignment, just because your running more
aggressive springs and struts does not necessarily mean you need or want a
more "aggressive" setting on the street. For a couple hundred bucks you can buy your
own tools that will be sufficient to properly align your car if you want,
its not rocket science.. Track alignment will make your car eat tires on the street usually.
if you can't adjust the rear (Which you can but only a real shop can
do it and it won't be 50 bucks..) You want the rear and front in thrust alignment.
Use the factory specs for your alignment, just because your running more
aggressive springs and struts does not necessarily mean you need or want a
more "aggressive" setting on the street. For a couple hundred bucks you can buy your
own tools that will be sufficient to properly align your car if you want,
its not rocket science.. Track alignment will make your car eat tires on the street usually.
#17
if you want your tires to last always get a 4 wheel alignment, even
if you can't adjust the rear (Which you can but only a real shop can
do it and it won't be 50 bucks..) You want the rear and front in thrust alignment.
Use the factory specs for your alignment, just because your running more
aggressive springs and struts does not necessarily mean you need or want a
more "aggressive" setting on the street. For a couple hundred bucks you can buy your
own tools that will be sufficient to properly align your car if you want,
its not rocket science.. Track alignment will make your car eat tires on the street usually.
if you can't adjust the rear (Which you can but only a real shop can
do it and it won't be 50 bucks..) You want the rear and front in thrust alignment.
Use the factory specs for your alignment, just because your running more
aggressive springs and struts does not necessarily mean you need or want a
more "aggressive" setting on the street. For a couple hundred bucks you can buy your
own tools that will be sufficient to properly align your car if you want,
its not rocket science.. Track alignment will make your car eat tires on the street usually.
@dwtaylorpdx- thanks for the quick reply, but I asked the original question because with the current stock alignment specs and suspension I am going through tires far too quickly. The outside shoulders are being chewed and chunked to bits far before the tread begins to wear down. Therefore I am looking for an alignment spec recommendation that will put more of a contact patch down to the ground when driving canyons. I am not so much concerned with driving flats and straights as I am in the turns.
#18
Hmm. so did you get a 2 wheel alignment last time or a 4 wheel thrust alignment?
In my town there is a tire shop that caters to the Rally and Road race crowd, Only shop I let do alignments any more. The dealer and generic shops just get them "in spec" and call it good. One thing your stiffer suspension does is push the tire harder, so the toe and camber spec may need actually softened up a bit..
http://www.spcalignment.com/faq?kbartid=94386 is interesting....
In my town there is a tire shop that caters to the Rally and Road race crowd, Only shop I let do alignments any more. The dealer and generic shops just get them "in spec" and call it good. One thing your stiffer suspension does is push the tire harder, so the toe and camber spec may need actually softened up a bit..
http://www.spcalignment.com/faq?kbartid=94386 is interesting....