Is front brake piston tool needed?

FrogDaddy · #1 (**permalink**) 07-12-2009, 11:57 PM

I just got fit service manual and need to do a front brake pad replacement. Seems pretty straight forward. It mentions special tool required: Brake caliper piston compressor 07AAE-SEPA101. In order that the caliper will fit over newly installed brake pads. Is this tool really necessary? Has anyone done their own front brake pads?

Thanks

Tork · #2 (**permalink**) 07-13-2009, 02:16 AM

You do have to compress the piston but I have never used a special tool. I usually use a block of wood, maybe pry on the wood with a screwdriver. Just be careful and take your time. Dont push the piston in crooked either as that can break it as well.
Also if you want or are worried, Autozone may have a tool you can borrow.

koolkevin1107 · #3 (**permalink**) 07-13-2009, 04:26 AM

U don't need a huge specialty tool for compressing any piston for that matter. All u would need to do is remove the brake reservoir cover and figure out a way to push the pistons back in. Tork's idea is pretty smart, but if u want something that is easier then a block of wood and wedging it, go to autozone and pickup one of these:

Cost me $6 for it and i use it for all cars. the flat metal part goes against the caliper and the round part goes against the piston. Just turn the dial and it will slowl push the piston back into it's position. Remember to go slow tho, u don't want air bubbles. They say u have to go 1-2cm per minute, so expect to be there for 2-3 minutes each caliper to push the piston back in.

FrogDaddy · #4 (**permalink**) 07-13-2009, 08:08 AM

Thanks. I thought c clamp was adequate too.

gd3vbp · #5 (**permalink**) 07-13-2009, 11:52 AM

I've always just used a set of large chanel lock plyers to push them back in. But I've seen quite a few different prying methods.

BlueCell · #6 (**permalink**) 07-13-2009, 12:40 PM

I use large set of channel locks with the old brake pad and just compress it. You can also use a C clamp, but thats not a normal item in my house.

FrogDaddy · #7 (**permalink**) 07-13-2009, 10:42 PM

Thank you all. Easier than I thought after passenger side. I bought the $8.99 tool koolkevin recommended at autozone. I put old pad over piston and used this tool and turned it slowly. These pads must have been worn because all fluid was in caliper(s). I didn't have to drain any excess brake fluid in order to get this to work. Once completed res. was full. Dealer wanted $186. I did it by purchasing helms manual and pads from HandA accessories. Probably about $80.00 and 2.5 hours time due to being careful.
koolkevin saved me $96.00.
Thanks again.

redrumm · #8 (**permalink**) 07-13-2009, 11:39 PM

yeah that tool makes it easy. good job on install!!!

blackdot_fit · #9 (**permalink**) 07-14-2009, 12:05 AM

when would it be necessary to bleed the brake system?

redrumm · #10 (**permalink**) 07-14-2009, 11:54 AM

when you upgrade to your stainless lines. do it you wont

BlueCell · #11 (**permalink**) 07-14-2009, 11:59 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by blackdot_fit

when would it be necessary to bleed the brake system?

If you just compress the piston back, you don't have to bleed the lines. If you feel your fluid is too old, you can bleed it out. Or as redrumm says, upgrade to stainless lines. Best upgrade for the money.

IBJanky · #12 (**permalink**) 07-14-2009, 12:13 PM

I just use a C clamp

myke

mahout · #13 (**permalink**) 07-14-2009, 05:09 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by FrogDaddy

I just got fit service manual and need to do a front brake pad replacement. Seems pretty straight forward. It mentions special tool required: Brake caliper piston compressor 07AAE-SEPA101. In order that the caliper will fit over newly installed brake pads. Is this tool really necessary? Has anyone done their own front brake pads?

Thanks

We use channel locks inserted between the 'fingers' and the piston. Opening the channel locks squeezes the piston back very nicely. If we want to be 'neat' we stop occasionally and rotate the piston a bit and align it carefully to the backplates afterward (and after just squeezing as well)

gimme · #14 (**permalink**) 07-16-2009, 07:02 PM

large channel locks and that funkytool kevin posted. whichever one i find first is what i use

it's pronounced iVTEC · #15 (**permalink**) 08-21-2009, 04:44 PM

I've always used a C-clamp, works just fine! when you're pushing the piston back it's a good idea to crack the bleeder a little bit to let the excess fluid drain out so you arent forcing it through the system, and then just top up the brake fluid at the master cylinder if it's lw and you're done!

mahout · #16 (**permalink**) 08-21-2009, 05:55 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by it's pronounced iVTEC

I've always used a C-clamp, works just fine! when you're pushing the piston back it's a good idea to crack the bleeder a little bit to let the excess fluid drain out so you arent forcing it through the system, and then just top up the brake fluid at the master cylinder if it's lw and you're done!

Recommend you just retract the piston slowly without cracking the bleeder so the fluid back tracks right where it should, the master cylinder.
Its a good thing to test the release port to make sure the piston retracts in use when brakes are released.

it's pronounced iVTEC · #17 (**permalink**) 08-21-2009, 07:04 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by mahout

Recommend you just retract the piston slowly without cracking the bleeder so the fluid back tracks right where it should, the master cylinder.
Its a good thing to test the release port to make sure the piston retracts in use when brakes are released.

also a great way of doing it

either way works great IMO

Tofuman · #18 (**permalink**) 08-26-2009, 03:39 PM

I used a C-clamp when I changed the pads on my Civic.