Slamming the rear?

[DrKelso]

I did a search and I couldn't find anything that anyone had posted about this. So, I apologize if this is a repost.

How do people mod the rear coilovers to bring the ass down to be even with the fronts? My fronts still have about 1.5" or so that I could go lower and the rears are all the way down. The front still sits lower, though. I love the way the fronts look and I'd just like to get the rears to sit at the same height. I've already removed the rubber cushion things so the springs sit directly on the adjustment cuff. I'm going to be removing the locking cuff soon as well, but that should only yield about 0.25-0.5" extra drop.

One thing I thought of was to take a saw/grinder to the rear lower spring mounts and cut/grind them down enough to bring the rear level with the front.

Does anyone have any comments/suggestions?

[gasper44]

I would never use a saw or grinder on the coilover sleeves themselves, no matter how hard you try, its going to end up uneven unless you have equipment made for doing the job right.

If you shorten the sleeve it will lower the overall height that you can bring the rear end down, but you will want to have this machined, as it was from the factory to ensure it is even and sits level, if it doesn't, you are f'd, simply put.

[DrKelso]

But the concept itself is still sound, no?

[dewthedew]

just put the coils in there f the collars and sleeves

[gasper44]

Originally Posted by DrKelso

But the concept itself is still sound, no?

It would work by theory, on EG/DC/EK chassis, the issue is the opposite, the coilovers in the rear can go much lower than the front, you have two options when lowering this type, lower by the perch, or lower by the mount which connects to the control arm which is how you are supposed to lower it to retain the pre-loaded spring. Well, when you lower all the way, the inner threaded sleeve hits the bottom of the control arm portion which has threads on the inside and bottoms out basically, machining the sleeve an inch shorter (making sure to not hit portion which is the damper itself). So what you are saying, its basically the same concept, opposite issue that EG/DC/EK owners have, on those cars, rear can tuck half the wheel lol ; however the front can't.

So your concept, its been done for years and years, its just a tiny bit different by same idea really.

[rvall004]

you cut the cups where the springs sit on

[DrKelso]

Originally Posted by gasper44

It would work by theory, on EG/DC/EK chassis, the issue is the opposite, the coilovers in the rear can go much lower than the front, you have two options when lowering this type, lower by the perch, or lower by the mount which connects to the control arm which is how you are supposed to lower it to retain the pre-loaded spring. Well, when you lower all the way, the inner threaded sleeve hits the bottom of the control arm portion which has threads on the inside and bottoms out basically, machining the sleeve an inch shorter (making sure to not hit portion which is the damper itself). So what you are saying, its basically the same concept, opposite issue that EG/DC/EK owners have, on those cars, rear can tuck half the wheel lol ; however the front can't.

So your concept, its been done for years and years, its just a tiny bit different by same idea really.

In the rear of the Fit, the Damper is separate from the spring.

Just to clarify what it is I'm talking about:



I hope that clears up any confusion

**note** The "rubber piece" pictured above has already been removed. The locking collar will be coming off once I am not sick anymore and have time to put my car in the air again.

+rep for amazing Photobucket editing tool technical drawing?

[gasper44]

I would have them both machined off by however much you anticipate to go lower by. You want them to work as close to factory. If they sit unevenly, you will eventually have issues.

[DrKelso]

Both what? Do you mean both sides (left and right)?

[gasper44]

Yea duh lol

Hope this helped you, but get it done professionally so it is even. You will thank yourself for doing it the right way if you dont have the proper tools to make sure it is 100%

[DrKelso]

Cool, thanks

Does anyone have any other tricks? So far, I've heard of/seen a few options:

1. Remove collars (soon to be done)
2. Machine the Cup
3. Cut the springs <-----NO WAY!
4. ...?

Anyone else have any other ideas?

[Will I Am fit.]

Don't do anything on your coilover just buy the D2 coilover springs for the rear that's what I have call D2 motorsports they can sell you just the springs and if you want you can include the perch that way you can adjust height.

In the future you can still sell your current coilover if you don't need them anymore.

[DrKelso]

Is the D2 Spring shorter than the Ksport spring?