Progress Auto Rear Anti-Sway bar! WITH DIY PHOTOS PAGE 5! - Page 20

manxman · #**381** (**permalink**) 12-26-2007, 12:30 PM

Botrh TunDaMan and SPON FIT are right. but leverage is the issue- use a longer wrench (but NEVER use an adjustable open end wrench on stubborn fasteners.

GeorgeC · #**382** (**permalink**) 12-27-2007, 02:59 PM

so don''t raise the spring perch, leave it all the way down?

and is it ok to use a torque wrench to loosen bolts, i heard its bad to use the torque wrench to loosen things

thanks guys really appreciate the help

gettinafit · #**383** (**permalink**) 12-27-2007, 03:27 PM

i wouldn't use the torque wrench for anything other than torque app.

J_L · #**384** (**permalink**) 12-29-2007, 06:13 PM

Ordered one up, after reading all the kudos. I don't want to lower so this bar seems the thing to do.

GeorgeC · #**385** (**permalink**) 01-01-2008, 05:25 AM

finally put it in, and its awesome

manxman · #**386** (**permalink**) 01-01-2008, 12:40 PM

Congratulations George!

GeorgeC · #**387** (**permalink**) 01-02-2008, 12:48 AM

thanks guys for the help

saved me some money for more stuff for the car

kenchan · #**388** (**permalink**) 01-16-2008, 12:50 PM

i tried the bar under my DF210's. i like it. it's not an aggressive difference which
i was afraid it might turn out. very progressive increase and non abrupt. very mild,
yet you know it's there.

<= happy kenchan

Illusive · #**389** (**permalink**) 01-16-2008, 04:46 PM

Just bought one, can't wait to get it in! However I'm probably going to wait until my new dampers come in before I install them...makes it easier to get everything done at once

BTW, I added the page number for the DIY photos in the title...took me a few minutes to find it, thought I'd save everyone else some time.

cndfit · #**390** (**permalink**) 01-16-2008, 07:18 PM

Does the sway bar have any noticeable effect when there's snow or ice on the roads?

Illusive · #**391** (**permalink**) 01-16-2008, 07:44 PM

Nothing will save you when there is snow or ice on the roads except for snow tires...

wlfit · #**392** (**permalink**) 01-17-2008, 12:49 AM

Hey everybody I need some help.

I tried unsuccessfully to install my Progress bar this evening. The shop who installed my springs must have used some strong loctite and I was therefore unable to detach my rear shock's bolt no matter how much hammering and turning I did with my hand tools.

I would hate to have to pay someone to do this for this little reason. Is there anyway to break the loctite grip without air tools? Put a lighter to it?

Actually I might just buy an Impact wrench for $50...

Thx

SPON FIT · #**393** (**permalink**) 01-17-2008, 01:12 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by wlfit

Hey everybody I need some help.

I tried unsuccessfully to install my Progress bar this evening. The shop who installed my springs must have used some strong loctite and I was therefore unable to detach my rear shock's bolt no matter how much hammering and turning I did with my hand tools.

I would hate to have to pay someone to do this for this little reason. Is there anyway to break the loctite grip without air tools? Put a lighter to it?

Actually I might just buy an Impact wrench for $50...

Thx

get a long pipe or something along that line and slip it over your breaker bar and i will give you tons more leverage to break the bolt

kenchan · #**394** (**permalink**) 01-22-2008, 03:57 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by cndfit

Does the sway bar have any noticeable effect when there's snow or ice on the roads?

i drove through some light and deep snow the last 2 days with the
progress bar under DF210's. it's not bad. as mentioned above, the
bar has a progressive feel and also has a stronger understeer bias;
i couldn't get the tail to spin out unless i forced it.

davela72 · #**395** (**permalink**) 01-22-2008, 09:58 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by wlfit

Hey everybody I need some help.

I tried unsuccessfully to install my Progress bar this evening. The shop who installed my springs must have used some strong loctite and I was therefore unable to detach my rear shock's bolt no matter how much hammering and turning I did with my hand tools.

I would hate to have to pay someone to do this for this little reason. Is there anyway to break the loctite grip without air tools? Put a lighter to it?

Actually I might just buy an Impact wrench for $50...

Thx

Do you know anyone with an electric impact gun? that might be the ticket or as said above, a long pipe over a breaker bar will most definitely do the trick!

manxman · #**396** (**permalink**) 01-22-2008, 11:16 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by davela72

Do you know anyone with an electric impact gun? that might be the ticket or as said above, a long pipe over a breaker bar will most definitely do the trick!

"Give a man a lever long enough, and he can move the earth".

kenchan · #**397** (**permalink**) 01-23-2008, 12:24 AM

if you can't crack a fastener loose with a 18"+ breaker bar i dont think
an electric impact gun is going to do the job. you're talking you need
more than 300ft/lbs of torque, probably.

perhaps you're better off asking someone with air tools to help you out.

smeister · #**398** (**permalink**) 01-23-2008, 12:50 AM

I forgot, why are you taking off the shock bolt? If you are doing the rear sway bar you do not need to take out the shocks. I know I didn't.

kenchan · #**399** (**permalink**) 01-23-2008, 01:40 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by smeister

I forgot, why are you taking off the shock bolt? If you are doing the rear sway bar you do not need to take out the shocks. I know I didn't.

we're talking (at least i am) about the lower bolt. not the rear tower
nut.

alf74 · #**400** (**permalink**) 02-04-2008, 02:57 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by manxman

alf74,
Your past posts indicate that drilling an extra hole through the spring perch on each side would not be a problem for you. If you have, or have access to, the right tools, this would be an easy job. You will need a 1/2" (50mm) electric drill (not battery operated- plug in to house current) and a set of cobalt drill bits.

If you buy the sway bar, my assumption is that you can install it exactly as the instruction sheet shows. You have only two holes in each spring perch of your Jazz, and I am guessing that the holes will match the position of the holes in the sway bar. But you will have one extra hole in the sway bar mounting flanges. Assemble the bar to your car as instructed. Use the extra holes as your guides to drill the necessary third hole through the bottom of the spring perches.

I recommend cobalt drill bits because the spring perches are hardened steel, which will quickly dull regular high speed steel drill bits. I recommend the 1/2" (50mm) electric drill because the spring perches are very thick and will take a powerful drill motor to complete the job.

If you must buy the cobalt drill bits, this job will justify the expense and you will be glad to have them in the future. If you have to borrow or rent the big electric drill, it's ease in accomplishing this task compared to a smaller (and weaker) drill motor will justify the effort or expense required to acquire the drill.

All in all, the extra cost of freight, import duty, and the special tools will not bother you at all after your first test drive with the sway bar on your Jazz.

As I said some months ago the sway bar doesn't fit my Jazz.... because it hurts torsion beam (clearly different from Fit)
But.... this afternoon I mounted it anyway!!! Inverting its position... and making 3 1/2 extra holes!
tomorrow i'll post my pictures... and my impressions