camber with proper toe will not kill your tires. i run 2* of neg camber on my car all the way around with proper toe and have 0 adverse wear problems (its not a fit)
Sorry, but BOTH camber and toe is a tire wearing angle. Just think about it. The only alignment angle that is NOT a tire wearing angle is caster.
Now, I've looked at my car today and noticed that the left rear tire also has LOTS of negative camber. enough to notice a big difference between the right rear. I'm taking it to the alignment shop just the get it checked out. if i's out,I'm taking it back to the dealer.
Hey, stock rear camber for the Fit is -1,5... so -2 is in spec
and normal... Hunter machine are precise but is the
rack 100% on level ground ? no! Every front traction
car run negative camber in the back, try looking at
the Yaris, same thing. -1 is visible with the eye, so
is -1,9. You cannot adjust the rear suspention at all
but front camber can be adjust with the strut bolt about
+- 0,5... front toe by the tye rods anf caster but unbolting
the 4 bolts of the subframe and shifting it (about +-0,7).
By the way, some of you are right, camber don't eat tires
that much, toe will. Oh, rear positive toe is normal on our
cars, it's for high speed stability and braking... and since
the back of the fit is so light, that normal amount of + toe
will not eat tires. Front should be set to 0 toe and 0 camber
(I like -0,5 with -2mm of toe) and caster to 3,5 without to
much cross caster because the Fit is short...
Hope that help, sorry for bad english,
Philippe
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VBP 2007 M\T Fit sport
Gram Lights 57s rims (15"X6,5" +43mm)
Yokohama S Drive tires (195 55 R15)
Fujitsubo Wagolis exhaust
OEM alu shifter knob
OEM floor mats So shitty...
Flake Radioactive Obnoxious Green paint
Anyone done an alignment after a drop? castor/camber kit needed?
Hey everyone,
I just called up a shop in town to bring my Fit in to get a wheel alignment done. The mech there said that I should have or might need a castor/camber kit installed..
I wasn't going to get an alignment, but after swapping out my stock wheels with my new ones, i noticed that the wear on the front tires was really bad on the insides and I don't want this to happen to my new wheels/tires.. and I've only have 7k on my Fit and about 5k since lowered.
I have dropped the Fit on 2 different sets of springs and took it in to get aligned after. Never needed camber bolts. I believe they sell them but the results show within spec both times.
Kris
__________________
06 Black on Black Lexus IS250
08 Honda CBR600RR Graffiti
07 Milano Red Fit Sport (Sold to dear old Mom!) www.poffworld.com
Everytime you drop, alignment is a must. regardless the wheels stay stock or changed.
Camber kit.. not a must but a "good to have"..
(because no matter how good the alignment is, extreme lowering will still wear tires un-even-ly)
__________________
Phoenix 4/6/01 to 6/7/03.
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RedComet II 11/3/05 to ??.
UnNamed Fit 6/18/07 to ??.
Former owner of:
00-PY ITR # 0078
91-BB NSX # 2716
Hey YeeFit, who did you book your alignment with? I got an alignment a few weeks back, you will definitely need to get one done. My specs were all over the place after lowering. Highly suggest you go get one soon. The guys down at the Kal Tire near Chinook on 42nd are really good and specialize in lowered cars.
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- KillerFit #10 - KRAFTWERKS Kit Owner #5
Yeah they can adjust the camber a little bit, but nothing dramatically. No kit as of yet like Claymore said, so don't let them convince you there is and for you to install it...if they do, its a lie...
__________________ Mugen - T1R - J's Racing - Spoon
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- KillerFit #10 - KRAFTWERKS Kit Owner #5
ok so from reading the previous posts what i have gotten is that with the fit, installing lowering springs does not affect camber, front or rear as much as civics or integras. but i drive ALOT and do not want ot negatively affect tire wear at all!!!, so the only option i have as of sept, 07 is to get the allignment bolts from honda corp. am i right or wrong? what was you guys final readings after alignment with skunk2 springs? just wondering, cause thats what i have to install.
Ask for the pinch bolts that allow front camber adjustment:
Honda Part number 90188-SCC-A00
Each about $4.77
You can use 1 or 2 each for right and for left. Maximum adjustment- use a total of four, otherwise 2 (one each side)
I used 2 for each side and got front camber -0.7 to -0.9 range vs -0.2 to -0.3 with stock bolts.
These bolts are size thread and length as stock but have slightly smaller diameter in the middle of the bolt which allows for a little adjustment.
After alignment using these bolts in the front-
Front camber -0.8 deg (right), -0.7 deg (left) [Stock setting + or - 1.0 degrees]
Front toe -0.11 (right), -0.12 (left) (Toe out) [Stock setting -0.12 to 0.12 degrees]
Caster 3.2 deg (right), 3.5 deg (left) [Stock setting 2.8 to 4.8 degrees]
Rear camber -1.8 deg (right), -1.7 deg (left) [Stock setting -0.5 to -2.5 degrees]
Rear toe 0.08 (right), 0.18 (left) (Toe in), [Stock setting 0.0 to 0.20 degrees]
Note- There were limits for adjustments on my Fit and this was the best the alignment shop could do.
(edit: The above part number is correct for USA Honda)
Recently got my Fit aligned yesterday, i recieved a paper with OEM specs and current... I input information into a WORD document, if anyone needs OEM specs its in there.
Hey this is some good news to everyone out there in need of an alignment. If you have a local firestone car care shop, they are running a special on their lifetime alignment, 119 instead of the regular 140. You can come in for an alignment free of charge for the life of the car, so it'll pay for itself. I'm heading in later today for mine - hopefully they don't scuff up the wheels
The deal runs til dec. 31st '07.
Other info to note, if all the facilities are pretty much the same, then they can only work on cars that have less then a 2 inch drop, so my skunk2's are great, but I'm not sure about other manufacturers.
Anyway, good deal considering you'll never have to pay for another alignment so long as you own the car.
hope this helps others out!
__________________ '07 Honda Fit Sport - ERNIE!
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With a Jazz Identity Swap!
so using lowered springs with anything prob significant such as 1.0 or more in front and rear that you need to just take to aligment shop and they will adjust a factory front suspenion bolt to fix alignment but the rear isnt affected or not affect enuff to worry????
I just had eibach sportline springs installed on my fit today and my toe is off, the guy at the shop showed me a print out of everything. He said its supposed to be between 0.00 degrees and 0.20 degrees. My left is 0.42 and my right is 0.31. He said there wasnt anything he could do but told me to research it online and see what i could find to fix it. He said maybe i should take it to a body shop and have the body modified a little bit. Any suggestions? I was thinking shims might fix it? The camber is totally fine tho. I didnt think these springs would lower the car THAT much but on my way home from the shop every little bump i hit, i heard the tire rubbing on the the car . Help!
I might be lowering my car this week and I'm planning on getting front camber bolts; So what are the best specs to set my camber/caster/toe to for the best tire life, but yet keep a good performance.
I know I should keep Toe to 0 and Caster within specs, but how about camber?
__________________
2008 Honda Fit Sport - 5MT
Vivid Blue Pearl
Powered by VTEC
Go Mods: Spoon N1 axleback, T1R B-pipe, T1R Test Pipe, Fujita SRI, T1R Crankshaft Pulley
Suspension: T1R S-Coil V2 Springs, SPC Camber Bolts
Show mods: Red Honda Emblems, Nokya H11 Fog lights
Others: Skunk2 Short shifter Adapter, Skunk2 Adapter, Mugen shift boot
I might be lowering my car this week and I'm planning on getting front camber bolts; So what are the best specs to set my camber/caster/toe to for the best tire life, but yet keep a good performance.
I know I should keep Toe to 0 and Caster within specs, but how about camber?
I don't think you can set caster.
Toe settings you can always change. Stock toe settings can be:
Front -0.12 to +0.12 degrees or 1/8" toe in to 1/8" toe out.
Rear 0.00 to +0.20 degrees or zero toe to 3/16" toe in.
For aggresive street and performance driving try-
Front -0.12 degrees or 1/8" toe out
Rear zero toe to 0.08 degrees or zero to 1/16" toe in.
Front camber to maximum negative you can get- usually about -0.9 degrees vs -0.2 for stock.
More toe out in front helps turn in response but excessive toe out wears your front tires and makes handling twitchy.
More toe in for rear helps straight line stability.
These toe settings are still within stock range so I'd expect tire wear to be good. You can go more aggressive but with additional tire wear. If you do low mileage driving then it won't matter much but if you do long commutes then stick to stock alignment range for toe.