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Try this one 15#s and proven used by a lot of SCCA cars. Plus password has a mounting kit for our Fits too. Plus it's almost Identical to the brail, t1r and kenetic so it's an easy replacement.
Hate to rain on your parade but the 240 cold cranking amps that battery puts out is 80 amps shy of the 320 the already weak stock battery has. Which almost wasn't enough a few times this past winter, for me.
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Hate to rain on your parade but the 240 cold cranking amps that battery puts out is 80 amps shy of the 320 the already weak stock battery has. Which almost wasn't enough a few times this past winter, for me.
I fully agree, 240 CCA is unacceptable even for our small engines.
Personally, I went with the Braille 3121 that's rated 550 CCA. Each battery is tested individually and certified for CCA. Mine came in at 645 CCA, nearly double the rating of the original lawn mower battery.
The only downside is the price, at $180 delivered. As far as service life, we shall see.
Hate to rain on your parade but the 240 cold cranking amps that battery puts out is 80 amps shy of the 320 the already weak stock battery has. Which almost wasn't enough a few times this past winter, for me.
he is in Cali though, so what does he cair about cold cranking amps.
I fully agree, 240 CCA is unacceptable even for our small engines.
Personally, I went with the Braille 3121 that's rated 550 CCA. Each battery is tested individually and certified for CCA. Mine came in at 645 CCA, nearly double the rating of the original lawn mower battery.
The only downside is the price, at $180 delivered. As far as service life, we shall see.
man, i looked all over for the cca of my spoon battery but there are just zero specs on it. i admit, after not driving my car for a few days, it struggles to start up, but that company makes bigger batteries. i would like to find the equivalent to my spoon battery, just lighter.
Pretty sweet . . . although if I had $900 to blow on something, I would NOT spend it on a battery. :laugh:
Maybe if I'm competitive in some racing class that allows it, and have exhausted all other avenues of weight reduction & performance upgrades, I'd think about it. But for a regular car, this is beyond overkill.
Pretty sweet . . . although if I had $900 to blow on something, I would NOT spend it on a battery. :laugh:
Maybe if I'm competitive in some racing class that allows it, and have exhausted all other avenues of weight reduction & performance upgrades, I'd think about it. But for a regular car, this is beyond overkill.
overkill is my middle name.........not really, its martin. but WHATEVER! haha
here is an odyssey 310 .....5.9 lbs prolly $95-$140 PC310 - Odyssey batteries
If it didnt work (310 Amps so it should work) you could hook up a second one and still be under $300
I use the 680 and was thinking of going down to the 535
I can also make you a custom hold down bracket like the one I made here.
by they way, this same Odyssey bat in the pic started up my 3.5L Nissan V6 (2&1/3 times larger than the Fit motor) in the dead of IL WI winters.
I honestly think the 310 will work
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SSR Type-C, RS*R Ti 2000, Odyssey Battery, Unorthodox Racing lightweight pulley set. Tork's $11 Grill mod, 1st JDM T-Light swap, Skunk 2 short shifter, rear wiper delete, front little wiper delete, PRM intake (the original longer tube design) I am forever humbled and grateful for my wife and I having the privilege of adopting our 2 daughters from China.
here is what they have to say about 'cold cranking amps' in relation to their battery design, and having used odyssey batteries since 1997 I have found it to be true.
Quote:
Cold Cranking Amps: For all the power, durability, and life of our technology, the cca ratings can seem disapointing. That's because the cca ratings are misunderstood. Odyssey batteries are SLI (starting, lighting and ignition), so if you are looking for a starting or reserve battery the cold cranking numbers can be irrelevant. The "standard" cca test measures the output of a battery for 30 seconds of crank at 0 degrees with the ending voltage of the battery being 7.2v. Some companies use 15 or 20 seconds and some companies use 32 degrees which can make for better results.
A vehicles starter isn't designed to withstand 30 seconds of cranking so we feel the batteries starting power is more important. The Odyssey part numbers represent the 5 second cranking power of the battery.
The PC680 is rated at 680 amps for 5 seconds, 595 amps for 10 seconds, and 525 amps for 20 seconds. Cranking power is even higher for the first four seconds. Similar sized lead acid batteries are only rated at 180 - 220 amps.
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SSR Type-C, RS*R Ti 2000, Odyssey Battery, Unorthodox Racing lightweight pulley set. Tork's $11 Grill mod, 1st JDM T-Light swap, Skunk 2 short shifter, rear wiper delete, front little wiper delete, PRM intake (the original longer tube design) I am forever humbled and grateful for my wife and I having the privilege of adopting our 2 daughters from China.
2nd is some very conflicting statements: "they are not fully sealed" and "Can be mounted in any orientation". I stopped reading right there.
I use to be pretty darn competitive in electric vehicle racing. Theres no way those are worth the price. I back Tork up and cannot say enough good things about ODYSSEY, as soon as those came out, that is all anyone used in ev racing from there on out. their energy density is huge, they are just beasts. The only other one I would pitch if you want to go a tad more extreme, was this one: Battery, 12 volt, 14 amp/hr Hi-Performance Race, Sealed AGM (you can get them with car posts as well).
heres some notes on putting in an underside race battery. These batteries are significantly more sensitive to heat changes. This greatly reduces their overall amp/hours, amp output and cold-cranking-amps. Heat destroys their longevity and cold can drain the charge like a motha. If you can get it far enough from heat or better insulate it, they are great to drop in during the summer if your someone who at least takes their car around the block every few days. Winter you may be taking a bit of a chance especially if your car spends alot of time sitting unheated. The only other scenerio to worry about is LONG periods of time you may be sitting at idle with the A/C cranked, that is a time you may be drawing more off the battery than the alt is generating.
I'm speaking from only the experience of using them in ev racing and the theoreticals of using them as a DD car. My buddy has proved me wrong on using them in practice. He also runs a ODYSSEY (smaller size than Trok's) on a V6. Its a pleasure vehicle and IIRC a summer only type of thing but he's well over 5 years with his (the figure I've always been told from inner circles has always been 6 month use life but since we only ran a handful of events a year and bought new each season, I have no first hand data on their actual wear).
I have to agree that a race battery is worth pursuing. last weekend I used my fit as a mobile boombox for the beach party. That car took many hours of drain and started up without hesitation. It was very intentional the hours I let it sit with the radio blaring (and running the headlights at times) to see how long it would take before it needed a jump... still haven't found that point. ya, you can definitely cut out a lot of amp/hours without any real compromise.
anyone else have pics of their race batteries mounted? I'm curious what people are dropping in their fits. Fabbing up a proper mount can sometimes be a bit tricky... If theres a consensus with a particular battery, I could get some proper mounts made up to have a stock like fit, although I'm kinda biased to the ODYSSEY.
im actually just going to stick with my spoon battery. i had a bad ground on the battery and since have fixed it and its working great again. no need for a new battery.
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