My 5k has just passed and I plan on taking it in the shop for an oil change and a few fixes. However, I wanna try to use Synthetic oil and they normally cost a lot more. What do you guy think about going from factory opil to synthetic, think there would be any problem with that?
I would like to do it myself, I use to have a high truck so that was easy to get under. Without a ramp, what is the best way to get under my FIT to change the oil? The sides are so low that I will probably need to park the side on the sidewalk to get under there.
I've heard that it's kinda difficult to change oil on a honda, is it the same for the fit or is it relatively simple?
What kinds of filter should I get for the Fit? I want a good filter and don;t mind paying a little more. If you guy can tell me the brand, size I'd very much appreicate it!
i highly recommend NOT using synthetic oil during the first 10K miles. The reason is that with the synthetic oil, the engine will not "break in" properly
i dont actually own a fit but ive been under one and it looks pretty simple to do, oil filter is in the open if i remember correctly, i say you do it yourself, get the experience and save a couple bucks. Mobil 1 full synthetic is pretty good, ive seen a 5 quart container at walmart for 23 bucks and i suggest sticking with oem honda oil filters (usually the filters work with most hondas).
It's quite simple. It's one of those things where once you try it, you'll realize how easy it is. Use gorilla ramps. Be sure to buy a self tightening oil filter remover/tightener. It's the kind where the more when you turn it, it tighter the grip gets. As for the oil drain screw, you should purchase on ebay a "FRAM SUREDRAIN" Our car uses size: SD-2. This will make life so much easier otherwise you end up spilling oil everywhere.
As for oil, you can use synthetic. In fact, check out Walmart. Their Castrol Syntec 5-20 5 quart jug is only $21.00 compared to paying $6.00 per quart of Mobil 1 5-20 synthetic. You'll be lucky to find Mobil 1 5-20 in a 5 quart jug.
People argue that synthetic shouldn't be used until 10,000 miles since a lot of deposits are still being released from the engine. Many other feel that 3,000 miles surpasses the break-in point.
Personally, what I used was Motorcraft 5-20 Synth-blend from walmart on my first change, that way I wont spend so much on removing the extra deposits. I drove it for 3,000 miles, and now I'm using all Castrol Synthetic with 7,500 change intervals.
I did my first oil change at 300miles. (remove metal and what not)
Easiest thing Ive done in my life. Cute little oil filter also.
I suggest a Purolator PureOne oil filter. (metallic blue in color) Cheap and IMO; the best.
Im running some 5000mile clean oil? I forgot the name. My next change will be synthetic. Mobil1
I usually change the oil in all my own cars. However when I went to do the first change in the Fit, to my dismay the front jack point is WAY under the engine, so my floorjack cannot reach it! I only have a single car garage so I cannot jack from the side either. :-/
When I change on hondas, I use the car's tire jack at the specified jacking point underneath the side rocker panel. I raise it up a few inches at most to get the low-profile pan underneath the oil drain. Piece of cake. Sometimes once the pan is underneath, I'll lower it back down to get max drainage.
Also, I never use those pesky oil filter wrenches. Hands work best!
I've not done mine yet, but I think the Fit should be a 15 min job.
Thanks for the info guys, where can I get the EOM filters?
Purolator PureOne oil filter should work fine huh? I heard from somewhere to only use EOM filters.. but i'm not sure what it is nor where to get it.
When I change on hondas, I use the car's tire jack at the specified jacking point underneath the side rocker panel. I raise it up a few inches at most to get the low-profile pan underneath the oil drain. Piece of cake. Sometimes once the pan is underneath, I'll lower it back down to get max drainage.
You should never work under a car supported only by a tire jack.
__________________ Aloha, Kelly
2007 FIT base Storm Silver MT~ 15" Heliums w/ RE-01R, Progress RSB 07 Si Sedan Rallye Red
You should never work under a car supported only by a tire jack.
I completely agreee...however, in this situation one could hardly argue that the car is supported by the jack..the jack is only lifting the car's chassis high enough to slide the oil pan underneath, usually about 2-4 inches or so. All tires are still on the ground. And I don't usually get directly under the car to change the oil. But you are right, jackstands or other support is a must.
I had 1 question as I'm about to do my first oil change on my fit. In the manual it says to tighten the oil plug back to 38ft/lbs. Now does everyone have a $100 torque wrench except me or do you just "tighten it but not to tight"?
It would be a good idea to use a torque wrench. Too loose and you stand the chance of the plug falling out and too tight you will end up stripping the threads of the plug or worse, oil pan.
I had 1 question as I'm about to do my first oil change on my fit. In the manual it says to tighten the oil plug back to 38ft/lbs. Now does everyone have a $100 torque wrench except me or do you just "tighten it but not to tight"?
My local Autozone has cheapo torque wrenches for like $25.
If it's too shabby quality, you can pick up a good one for double that. Either way it's a good tool to have and there's no reason to spend $100.
It's quite simple. It's one of those things where once you try it, you'll realize how easy it is. Use gorilla ramps.
Andy
Pardon my ignorance, but what are gorilla ramps....I googled for them and nothing of that name showed up. I know what ramps are, but being that the Sport is low profile, I would think they would scratch going up and down...???
__________________ BOM Sport 5MT - 11/16/06
Honda Sport Muffler, Bumper Applique, All-Season Floor Mats.
16" HFP rims with BF Goodrich g-Force Sport Tires
Linear Mode
