I just got back from town and waited until the fan kicked in to cut the engine off and found that mine also came on at 213.. I haven't seen over 190 degrees even in the 100+ ambient we are having right now unless in stop and go driving or shortly after passing groups of slow moving trucks in 4th gear at full boost.... My IATs generally are 40 degrees below the FWT when cruising at 70 MPH but the difference between the two easily drops 10 degrees when not moving or after being on boost.

 

So you are saying after your engine was turned off the temperature increased up to 213 degrees? Got me thinking that the Scangauge will probably record temps after the engine off as I still get a voltage reading on mine after ignition is turned off. All my temp readings above were with the engine on. Once engine is turned off (and fan) the heat will soak and increase quite a bit. Of course without the engine moving it doesn't cause as much concern but still a temp rise of 30 degrees seems excessive.

I will check my Scanguage memory for water temp and report back. Since this post I have been watching it more closely and still never never ever over 184 degrees even under the most extreme conditions, A/C on, outside temp over 100 degrees, under direct sun, my car is black and idling non stop for over 1 hour (kid sleeping in car).

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I hope my radiator fan works.!. to my knowledge I have never ever heard it turn on in 3 years of driving. I must be too nice to it.

I saw the FWT up to 178 degrees yesterday so summer must be almost here. Normally it stays at 174-176 as if it's got ice on reserve to keep it there, of course unless it's really romped on. If the cooling system is working right this motor never really gets hot. That is, unless you're TC and are putting the power of a spunky v6 down the crankshaft. Such a diff from my older Hondas.

 

Ok, so after reading the Fit service manual, I just found out that my A/C condenser fan is the one that's not working, and not the radiator fan. I still can get close to 200 degrees, especially after a long, steep hill with AC on, but normal driving is around 177-190.

The radiator fan is the one closest to the radiator cap, right?

 

To the best of my recollection, both fans should work in unison, since the AC Condenser is in front of the radiator.

 

^Yeah, that's the thing. Even with A/C on, only the driver side fan will work and not the other one. It will operate normally and cycle normally, but just that one fan.

 

This Honda is different than the old VW Rabbits I used to drive in that the fan doesn't stay on after shutting down when hot and the engine shuts down. I checked the manual and found that the thermostat begins to open at between 176 and 183 degrees F and is fully open at 203 degrees F... That sounds pretty wild to me... The cooling system like requires 3.8 liters or 5.7quarts of coolant when changed.... I haven't checked to see if the temperature rises after shutting the engine down but most engines tend to get hotter when at idle after driving at 70 or so or climbing a hill and then slowing to an idle.... My old Harley Shovel Head got real hot after cruising at an easy 60MPH and then stopping at a traffic light but it would eventually cool down... It needed to be ridden at least 40 to not overheat or have the enrichening valve (needle jet) adjusted pretty rich after I tweaked the hell out of it. I think those things were antiques in the 60s and they have changed very little since.... @oofie Yes sir your radiator fan is doing it's job but the A/C needs some help... Check the fuses and relay....

 

Anyone notice that their cars run a bit hotter and lose mpg right after an oil change? I just did an oil change last weekend and noticed that my car will run hotter and idle hotter. Im also down 1.5-2 mpg.

I used mobil1 fully synthetic 5-20w.

 

Hi,
no I didn't. I'f I'm not wrong, my car runs mobil 1 0-40.

Stupid question: did you check the oil level?

HTH

 

I have never noticed any difference in oil temperature after an oil change but I would seem to me that the temperature would be lower with clean oil unless you had changed to a different weight.... I read that 0w40 is very commonly used in European countries but in the U.S. 5w20 has been recommended since 1996 or 1997 in the U.S as a means of reducing gasoline consumption... I didn't feel good about using the oil minder as a means of determining at what time to change oil when using 5w20 when my engine was stock... I am having to use 10w30 now because lower viscosity ends up in the combustion chambers when on boost and ends up on the back bumper and rear window... It gets real messy when you drive on dirt roads.

 

Yeah, its really odd as I usually get lower mpgs for a couple of hundred miles after an oil change. As for the temps, its my first oil change since getting my gauge, so I have no idea what was happening before.

 

0w40 is an ash less oil and is a very good oil but hard to find in the States. The MM is good enough because of the new cleaner fuels and cleaner running cars. Running the supercharger you want to change the oil more frequently any ways.

We got my Sons Turbo to the tuners and it needed a Map sensor, Car is running great now. Needs more work but at least we know the engine is OK. Going to use 10w30 in that car too. 10w30 seems to be the minimum oil for a turbo/supercharged car for the oil consumption reasons.

 

What about an automatic transmission?

 

...digging this one up 'cause I'm running a SG2, but I didn's see "voltage" on searching the thread.

Does SG2 read voltage strangely? Question comes up because I thought my battery was getting a little tired and figured watching the SG might give some clues. Well, the voltage seems to fluctuate wildly, and frequently appears to show a non-charging alternator. On the course of my commute, the voltage would drop to 12.6 - battery voltage - and then drop slowly some times getting down to 11.9. When I put an external digital voltmeter on the alternator, it was a rock-solid 13.9-14.1.

When the SG2 was showing a normal voltage, the DVM was showing a pretty consistent 0.2V higher than SG2. This I would expect, maybe some losses in the wiring between the battery and the OBD port that the SG2 plugs in to.

So, I guess my question boils down to this - does SG2 sample or report voltage in an unusual way, or does the voltage regulator for the GD3 Fit operate in an unusual way? I think I've pretty much ruled out a bad alternator, and I don't think my battery is necessarily on the way out, but I'd like to know if SG2 acts strangely under normal circumstances so I can keep this in mind in the future.

Thanks!

Clair

 

mine read voltage just fine and was one of the 4I always displayed because of some night time P&G.

 

My SGII displays voltage perfectly on my GE8. I've had it set up for monitoring voltage for 1-1/2 yrs without issue.

How did you rule out a bad alternator?
Have you inspected your serp belt lately? It might be slipping at certain rpm's.
Did you buy SGII new? Try reseting it to back to factory defaults.
Make sure the OBDII plug is fully seated also, it could have wiggled out slightly.

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Yes it does. Under 50 MPH with no or light load, the alternator will stop charging and let the battery float to reduce parasitic engine load. As soon as you turn on a high current accessory like the headlights or the fan (to 3 or 4) it should go to 13-14 volts.

It will also charge any time you take your foot off the gas, and any time you are driving over 50 MPH.

 

Just chirped my tires in 2nd gear with my ge8 stock motor is that normal?

 

Yes, especially if you’re driving a manual transmission.

If your tires are cold or worn, or if the pavement is wet, that will also make it easier to chirp going into 2nd.

Now, if you’re doing burnouts in 2nd gear, let us know your secret!