We just bought a 2008 Fit Sport with AT (Milano Red) that we intend to tow behind a Motor Home. I know it can be done and I am aware of the procedure. My questions are about the pulling fuses for the radio/clock display so the batt doesn't go down. Anyone doing this? Also does anyone know if the ODO will register the miles towing in N with the key in ACC? (we know people who disable the ODO on tow cars, seems illeagle, but on the other hand, you're racking up miles that really aren't on the engine)

Thanks for any help.

 

So other than putting the trans in N what is the procedure?

If it were me I would disconnect the battery after the car is in N. That will keep the miles off it, and IMO, easier than pulling little fuses.

--D

 

The usual way to tow a front wheel drive car is to put the front wheels on a little, low to the ground, trailer that is made for this purpose. It works just like a little tow truck. The Fit front wheels are strapped down to the towing trailer so they do not turn, and the Fit rides on only its back wheels. No need to disconnect anything. Tow the Fit to wherever you want, put the drive wheels back on the ground, and drive away.

 

^^Thats the way I would do it. No chance of harming the internals of your tranny that way, and no worries about accumulating miles either. Dollies can be had for fairly cheap as well, less than a grand I believe.

 

I have an 09 auto reserved for delivery the end of Sept. that I plan to tow behind my motorhome. The 08 is certified by Honda to tow 4 down and as the 09 has the same transmission it will be towable also (per dealer). No one has a tow bracket designed for the 09 yet so this may delay my departure this fall. As far as I know the car is left in neutral with the switch in acc. and no mileage is accumulated. A transmission recycle procedure must be done every 500 miles. The procedure is in the 08 instruction manual.

 

Yes, I understand the procedure. I am wondering about loosing batt charge with running the key in acc. The radio display/clock is active with the key in that position.
For the other replies, I don't want to tow on a dolly. It has a host of problems itself and do not want to disconnect the batt because I need the 12v to power the Brake Buddy that stops the Fit if there is a break away or panic stop.
My questions were if anyone was pulling fuses for the clock and if mileage accumulated with the tran in neutral and the key in acc?

 

You don't need the key in ACC if you follow the correct towing prosedure.
Turn of your enging and take the key out of the ignition keyhole.
There is a small slot beside the AT gear shifter, put the key down into that hole and press it down a little. Then you release the shifter and is able to put it in Neutral without having the key in ACC position. Remember to turn on the emergency lights on the car. (Well we have to do it here in my country at least, I dont know how it is "over there".)
There is no need to disconnect the battery. Unless you want to tow it for weeks...

Or maybe it is me that missunderstand how you are going to tow the car?
The manual also state that you should not tow the car for long this way, it is prefered that the front wheels is of the ground and not moving. According to my manual at least...

 

For some reason Honda did not approve the 07 Fit for towing 4 down but did approve the 08 with the same transmissions and so states in the 08 instruction manual. Honda officially approves only the CRV and the 2008 Fit for towing 4 down. I did not know that the radio display stays lit if the radio and lights are off but if so the amount of battery loss would be very little and would not require removing the fuse. The engine has to be started every 8 hours of towing and would probably make up such a small loss. Thanks.

 

All rise for the reading from the manual. Today, we take our lessons from pages 173 to 175.

Quote:

Towing Your Vehicle Behind a Motorhome
Your vehicle can be towed behind a motorhome at legal highway speeds up to 65 mph (100km/hr). Do not exceed 65 mph (100 km/hr). Otherwise, severe transmission damage will occur.

When purchasing a tow bar, make sure you select a reputable manufacturer and installer. Follow the manufacturer's attachment instructions carefully.

NOTICE
The steering system can be damaged if the steering wheel is locked. Leave the ignition switch in the ACCESSORY (I) position, and make sure the steering wheel turns freely before you begin towing.

Automatic transmission:
Perform the following procedure every day immediately before you begin towing. Otherwise severe automatic transmission damage will occur.

1. Check the transmission fluid level (see page 193). Do not overfill.

2. Start the engine.

3. Press on the brake pedal. Move the shift lever through all its positions.

4. Shift to D position and hold for 5 seconds, then to N. Let the engine run for 3 minutes, then turn it off.

NOTICE
Severe transmission damage will occur of the vehicle is shifted from reverse to neutral and then towed with the drive wheels on the ground.

5. Release the parking brake.

6. Leave the ignition switch in the ACCESSORY (I) position so the steering wheel does not lock.

7. Make sure the radio is off and remove any item plugged into the accessory power socket so you do not run down the battery.

Extended Towing
If you tow more than 8 hours in one day, you should repeat the aboce procedure at least every 8 hour (when you stop for fuel, etc.)

NOTICE
Failure to follow the recommended instructions exactly will result in severe automatic transmission damage. If you cannot shit the transmission or start the engine, your vehicle must be transported on a flat-bed truck or trailer.

If you tow your vehicle with an automatic transmission, the Honda Genuine ATF-Z1 transmission fluid must be changed every 2 years of 30,000 miles (48,000 km), whicever comes first.

Please be seated.

If you use the emergency Shift Lock Release to put the trans in Neutral, the steering column will still be locked, doing damage to the steering system and your front tires.

To answer your question about the battery: Evidently, as long as the radio itself is turned off and you've nothing hooked into the cigarette lighter plug, the only thing that remains energized is the LCD display backlight, which uses very little amperage and won't discharge your battery.

Unlike a mechanical odometer, the digital odometer in your Fit only works when the key is in the RUN (II) position. The mileage towed will not register.

 

Thanks E=Mc2, I had already read the manual and was aware of the procedure, but you did answer my questions about the fuse and odo. I appreciate it.
Happy Miles.

 

Call a tow truck for me, 'cause I know I can't do that!

 

Ooops.

I guess my 'F' key decided to go to lunch.

 

thanks E=MC2 I could not get a clear answer on the od issue. So I bought anyway, and figured I would find out. Now all I have to do is get it ready for tow. Getting a tow base plate from blue ox, instructions are clear but I am not sure how hard it will be getting the front bumper off, most said easy any tips on dealing with the clips under ther head lights and finder would be a grear help. Also what is best place to run a lighting wire through the fire wall into the cabin area. anyone with knowledge on this?

 

Thanks E=Mc2, great post. I will read my manual, but first I need to setup the fit for towing behind my class A motorhome.

I would like to know the steps in doing this, I know it is extensive? For example, I was told the whole front end needs to be removed to put the "base plate" on.

I have a 2011 fit. If anyone has had this done, what cost can I expect?

thanks,

WinFit

 

I put one only 2011 fit (automatic) you do take the front end off, simple if you read the manual, I purchased a demo plate because that's what my tow bars are.I did it myself with no help. I put it up on blocks to keep from bending over so much. Two holes to drill, two holes to enlarge ( drill out), no aim not a mechanic but the idiots around here want 3 to 4 hundred dollars to install it, 2 people at 3 or 4 hours at $50.00 an hour, you can do it yourself, don't be afraid to try, yes buy the tool to remove the plastic plugs it is much easier, you don't rack up miles, your battery will not run down, I pull it 8 hours at a time, just follow instruction in manual, just DONT shift from reverse to
when you set switch to acc and remove key.

 

this process is easy, Bought base plate from Blue Ox, through etrade. about 350.00, I perfer this over roadmaster due to low profile and lack of cross bar. Base plate was a good fit, for the fit. You do have to take off the front bonnet, but good instructions are given, you can save a ton on $$$. Another plus you keep and use the bumper cross piece with blue ox with road master you replace it. The light kit I was not in love with. It called for drilling holes in tail light assembly. instead I made up a pair of LED's trailer lights with magnets. and ran a plug towards rear. no holes and the led's are brighter for being seen. no milage racks up but follow owners manuel to the letter for automatics. Now regarding wires from engine to underdash for brake controller, this is one tight car. I found that on automatics there is a place next to brake pedal for a cluch, this knock out allows room to drill hole but you will need a fish tape. good luck

 

Thanks for the replies. I don't have the time, so I had the work done, it cost $4,000 for everything. Went with RoadMaster All Terrain Falcon.

The "Even Brake" System uses the car battery to operate, so they put in a charge line to charge the battery as we go (the ford chassis already had the electric plug).

I am a little concerned about the angle of the tow bar. Since the fit is low and the motorhome hitch is high they use an extender bar that lowers the connection to match the fit. It still is not a straight line, a slight angle going up to the motorhome hitch. I found a catalog that shows that you should NOT deviate by more than 3" above or below the horizontal hitch line. I am going to measure this next time I "hitch" it up. Also, I think they should provide a light that indicates the battery is charging (I suppose you could just put a meter to it).

Thanks again,

 

Brand new to the forum, but wanted to add my two cents and what I have found, plus get some feed back from you all! We have a 2010 Honda Fit Sport manual trans. Bought a good used HM last summer with a tow bar and looking at setting up the fit to be towed behind for this summer. Internet searches led me to e-trailer.com (several good ones found) and the products & expertise they offered. (videos and Q&A)


Looking at the Blue Ox base plate, the Hopkins lighting kit (plug ins, no drilling into light box) one-time installation, brake relay and the NSA ReadyBrake supplemental braking system and emergency breakaway system. adding a RVI towed battery charger and a Drive/tow fuse switch instead of pulling the mini-fuse each time. About $1,500 in all said and done.


Joined the forum to see how you all get in and around the engine and transmission to the firewall to install two brake cables for the ReadyBrake & the emergency breakaway braking system. Both are cable activated, connecting to the brake pedal arm through the firewall to the front of the fit. My initial thought is remove the right front wheel, and plastic wheel well panels, remove battery & air filter box to gain engine side access to firewall.


Any other recommendations/pictures anyone can provide for assistance?

 

No problems. No fuse pull. I did install a "battery minder" that links the constant 12V line from the RV to the minder, which ties in to the Fit's battery. When towing, I leave the Fit ignition switch in the ACC position, which is the first position turning the key clockwise that allows the steering wheel to remain unlocked. No odometer mileage accumulation the Fit.

HOWEVER, at 17,000 miles odometer reading on the Fit, not counting about 8-10K towed miles), my AT began to make a noise shifting at about 22 mph (of course not being towed). I searched this forum and I was advised that this is a torque converter noise and is common, particularly at about 30,000 miles. So I followed the Forum's procedures for an ATF change. My fluid was very dark.

After draining and refilling the ATF, I disconnected the ATF coolant line at the base of the radiator (near the bottom radiator hose), and had my wife run the car briefly while I filled, in turn, three quart bottles with old ATF. By that time the color had grown pretty clean. Topped it up and no noise now.

 

Afraid I don't recall exactly how I ran the wires back. But I know I did not remove anything. Basically found a grommet in the area beneath the driver's dash and poked a hole through it, then resealed it with caulk.

I bought a used Brake Buddy on Craig's list so I could be in compliance with the law in all states, although I think it is superfluous to use it on a 2500-pound toad behind a 39-foot motorhome. Had a little difficulty setting the brake's sensitivity on first trip and ruined a set of rear brake shoes, so ever since I find that the Brake Buddy's power supply has mysteriously wiggled loose while I am on the road.

Did make one mistake on my initial setup. I measured the difference in height on my RV's tow receiver and the tow bar receivers on the toad. Calculated 7.5 inches so I ordered a 7.5 inch drop receiver. That thing scraped everywhere, even wearing safety cables in two. Found that first I had measured before loading everything so perfectly level was probably 6 inches. Then purchased a four inch drop double receiver, so I can use the bicycle rack on the RV.