General Fit TalkGeneral Discussion on the Honda Fit/Jazz.
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I'd do my own oil changes if Honda were to charge me, but I get 5 years free oil changes, so I'll let them do it for me hahaha...I think I will go to synthetics next time around and get some Motul or Mobil 1 instead of their oil.
there is an old chinese saying
"the wool came from the sheep's body" (in a reference to the fact that after the sheep got the wool cut, they wore the sweater it made)
the 5 years of "free" oil change was probably built into your price
When I changed my oil/filter, I saved my original filter- I only did so because I wanted to be able to compare it to one that I could buy just like it. Does anyone know where you can get that exact same oil filter?
Yeah, its a FRAM (honeywell). No kidding.
There are enough brands out there that will exceed their specs: Purolator Pure One or Purolator Premium Plus. Napa Gold (Same as Wix www.fleetfilter.com). Mobil 1.
There are enough brands out there that will exceed their specs: Purolator Pure One or Purolator Premium Plus. Napa Gold (Same as Wix www.fleetfilter.com). Mobil 1.
Does FRAM (Honeywell) make their filters in Japan? the filter I pulled off says Made in Japan on it. Other markings are Mahle Tennex and T6307.
i HAVE 20% NOW SO MAYBE THIS WEEKEND OR THE OTHER. i WILL GO TO THE DEALER TO HAVE WHATEVER HONDA FILTER THEY USE, AND START THE MANT LOG. THEN AT MY 4TH CHANGE OR 3RD I PLAN TO CHANGE TO SINTETIC (WISH MOTUL$$) AND MAYBE MOBIL 1 FILTER.
__________________ Deleted muffler, Progress springs Sway Bar steel braided brake lines front strut tower brace Hawk pads konig heliums
Too much hard driving http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KzuFKPyHSEY (track lap!!)
Has anyone done this? I've driven almost 5000 miles and haven't done it. is it necessary for the sake of the engine's longevity or just as "myth" as engine breaking? I checked the oil and the oil level is fine, bukt i was wondering if the initial oil change has nothing to do with oil level.
I just did my first oil change, myself, this weekend. I waited until the oil indicator light hit 15%. I had 6,300 mile on my Fit before The indicator light hit 15%.
As for the myth and oil level... I'm not completly sure. It's hard to imagine that these new engines will have any ill effect from an oil change @ 5,000 miles vs. 6,500 miles.
__________________ avosfit - The Short Bus
2007 Honda Fit Sport 5pd...
Skunk2 Springs + Short Shifter
16" Konig Helium (12.0 lbs) in Cooper 205/45R16
Cross Drilled and Slotted Rotors
15% tint
Custom CAI and Intake manifold Insulation
JDM Smoke Tail lights
Update: my bro taught me how to do it, and i did the oil change today. i also changed the filter
Quote:
Originally Posted by aziatiklover
I'm at 5000 and I still have 40% oil so iono if I should change it or just go till 15% or 10%???
The first oil change is not considered part of the regular oil change. the reason is when the engine is breaking down, the debris and junk cumulate in the initial oil, and that's why you replace it.
I just did the oil change for the fit at 3000 miles as recommended by the dealer for the first oil change. From what I saw, the oil was a little too dark for 3000 miles.
My dealership said the initial oil in the car has special additives that are just for the break-in process. I will check to see how dark it is later, and make a decision then. I have about 2400 miles and I'm at 70%.
Yep, its just like any other oil. There hasnt been any proof that Honda uses a special additive. And if they did, I would imagine that they would proudly specify that in their manual. And without proof its all specualtion. Maybe someone will do a VOA from their new car oil so we can demystify it for good.. But dark oil doesn't mean that it is bad oil. Dark oil means that it's doing it's job of cleaning, and most oil's cleaning agent activates at a higher temperature causing it to darken. The best way to test oil is by taking a drop or two out with the dipstick. Drop it into a small cup of water.. If it beads up like water on a waxed car, then the lubrication properties are still good. If not, the lubrication is exhausted or there is too much moisture in the oil. Another good tip is to smell the oil. If it smells sweet, then you have a coolant leak. Otherwise, darkened color doesn't mean much.
If you are concerned about the special additive (Moly), yet insist on changing your oil early, then use Havoline. It has the highest Moly content of all oil and has a great additive package.
I'll be changing my oil at 2500 miles with Motorcraft 5-20W Syn Blend. Then run it for 3k miles
before I switch it to Castrol Syn Blend 5-20 for another 3k miles. After that it's full synthetic. Doesn't matter which brand.
Yep, its just like any other oil. There hasnt been any proof that Honda uses a special additive. And if they did, I would imagine that they would proudly specify that in their manual. And without proof its all specualtion. Maybe someone will do a VOA from their new car oil so we can demystify it for good.. But dark oil doesn't mean that it is bad oil. Dark oil means that it's doing it's job of cleaning, and most oil's cleaning agent activates at a higher temperature causing it to darken. The best way to test oil is by taking a drop or two out with the dipstick. Drop it into a small cup of water.. If it beads up like water on a waxed car, then the lubrication properties are still good. If not, the lubrication is exhausted or there is too much moisture in the oil. Another good tip is to smell the oil. If it smells sweet, then you have a coolant leak. Otherwise, darkened color doesn't mean much.
If you are concerned about the special additive (Moly), yet insist on changing your oil early, then use Havoline. It has the highest Moly content of all oil and has a great additive package.
I'll be changing my oil at 2500 miles with Motorcraft 5-20W Syn Blend. Then run it for 3k miles
before I switch it to Castrol Syn Blend 5-20 for another 3k miles. After that it's full synthetic. Doesn't matter which brand.
i've only gotten oil change with regular oil.. so when u take it in. the first two times u tell them you want to pay more for syn blend? then when u go full synthetic u py more for that or do u buy ur own and have them out that in?
i've only gotten oil change with regular oil.. so when u take it in. the first two times u tell them you want to pay more for syn blend? then when u go full synthetic u py more for that or do u buy ur own and have them out that in?
Learn how to do it yourself. Period. At my dealership they use Castrol GTX. And not all dealers use the same oil. Some dealers use the cheapest oil they can find. Honda does not have a contract with any specific manufacturer like BMW does which has Castrol Syntec imprinted all over the oil cap, etc. So you can expect to not know what they put in your engine at times. Especially if you don't visit the same dealer for each change. On www.bobistheoilguy.com I've read that Honda uses Exxon Superflo 5-20 for new cars being delivered. Who knows...
If you're afraid of spilling oil when taking out the drain plug, purchase the Fram EasyDrain on ebay. For our cars, its the SD-2 model. You replace your drain plug with it and when its time to change oil, you screw the provided rubber tube onto the plug and it pushes the release valve which allows the oil to come out. No mess. That's what I'll be using.
Warm up the engine for about 2 minutes to allow the oil the flow easily. <EDITED> TURN OFF THE ENGINE FIRST </EDITED>. Drain the oil. After the drain, remove the oil filter putting a spill bin underneath since some oil will drain out as you unscrew.. The most important part is make sure the rubber gasket is still on the oil filter. If not, it has come off and is stuck to the engine, take it off. Wipe down old oil off the engine. Lube the new filter's rubber seal with fresh oil.. screw it in by hand until you cant anymore.. then use the wrench to tighten it in another 3/4 full turn. Fill up the oil. Start your engine let your it run for about 2 minutes. Take it off the ramps. Reset the OLM. You're done.
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