General Fit TalkGeneral Discussion on the Honda Fit/Jazz.
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After looking at the price for dealer installed rustproofing (having done this as a young guy starting out, I can say not worth the money!)
The dealer applied rustproofing seems to be mostly a wax base gunk that really does not do anything to prevent the corrosion process from starting in the first place. I was looking for something to stop corrosion on contact and prevent it from starting in the first place! Electrolysis between dissimilar metals can be a car's worst nightmare, as it acts like a battery and will eat away the weaker metal. Since there are lots of dissimular metals in a car, preventing this will be top priority.
Then I started checking all the aftermarket rustproofing available, and other options available. I decided to search and see what the goverment uses on equipment that faces adverse conditions such as by the ocean, on board ships, etc.
I found a product that looks to be well known in the aviation field, and has also been tested extensively by the US. Navy, called ACF-50. My research showed that this product was one of the first of a new wave of anti-corrosion products that came out about 15 years ago, and the studies that I read showed that it is still one of the best, if not the best, on the market.
The product is like a cross between WD-40 and rustproofing! Taken from the website:
"ACF-50 is a state-of-the-art anti-corrosion/lubricating compound that has been specially designed for aviation and aerospace use. It is a clean, clear, non-toxic, ultra-then fluid compound which leaves a non-greasy atmospheric barrier to protect metal surfaces. With a dielectric rating of nearly 40KV, ACF-50 will kill corrosion cells on contact and completely remove the moisture from the metal surface. It actively penetrates into seams, lap joints and beneath rivet heads, expelling moisture and even saltwater. In addition, it can be used on all types of plastics, paints and seals without fear of damage."
The main drawback to this stuff is that it needs to be applied every 2 years, as it will eventually wear off. For me, this is not that big a deal as I have a compressor and a undercoating spray applicator already. This stuff can be sprayed on, dipped, wiped, or brushed on, depending on the application and what is available to you. they also offer a pump up bottle. If you don't have access to this stuff, a $15 pump up sprayer from the hardware store should work also. You may have to try and find one with the thin metal sprayer or modify it to work.
While it is not cheap to buy at around $100 a gallon, it is cheaper than paying to get the car rustproofed, and a gallon should last for at least 2 or 3 applications if it is sprayed on. They say that the application will last for up to 2 years, but I plan on making it an annual ritual on my Fit.
An independant study of several corrosion preventing products were conducted for the Navy by submitting samples to an acid/salt water amosphere for 190 hours. The testing showed that oxidation loss of weight of the test samples were ruduced by approximately 78% compared to the untreat samples. Real world tests show that spraying this stuff inside electronic panels onboard ships controlled corrosion that had been an ongoing complaint.
I plan on spraying everything under the hood, including the engine, trans housing, alternator, fuse box, computers and wiring, etc. I will also spray inside the doors, underneath the whole car including the drivetrain, axle, inside body panels, etc...
If, after a year or so, everything still looks like new , I will know I did not waste my money!
Anybody else ever use this stuff?
Last edited by brdss; 06-20-2006 at 08:07 PM.
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I am impressed. How did you find out about this stuff. Is your background or occupation a factor in your endorsement. Thanx for sharing the info. seems to be helpfull. I had inquired about undercoating my Fit myself.
Where can this stuff be purchased? And also, for the less handy amongst us (that would be me ), are there any automotive places that actually use this for their rustproofing? Please and thank you. I was thinking of going the Ziebart root, but I'm really torn...
I plan on spraying everything under the hood, including the engine, trans housing, alternator, fuse box, computers and wiring, etc. I will also spray inside the doors, underneath the whole car including the drivetrain, axle, inside body panels, etc...
I plan on spraying everything under the hood, including the engine, trans housing, alternator, fuse box, computers and wiring, etc. I will also spray inside the doors, underneath the whole car including the drivetrain, axle, inside body panels, etc...
If, after a year or so, everything still looks like new , I will know I did not waste my money!
Anybody else ever use this stuff?
2days after I got my Fit I made an appt. with a rustproofer and when they asked what make/model of car and I said 2007 Fit they replied "never heard of it, no problem bring it in."
I cancelled as I don't relish someone "practising" on my new car and later having a problem with, say. the el. window motor and Honda telling me the warranty was voided.
So be careful where you spray this stuff so it doesn't come back to bite you. Good luck.
__________________ LX auto A-Silver Dart @ Skinner's
BRDSS. I plan on spraying everything under the hood, including the engine, trans housing, alternator, fuse box, computers and wiring, etc. I will also spray inside the doors, underneath the whole car including the drivetrain, axle, inside body panels, etc... BRDSS Be carefull about what you spray it could turn out to be a nightmare. The trani housing... the alternator would surley be damaged by overspray and if not who whould warrenty a sprayed altenator. Spraying the inside of the doors could pay off in some of the hard core winter areas.... Perhaps what you said in the Quoted paragraph is just a phrase. You know I am going to Kill it do it all. Good luck.
BRDSS. I plan on spraying everything under the hood, including the engine, trans housing, alternator, fuse box, computers and wiring, etc. I will also spray inside the doors, underneath the whole car including the drivetrain, axle, inside body panels, etc... BRDSS Be carefull about what you spray it could turn out to be a nightmare. The trani housing... the alternator would surley be damaged by overspray and if not who whould warrenty a sprayed altenator. Spraying the inside of the doors could pay off in some of the hard core winter areas.... Perhaps what you said in the Quoted paragraph is just a phrase. You know I am going to Kill it do it all. Good luck.
No! This stuff was DESIGNED for compatability with electronics in mind! They actually use it to bring dead motors and switches back to life! The only things that you do not want to spray are friction driven items, like the AC clutch, as this also acts as a thin film lubricant. This stuff does not leave a thick or oily residue all over the place. From what I understand, depending on how thick you put it on, there will be some drips of the excess that will go away after the car is driven a few times. They use it to spray the engine compartment of prop airplanes and helicopters, so I don't think it will cause any problems on a car motor.
Rustblock is a version they sell for automotive. From conversation I have had during my research, it is just repackaged ACF-50
Corrosionblock is the version they sell for marine.
Where can this stuff be purchased? And also, for the less handy amongst us (that would be me ), are there any automotive places that actually use this for their rustproofing? Please and thank you. I was thinking of going the Ziebart root, but I'm really torn...
If you do a google for it, or go to the main website listed in the post above, you can find many places that sell it. I saw several places that will treat airplanes for a few hundred dollars, so doing a fit should not be near that amount!
I am impressed. How did you find out about this stuff. Is your background or occupation a factor in your endorsement. Thanx for sharing the info. seems to be helpfull. I had inquired about undercoating my Fit myself.
It really has nothing to do with my background, other than I used to rustproof cars at a dealership when I was younger and thought that there had to be something better!
The more I thought about it, the more I got to thinking of airplanes, helicopters and navel ships, and started wondering what they did to prevent corrosion in salt air conditions. Once I started researching, and reading about all the different products that had been tested, I found that the good results of this stuff were duplicated by many independent studies. While airplanes are not made of the same materials as cars, the studies I read of testing done where different metals were tested, as well as circuit boards prone to corrosion while put into service tested stable after application, I figured it had to be good enough to help protect my new toy against a little salt in the winter! I made a few calls to some companies that use it as part of annual maintenence, and they had nothing but good things to say as far as how it works.
I do not know why car guys are not using this stuff all over the place. I sis see some motorcycle supply places on the web selling it.
It may not last like the thick stuff they spray on, but if it keeps all the corrosion off my Fit, I don't mind applying it once a year!
No! This stuff was DESIGNED for compatability with electronics in mind! They actually use it to bring dead motors and switches back to life! The only things that you do not want to spray are friction driven items, like the AC clutch, as this also acts as a thin film lubricant. This stuff does not leave a thick or oily residue all over the place. From what I understand, depending on how thick you put it on, there will be some drips of the excess that will go away after the car is driven a few times. They use it to spray the engine compartment of prop airplanes and helicopters, so I don't think it will cause any problems on a car motor.
Rustblock is a version they sell for automotive. From conversation I have had during my research, it is just repackaged ACF-50
Corrosionblock is the version they sell for marine.
Check out this
hxxp://www.learchem.com/images/RB-Web-Brochure.gif
hxxp://www.learchem.com/cbusers.htm
If you do a google for it, or go to the main website listed in the post above, you can find many places that sell it. I saw several places that will treat airplanes for a few hundred dollars, so doing a fit should not be near that amount!
Thank you! I found a place that uses it nearby. I think I will do that instead of Ziebart! Will save me money, too!
This is a cut and paste from another site that gives some hint at the versatility of this spray. The car is not mine, but is from the website:
Some Additional ACF-50 Applications
Thermostats, pressure gauges, heat sensors, micro-electronics, switch gears, relays, electrical manifold systems, junction boxes, fuse panels, swithches, contactors, connectors and pins, motor operated valves, screw terminals, terminal strips, gear train switches, electric motors, windings, solenoids, starters, discharge fans, fan motors, bearings, UPS circuit boards and terminal connections, power modules, cellular phone circuit boards and antennas, telephone switching equipment, circuit breakers, tank batteries,alternators, generators, electrical enclosures, ****yzer housings, start-stop buttons, base radios, remote radios, intercom systems, speakers, central control panels, video monitors, security systems, communication towers, radars, railings, stanchions, copper and aluminum tubing, automatic fire fighting system valves and nozzles, automatic fire sprinker system heads, valve housing cover bolts, winches, gear boxes, sheaves, pully cables, blocks, capstans, cross slides and turrets, micrometers and height gauges, mechanized screens, pliers, wrenches, saw blades, drills, vise threads and guides, battery terminals and cases, drill and lathe chucks, turret bearings, air brake actuator, cables and linkages, clarifier arms, spindles and motor bearings, centrifugal and rotary pump diaphragms, sleeves, shafts, seals, impellers, valves, valve stems, diaphragm springs, intake and exhaust valves, all metal moving parts, engine mounts, levers control arms and linkages, shock absorbers, exhaust manifold studs and nuts, brake adjustment screws, automatic choke, carburator linkages and butterfly, battery cables and terminals, ignition harness, distributor cap, idler pulleys, fans and blowers, bearings in service and shelved, elevator cables, doors, door locks, metallic coupling cards, windows, locks, sliding doors, hinges, crank windows, track assembly bolts, overhead door counter weight springs, window guides, plumbing fixtures, stop cocks, outdoor fixtures, electric signs, airconditioning coils, freon check valves, sweated fittings, clocks, light bulb sockets, bilge pumps, fishing rod reel seat and roller guides, reels, rusty nuts and bolts, bridge and hand-held radios, running lights, depth sounders and fish finders, horn, fuse panels, circuit breakers, firearms, sparkplugs, moisture damaged electronics, tuna towers, trailer lights and springs, bicycles, roller blades, skate boards, RC models, etc.
hxxp://www.corrosion-control.com/Miata310x164.jpg
Here is a picture of my pristine 1990 Mazda Miata. Beginning in June of 1991, I began a scheduled fogging of ACF-50 inside the doors, door frames, engine compartment, under-carriage and rocker panels every 12 months. As a result, this car is pristine with regard to corrosion despite a seven year residence in Hawaii.
STORM SILVER /MT BASE HONDA FIT YEAH ! Best MPG 46.4 She was a beauty 
Well OK !
I was thinking of going the Ziebart root, but I'm really torn...
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