Very nice! Is yours an auto? Also, the tires that come on the Harbor Freight trailers like yours usually say they're only rated for 45 or 55 mph. Have you pulled yours on the interstate? Any trouble with the tires? The reason I ask is because I just bought one of those trailers and am wondering if I'll need to swap out the tires.

 

No mine is a 5 speed.

Yes trailer manual says limit speed to something ridiculous like 45 or 55mph but not for tire concern only. It is stated for the entire trailer same as any U-Haul you can rent are all 55mph limited. I have had mine up to 75mph and cruised at 70mph for hundreds of miles. I generally like to keep speed to 65mph for braking safety though. Trailer pulls rock solid for me and doesn't sway (even when empty). It does take bumps a little rough due to the small diameter bias ply tires, high air pressure and leaf spring suspension.

Tires I keep filled to 60psi and check often. Also keep the wheel bearing well greased. I will be installing Bearing Buddies as soon as I can find the hub size needed.

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Thanks, I figured that was the case with the tires, just wanted to check with someone who had some experience with them.

-Dustin

 

I think that I have seen ads for radial trailer tires, which would probably be a little more reliable at high speeds. But, here in CA and probably on the Interstate highway system across the country, the speed limit for trailers is 55mph.

 

That's interesting. I didn't realize there were lower speed limits for vehicles pulling trailers. I could see doing 65mph on the interstate where the speed limit is 70, but at 55mph I would worry more about someone plowing into me from behind.

-Dustin

 

Well, a Fit pulling a loaded 4' X 8' trailer at 75mph is sure going to get the attention of any alert cop. So you may get to find out what your local highway laws are, and can add to the "Post Your Traffic Tickets" thread in "The Wasteland" forum.

Obeying the 55mph speed limit pretty much restricts you to the slow lane, and that is tiresome as hell.

I do have to say that when I pull trailers, I judge my safe speed by how stable the car feels, even though I know that a blowout of a trailer tire would probably screw up my day. But in pulling trailers at 75mph (when I felt that I could get away with it), I was using a truck, not a Fit.

 

In some states that is the speed limit. Ilinois is one that I can think of right now. Last year they did change the truck / trailer speed limit in some counties of Illinois. Trailers are usually the same speed limit as trucks. Every state is different so read the signs.

 

Wow I had no clue there were speed limits for cars pulling trailers different from cars alone. It certainly wasn't in any of the driver handbooks/tests I took (NC, UT, FL, CO, WA, CA, GA). At least that I remember.

In any case I went on an internet hunt, and guess what: GA has a 55mph limit on cars with trailers! Alabama on the other hand is "must be reasonable and proper." I think Alabama got it right.

link

Great thread by the way. Although I don't think I would have bothered driving in D3 rather than just drive. Let the PCU sort it out. If it were shifting so often it was annoying or I needed engine braking I'd shift down to third or second.

I don't think you can do any harm putting on a transmission cooler. The existing cooling via the car's radiator also serves to keep the fluid warm enough when the transmission isn't generating excessive heat on its own.

 

I live in Upstate South Carolina and just accepted a job in San Diego, California and am about to undertake a similar journey west in my 2011 Fit Sport AT.

A 5x8 uhaul trailer is lined up to hold my queen size mattress and foundation - going in next week to get the hitch installed.

From the discussions here it seems like a transmission cooler is something I should get installed, although I will be driving in winter and am wondering if it is still necessary - especially with the minimal slope profile below:

I used Google earth to generate the elevation profile for the trip:
Average Slope +/- 0.3%
Max Slope: 5.9% (on I8 at El Centro) and -4.1% passing through the Cleveland National Forest



The rest of the areas on the graph are 2% grade max

Edit: rotated to correspond to the elevation graph

 

Having driven the entire span of I-8 from Casa Grande, AZ to San Diego hundreds of times and having towed with my Fit thousands of miles I strongly suggest you change your route. You do not want to deal with those mountains, especially in the winter as snow and ice conditions possible also. Stay on I-10 and take the northern route through Phoenix, exit I-215 at Riverside and then I-15 down to San Diego. This route is ~100 miles longer but well worth it. There is one alert for this route though, high chance for very strong winds on the I-10 starting around Indio and continuing through Palm Springs. Keep your speed way down if you come into that.

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Thanks Silverbullet for sparing me from flying off a cliff on I8

I've adjusted the route with your recommendation which eliminated the scary +/-6% grade. From what's described in this thread the Fit should have no problem negotiating the hills on this route.

Max Slope: 2%, -3.4%

 

This is a great thread!

No one mentioned the brand of hitch that they used?

Any recommendation which hitch fits the FIT best for towing?

Store I went to yesterday said for my 2009 FIT they can get me:

-Reece OR
-Hidden Hitch OR
-Curt OR
-Draw-Tite

Salesman said they are all the same, and fit all the same, and cost all the same, and to just pick my favorite and he will order it?

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Electrical:

When I looked into 4 x 8 trailers at U-haul they told me that I needed an adapter for 15.00 for the trailer lighting--that it will hook through the hatch and when I am done just disconnect it and throw it away.

At the hitch store they said U-haul only sells generics and they will have to cut into my wires to connect it. The hitch store sells a $60 custom FIT adapter that does not require cutting wires and will stay there all the time with an outlet connected to the hitch bar.

Anyone have experience with the electrical aspect of the hitch on the FIT and have recommendations for that?

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Thanks in advance for your opinions on these topics!

 

 

Also for anyone pulling a trailer or thinking about pulling one and wondering what your mpg will be click on my fuelly.com banner below. The past 2-3 months probably 90% of my driving has been done pulling a trailer. You'll see in the data the differences pulling a loaded trailer versus empty. The wind drag with a loaded trailer is the biggest impact. If I have the trailer stake bed sides installed and pulling the trailer empty I'll lose 5mpg versus empty trailer and no sides. I've got as high as 36mpg pulling an empty trailer and down to 24mpg overloaded. Freeway speeds of 70mph (my typical cruising speed with trailer) drops mpg some also but it does so also even with no trailer. The manual Fit is geared low so long steep hills have little impact. I think only once or twice have I ever been slowed due to the hill. And that was a very long very steep climb and even as I was slowed I was still passing other cars.

_

 

Silverbullet, sounds like the the hitch salesman may not be so knowledgeable at all after 4 years of selling hitches at this shop (he says) if the Curt requires drilling an extra hole to mount. To me, that's a significant difference if the other hitches do not require an extra hole. The only difference he pointed out on the Curt when I pressed him as to why he prefers that brand over the others is that he says Curt puts an extra coat of shiny rust proof paint on and the hitch lasts longer and looks better and more professional.

The salesman did comment that none of the hitches come with a ball mount anymore--he says those days are over? He says that he has a box of dozens of mounts and accessories that bike rack only customers did not want that he will throw in for free if I buy a hitch from him.

Thanks for the link to the plug and play wiring kit from etrailer. Looks great. The only thing I am not clear is how I would get this wiring from the inside connectors to under the bumper cover and attached to the hitch externally for a permanent installation instead of sticking out from the rear gate? I am thinking that this plug and play was meant to be stowed inside the vehicle when not in use and that you just extend the wire outside the rear gate when you need it.

Thanks for taking the time.

 

I just installed the below kit from E-trailer.
Curt T-Connector Vehicle Wiring Harness with 4-Pole Flat Trailer Connector Curt Custom Fit Vehicle Wiring C56011
Very easy installation, plug and play as advertised.
As for getting the plug out permanently, I am not sure how you would do that w/out compromising the underbody.
However, if someone has a solution, I would welcome it so i am not having to put wires under hatch every time I trailer.

 

I would not eliminate the Curt hitch from consideration. The instructions say it requires enlarging one hole in the frame rail on the drivers side, but others have reported that they could use a nearby existing hole to fish the mounting bolt through - eliminating the need for any drilling or enlarging. The center mount under the spare tire well and the passenger side mount on the frame rail use existing holes (note: the fit really doesn't have a "frame", but the structural members look like frame rails so that's what I'm calling them).

I have a Curt hitch myself and think it's more solid due to the third mounting point in the center, especially for vertical loading on the hitch. I also think it gives the cleanest installed look because you don't have the funny looking part that loops around the tail pipe like the other brands.

 

I installed a Drawtite hitch on my 2013 Fit today. Took just under 1 hour, doing it my self. It would be a lot easier with a helper to help lift and hold in position, to get the nuts on.
The fender well tab doesn't have to be trimmed. Just slide the hitch under it.
4 bolt "snakes" to get the carriage bolts in the holes, are a great help, if you leave them on, while lifting the hitch over the bolts. It keeps yo from pushing the bolts into the frame, where they would be a nightmare to get out!
Seems to be a well made hitch. Got it on Craigs List for $50. Had all the bolts. Just had to make 4 bolt snakes.

 

The Curt Wiring looks good. Thanks for pointing that one out.

 

Ultrawolf--you are definitely selling me on the Curt. Great points about the vertical. Thanks for taking the time. The hitch shop was pushing the Curt, but the 4-year hitch salesman was not as articulate as you are on why.